[nlancaster]

Sounds like a good plan widgit.

[widgitmaster]

Thanks nlancaster !!

Here is what I have so far:
Last night I entered all the info int CAD, and decided to put the plate on the inside of the box. So I made a little mounting fixture for the rotary-table, and drilled corresponding holes in a scrap block of Delrin. Then I put the rotary table on the mill, and dialed in the center. Then I centered the fixture, and bolted it down. Now I can hold the Delrin in the center of the table with two 1/4-20 screws. Next I calculated the offset, and used a .500" diam 2-flute endmill to cut the OD. Then I milled the smaller diameter (same as hole in box), and drilled 8x holes for #6-32 threads. But before I tap the holes, I need to transfer the locations to the box.
To do this, I used a parallel wit holes, and two 1/4-20 studs. Then I placed two gauge pins in opposite holes, so I could use a level to align the part. Now I can tighten the clamp, and drill a spot into the box. Not all the way through, as all those hot steel chips would enlarge the holes in the Delrin! So I removed the clamp, and finished drilling the 8x holes. Then I tapped the Delrin holes, and checked for fit & alignment.
Now that the mounting holes are done, I can finish the Delrin. So I put the part in the lathe's soft jaws, so I could make the face and step depth equal to the box's wall thickness. Then I deburred all the holes, and put the vise back on the mill. Using the little 3-jaw chuck, I finished milling out the pockets for the USB & DB-25 connectors.

With the data connection plate finished, I started re-installing all the circuit boards in the Hoffman box. They were removed to keep all the steel chips from shorting out all their circuits! Before I re-mount the G203V motherboard, I decided it's a good time to put a little Thermal Grease on n the heat sinks! Now I have to wait on the DB-25 ribbon cables, before I can use the machine again! So I decided to start on the digital thermometer's mount in front of the spindle!

[widgitmaster]

Today I removed the wire-block from the Z-Slide, then I remove the Z-Slide! The wire block needs to be modified for a 2nd little plug, and have more room inside for wires! So I used a ball-endmill to open the pocket then drilled two more holes. In order to mount the digital thermostat on the front, I need to give it a 12VDC supply line. So I have to drill a hole in the upper web of the z-slide. But first I made a trip to RadioShack to get a 12VDC line splice or plug & socket. This way I can disconnect the thermostat if the spindle ever needs service!

The drilled hole needs to be around 5/8" diam for the plug to pass through, so I had to make a couple drill extensions. Using a 3/8" bar, I put a 1/4" drill in the end with a setscrew, this gave me a pilot hole. Then I modified a 5/8" drill by turning the end to 3/8" diam. Next I put a hole and a setscrew in the end of a 5/8 bar. Then I ut them n the mill's spindle, and moved to location.

I had to run the spindle slow, and feed it even slower to avoid deflection from the weld in the corner. Once the drill made full contact, I could increase the feed & speed! All that's left is to deburr & wipe off the oil, then i could re-assemble the z-axis. Lastly, I put a small plug on the end of a cable, and snaked it through the wire track to the top box. Then I connected it to the 12VDC on the barrier strip.

The black Delrin pieces I had in stock were too small to make the front bezel which will hold the thermostat, so I ordered another piece from McMaster.

[widgitmaster]

While I'm waiting for the cables & stuff to arrive, I decided to make the little Delrin cradle to hold the Z-Touch Plate.
Starting with a 3" diam bar, I cut off two 1" long pieces. Then I put them in the lathe to turn the OD, and face both sides. Next I placed the 3-jaw chuck in the vise, and dialed in the center. Now I can drill & counter bore the four holes in each block. Next I removed the chuck, and put a scrap aluminum plate in the vise. Again I set zero in the center of the plate, and drilled & tapped four #10-32 holes at the same coordinates.

After deburring the Delrin parts, I mounted one to the aluminum plate. Now I have to mill a .75" radius in each part. To do this, I'll use a 1.5" diam 2-flute endmill. The center of the endmill will be offset .25" from the center of the Delrin part.

