[joecnc2006]

A Word of causion, Wear safety goggle when using a dremel, I got a metal shaving in my left eye when i was cutting off the Bolts for the Z Axis, and after trying a couple of eye wash kits from walgreens and waiting to see it it would come out i ended up going to the med clinic where they say a metal shaving in the clear portion of my eye with a small rust ring aroung it. They used an eye scraper and got most of it out, so after 150.00 later i am typing this with one blurry eye, should be cleared up in a couple of days.

Joe

[sdantonio]

Joe,

Your a very lucky man. Be thankful you got away with only $150 and a clean healthy eye. One of my cousins was a machinest and got a metal shaving in his eye. He was told because of the location they couldn't take it out. He went prograssively blind in that eye, and if that wasn't enough, it effected the other optic nerve till he is now legally blind in both eyes. He can still see shadows and stuff.

Always wear your safety stuff.

Steven

[Fodder1]

Hi all.

Joe,

I know all about eye protection. Before I got into computers and addicted to, then wasted a lot omf money training in. (MCSE, NT4, CCNA, CCNP ETC) i worked in factories, welding etc (yea i can weld mig, tig, arc).

[long boring story]

But because i was young and stupid i didint wear eye protection most of the time. Now i have a permenate 'squigle' burned into the clear part of my eye. Luckly it is off to one side & out of most of my vision. (plus serveral others oin the coloured and white part)

It does become annoying when you get tied. cos for some reason i "see" it or notice it and my brain (small one it is) automaticlly then looks at it and tries to follow it. Which allways makes me laugh cos i ask myself everytime why is that thing moving. THis is slap my head (doh)

[/long boring stoy]

So I now allways where eye protection.

CH

[eqreservoir]

Shop Notes magazine has a two page article (pgs 22 & 23) called "top-notch results with MDF'. If you don't take this one you should stop by a magazine shop and take a quick glance. I think it is a very good article and it gives some good insights to improving MDF projects.

[posix]

joe don't throw away those rusty old pipes! they are actually stainless, you just can't see it right now...

just had to...

I had a "near-miss" today myself. didn't even know I was that quick but a wood chip flew right towards my eye. everything else after that is a blur, but my neck is real sore now... I was afraid I was going to topple the machine over and the router might start doing some REAL damage at 10krpm but luckilly my spine decided to jolt me in the opposite direction of the machine. and the REALLY REALLY REEEAAALLLYYY worrying part is that I've got the stupid goggles in my toolkit!

[AMorgan]

joe don't throw away those rusty old pipes! they are actually stainless, you just can't see it right now...

just had to...

I had a "near-miss" today myself. didn't even know I was that quick but a wood chip flew right towards my eye. everything else after that is a blur, but my neck is real sore now... I was afraid I was going to topple the machine over and the router might start doing some REAL damage at 10krpm but luckilly my spine decided to jolt me in the opposite direction of the machine. and the REALLY REALLY REEEAAALLLYYY worrying part is that I've got the stupid goggles in my toolkit!

Dobar dan, Posix, you are a very lucky guy.

Stay safe

Steve

[Madclicker]

.............. and the REALLY REALLY REEEAAALLLYYY worrying part is that I've got the stupid goggles in my toolkit!

As my brother would say, "At least your toolkit won't lose an eye!".

[posix]

As my brother would say, "At least your toolkit won't lose an eye!".

well, there's an angle

[joecnc2006]

Well I'm embarresed to say I made a mistake in my New Model 2006, I had put the bottom torsion box on 180° in the wrong direction if you look at the original pictures of the assembly and the original e-drawing you will noticed the Working bed in not centered with the gantry, you can kinda line it up with the ribs, in doing this it made me manufacture the CNC End Pieces Incorectly when measureing them in solid works, I have corrected it and will post the new E-Drawing reflecting it, I hope this does not cause anyone any problems (I guess everyone makes a mistake now and then. I am currently cutting my new end pieces and finishing the machine.

When I redesigned the machine to be a lighter version it was like starting all over again, but this will work out great.

Antone who wants the New DWG files I imported into Solid works just let me know by e-mail and i will send it to you.

joecnc2006 (at) yahoo.com

thanks, Joe

[joecnc2006]

Here is the New E-drawing

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chev..._2006_R-2.EASM

Joe

[aggie_67]

Have you considered belleville washers to keep a constant force on your skate bearning slides. Have used them in industry to keep a constant force on bolts, kind of like having a compression spring under each nut but a more compact arrangement. Can vary the force by the number of washers used,

[joecnc2006]

thought i would empty my camera out and post some build pictures.