Now for the fun stuff! I need to mill an undercut with a 1" radius, so I'll use 2" diam milling cutter. But a conventional arbor has a screw & washer on the end, and there is no clearance in my design for it! So I turned up an arbor in the lathe, and will silver solder the cutter to the arbor. Now this would no be strong enough for cutting metal, but its perfect for Delrin! Next I rolled out the tanks, and put a fire brick on the mill table. But before I can fire-up the torch, I need to remove all the Delrin chips from the area. Delrin is extremely flammable, and burns like alcohol which makes the flame invisible! Now I can heat up the arbor, until the white flux turns clear, then I can add the solder!

While I'm waiting for the cutter to cool down, I'll mill the flat across the side of the parts. Now that the cutter has cooled off, I placed it in the spindle and set z-zero using a gauge block. By lowering the knee until the cutters (running in reverse) just contacted the gauge block, I set the knee dial to zero. Then I raise the knee .125, and made the 1st pass with the cutter. Using a gauge pin to check the width of the slot, I calculated a knee drop of .205" for the 2nd pass. Then I repeated the process on the 2nd block. Now I can mill a 6mm wide slot using a ball endmill, as the wire needs a place to go,

After deburring the parts, I used a transfer punch to mark the location of the 1st hole in the side box. Then I drilled & tapped the hole #10-32, and screwed the part to the side of the box. Using a level, I positioned the part and tightened the screw. Next I used a drill to mark the locations of the next three holes. Then I removed the part, so i could finish drilling & tapping the holes. I had to remove all the access covers from the box, so I could move the wires out of the way, and vacuum out the chips when finished.

The z-axis touch-off plate is now finished & mounted on the side of the gantry, the coiled cord will reach 6-feet into the work area for easy tool setting!

[Alan XR8]

Work if Art Widgit. A1 all the way. Like the level.


Alan

[widgitmaster]

I had the machine & spindle running fine for about two hours, then the inverter gave me an error message!

Has anyone seen this before?
I cannot find it in the 60-page manual (chair)

[tahustvedt]

I read about that a few days ago. Here's a thread about it: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/spindl...r-code-dl.html

[widgitmaster]

Oh well, this one looks like it's smoked!
So I've placed a bid on another inverter, hope I have better luck with this one!

[ger21]

According to that other thread, it may be a $5 fix to solder in that chip.

[Miata2k]

Oh well, this one looks like it's smoked!
So I've placed a bid on another inverter, hope I have better luck with this one!

I'm pretty sure this drive would work for you, and be a better drive.. Just not sure what you want to spend, and if you want to order from Canada.
ABB AC Drive Cat ACS150 01U 09A8 2 100 New in Box | eBay

I looked up the specs for the drive from this PDF..


We use the ABB drive here at work, mostly the ACS320 and the ACH550 series drives. The support is great and they build a solid product. I have a single phase ACS320 at my desk now that I'm using for development, I was hoping to use it for my spindle someday, but it is only rated for a 1/2 HP motor.

-C

[Vice Comp]

Hey Widgit,

I've been following you build thread and you have done such an amazing precision job. Very envious.

I'm sure you have checked but just in case you haven't, don't forget that the DL fault is associated with a short on the output to the spindle. Have you checked the continuity of your control cable. It maybe just a broken/ shorted wire. I have had this before as I was not of the opinion that hanging and untwisting and laying all cables flat and separated in a drag chain was necessary. I have since changed that opinion. I ended up replacing every cable due to pigtailing.


The last 20% is always the hardest but the most rewarding.

Nick

[CNCMAN172]

Widget you should disconnect the spindle and take a ohm meter and make sure no two legs of the spindle motor are shorted. If the motor checks out good you could order the defective device from digikey or mouser and have you electronics friend change the part. I have seen some people who got duds from hunaghang sp? And many of them spent another $50 and got a Toshiba or other name VFD.

Russ

[widgitmaster]

This evening I removed the VFD, and dismantled the outer casing. Now I have no idea what I'm looking for, but as suggested I used an Ohm-meter to test for shorts. There is no continuity between any of the leads on the suspected component, and the resistance of the motor winding's is low (1-1.5) and equal. The ohm reading was compared to a new 1.5Kw spindle, and is also equal. The VFD cable has no shorts either!

Also, I won the replacement Inverter!

[mactec54]

I had the machine & spindle running fine for about two hours, then the inverter gave me an error message!

Has anyone seen this before?
I cannot find it in the 60-page manual

Did this happen after a sudden stop of the spindle, it is important when setting these VFD's up that you have as long a ramp down setting of the spindle as you can,they are very weak in the electronics ( IGBT) area, there may be some zener diodes affected as well, most times there are, when one of the IGBT's get's zapped

A braking resistor will help if you want to stop the spindle fast, & will help the IGBT from getting Zapped from the regenerative voltage feedback, most VFD's can handle this to a point were they will just fault out, are fine after a reset

PD014 Accel 10 plus
PD015 Deccl 12 plus
PD011=120 Minimum Hz setting

[widgitmaster]

Did this happen after a sudden stop of the spindle, it is important when setting these VFD's up that you have as long a ramp down setting of the spindle as you can,they are very weak in the electronics ( IGBT) area, there may be some zener diodes affected as well, most times there are, when one of the IGBT's get's zapped

A braking resistor will help if you want to stop the spindle fast, & will help the IGBT from getting Zapped from the regenerative voltage feedback, most VFD's can handle this to a point were they will just fault out, are fine after a reset

PD014 Accel 10 plus
PD015 Deccl 12 plus
PD011=120 Minimum Hz setting

Hi Mac,
Actually, I accidentally pulled plug on the coolant pump so I hit the e-stop and plugged it in! I don't know how long it was unplugged, but the spindle was hot!
So I will be re-wiring the pump for 220-VAC and put a twist lock plug on the end! The pump will go on when the I throw the switch on the 220 fuse box, this way it's on even when the spindle is not!

Also, the ramp-down settings were 000, this number will be increased.
I noticed in the VFD manual that there are electronic brake setting as well, so I will attempt to get the inverter configured to ramp down to a point where the brake can be applied!

The Tachometer I have is mechanical, and only goes up to 3000 RPM, do I need to get one of those IR tach's?

Widgit

[mactec54]

widgitmaster

Hi Widgit, It might be a good idea to use PD26 (stopping Mode) if this is set to 0 it will be using the PD015 setting, set this to (1) then the spindle will coast to a stop, so PD26=1

unless you have a need to stop the spindle faster, then you will have to set the PD015 only but give it a big number no less than 12

Do not try any DC Braking with this drive, without the addition of a Breaking resistor

Having the E-Stop turn the VFD off is a Bad thing, VFD's do not like being turned off this way, for the E-stop circuit you need only to turn off the control circuit

The IGBT's Etc are on the back side of the board, so you have to remove the Board to see them

As for a Tachometer I'm not sure why you have a need for it, I find these kind of things not needed, Mach should be able to give you a good enough readout, once you have it all setup

[kuroguy]

...and the VFD should also know the speed of the spindle without the use of a tach.

[widgitmaster]

Thanks Guys!
I have been finishing up all the little details, and the list is down to 2 or 3 items left!
The replacement Inverter is being shipped from NJ, so it will be a few more days. The tachometer I bought is also on its way! Now I may not need it, but for everything I've read, the term calibrate is always in context.

So far today, I have made the Delrin plates to mount the digital thermometer. The plates cover the opening in the z-slide, so all the wires and the hose clamp attaching the probe to the side of the spindle are hidden! They also create a pocket which will retain the heat and give a more accurate temperature reading!
Also, I have mounted another 4"x4" electrical box for the twist-lock plug on the pump. Now I wanted to wire the pump for 220-VAC, but the cooling fan is 110-VAC. so I left it alone. Didn't feel like replacing the 3-wire cable with a 4-wire!

The two 15-foot DB-25 cables arrived today, so all I'm missing is the two DB-25 ribbon cables and the dual printer PCI card for the PC!
If anyone of you guys with a pickup truck wants to drop off a couple 3/4" sheets of MDF, I'll gladly pay for it! (wishful thinking!)
Widgit

[brcase]

If anyone of you guys with a pickup truck wants to drop off a couple 3/4" sheets of MDF, I'll gladly pay for it! (wishful thinking!)
Widgit

If I didn't live 2300 miles away, I would do it just to see this beautiful machine in person! I started following this build a few months ago, and I check your progress everyday, like an addiction! You have done an amazing job! BRC

[widgitmaster]

If I didn't live 2300 miles away, I would do it just to see this beautiful machine in person! I started following this build a few months ago, and I check your progress everyday, like an addiction! You have done an amazing job! BRC

Thanks for the kind words!