1st ones are of the bearing blocks and motor mount for the Z Axis, notice the bearings are turned inward this way i will have double 1/2"-10 acme nuts on the inside top and bottomwhich will serve the same purpose as the Y axis and X axis on the outside to hold the lead screw in place and take load from motors. (4) 1/4"-20 x 2.5" bolt was used through the assembly and bolts into the motor mount walls.

2nd set is the Y Asix bearing blocks and motor mount with bearings facing outward.

[joecnc2006]

Have you considered belleville washers to keep a constant force on your skate bearning slides. Have used them in industry to keep a constant force on bolts, kind of like having a compression spring under each nut but a more compact arrangement. Can vary the force by the number of washers used,

I have not tried them

[aggie_67]

If I have followed your posts it appears you started with 3/4" drill rod for the Z axis as you were going to use bushings. The final version went to skate bearings for the Z; any problems changing from drill rod back to pipe (~ 3/4")

You have asked the question several time how much should I charge for a kit. Was really amazed by the reply or lack of you received. My recommendation is to ignor the do it real cheap (free) or must consider freight, etc. Making kits for other's is not a hobby, you have gone beyond everones expectation in the plans you offer - other charge $25+ for a lot, lot worst packages! It should be worth your time, pay for machine wear and tear, etc. If I were doing it I would charge between $35 and $50 per hr. of routing time. This time would start when you started the computer until the parts were stacked in a box for shipping. Then I would charge $10-$15 hr for the assoc tasks like shipping, picking up material, etc. If you were feeling really generous you could take time to route 2 kits and divide by 2. Wouldn't really worry about shipping as even in a kit don't think it is feasible to ship. People would drive a couple of hrs to pick up which would open your market to Houston and Dallas-Fort Worth (should be great market as there is a lot of tool and die maker type there in the aircraft industry.

[joecnc2006]

If I have followed your posts it appears you started with 3/4" drill rod for the Z axis as you were going to use bushings. The final version went to skate bearings for the Z; any problems changing from drill rod back to pipe (~ 3/4")

You have asked the question several time how much should I charge for a kit. Was really amazed by the reply or lack of you received. My recommendation is to ignor the do it real cheap (free) or must consider freight, etc. Making kits for other's is not a hobby, you have gone beyond everones expectation in the plans you offer - other charge $25+ for a lot, lot worst packages! It should be worth your time, pay for machine wear and tear, etc. If I were doing it I would charge between $35 and $50 per hr. of routing time. This time would start when you started the computer until the parts were stacked in a box for shipping. Then I would charge $10-$15 hr for the assoc tasks like shipping, picking up material, etc. If you were feeling really generous you could take time to route 2 kits and divide by 2. Wouldn't really worry about shipping as even in a kit don't think it is feasible to ship. People would drive a couple of hrs to pick up which would open your market to Houston and Dallas-Fort Worth (should be great market as there is a lot of tool and die maker type there in the aircraft industry.

you could use pipe if you like the OD of drill rod is 3/4" which is the ID of the pipe, so you would need to reduce the size of pipe.

thanks for the kind words, I would think that when people start to make this machine them selves they start to relize how much time and work it does take to make a good machine. I will take your recomendations into consideration.

Thanks, Joe

[Wolfspaw]

Here is the New E-drawing

http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chev..._2006_R-2.EASM

Joe

Joe:

I downloaded the above edrawing. It appears that the X-axis torsion box is not perpendicular to the gantry. Check a side view and let me know if you are seeing the same thing.

Thanks,

Wolfspaw

[joecnc2006]

Joe:

I downloaded the above edrawing. It appears that the X-axis torsion box is not perpendicular to the gantry. Check a side view and let me know if you are seeing the same thing.

Thanks,

Wolfspaw

Yes you were right, i must have deleted the parallel mate in solidworks, i have it corrected and you can download it now.

Thanks, Joe

[litris]

As I can print with my printer the pieces using Edrawings?

Saludos.

[joecnc2006]

As I can print with my printer the pieces using Edrawings?

Saludos.

you can not print individual pieces with e-drawings.

[litris]

As I can make it?
Do you have a pdf like Jgro?

Thanks
PD:I want to begin to already build the router CNC!!! :frown: