[CNC-Dude]

This weekend my flood coolant problem went from annoying to unacceptable. I have many ideas on how to solve this problem and I know that Tormach sells the mighty enclosure which not only looks gorgeous, but it is also not prohibitely expensive. In my case, however, since I plan on moving within the year the enclosure is really not an option.

I am interested in seeing what others have done. I know this has been a mighty problem since day 1. Is there a repository of solutions out there? I am looking for inspiration so that I can implement something as quick as possible with not too large a ticket cost. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

[cordvision]

Simple but pretty effective. Made it from plexiglass which cracked pretty quickly. Next time I would choose Lexan (PC). Not advisable if you have back issues because it has a good amount of weight and you will have to lift it off the machine every time you want to access your part. However, it is possible to change tools from the side without taking the shield off.


Attachment 268054

[WOTDesigns]

My first two enclosures were wood hung from my open rafters, cheap conduit and some 90* elbows, conduit clamps to hold the conduit to the wood, shower curtain, and curtain rings. Total cost I think was around $100.

When I moved into my current shop the 14' ceilings made that impossible so I bought a couple 20' sticks of 1" x 1" steel angle (the kind with no radius on the inside corner). Maybe $100. Ordered a 10 pack of white corrugated plastic (Coroplast) from HomeDepot ($110), and some stainless SHCS. Put a vertical up from each corner and used 2 SHCS, washers and nuts on each face to hold it to the wings. Put horizontals from side to side and front to back. I made it about 48" tall and left an extra foot hanging off the front of the side angles so I could place a 3/4" conduit across for the shower curtain and adjust its position forward and backwards easily if needed. Then I cut the coroplast to fit all the openings on the frame. Took one afternoon to measure, cut and paint everything and another to bolt it all together.

Worked perfectly. I can do pull ups from the frame (I'm 210lbs), the white walls reflect the light from the two 4' lights clamped to the top and lighten everything up, and I can use the garden hose from the 3/4 hp pump to wash chips off the walls easily. I have posted pictures several times, but if you ask I will find them again.

For more safety I was planning on eventually adding horizontals on the bottom sides sticking out towards me, putting a bar from one to the other an inch higher than the stand front lip, then cutting some 3/16 AL plates to match the profile (triangular with one side against the enclosure, one corner at the top and one edge going up to the new higher bar), mount them to the front enclosure wall for supports. Lay a Thin metal sheet over, clamp to the bar, bend down over the front lip and that would create an extension off the front to accommodate the vises sticking out. Then I could add a matching bar across the top, install some drawer slides and make doors pretty easily. Replacing the coroplast with a stronger material would be easy as well.

[popspipes]

This weekend my flood coolant problem went from annoying to unacceptable. I have many ideas on how to solve this problem and I know that Tormach sells the mighty enclosure which not only looks gorgeous, but it is also not prohibitely expensive. In my case, however, since I plan on moving within the year the enclosure is really not an option.

I am interested in seeing what others have done. I know this has been a mighty problem since day 1. Is there a repository of solutions out there? I am looking for inspiration so that I can implement something as quick as possible with not too large a ticket cost. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

I have worked on my chip/coolant collection kind of since day one, I can contain all the coolant and the chips except for face milling, a few of those get away...

I have a spindle shield thats still a project in work, a larger front shield made from lexan, table drains to keep the coolant off the bottom of the stand etc. I keep 99% of my chips on the table. It works for me, and really makes cleanup easier.

I will take a few pics if your interested, it does work but is far from a perfect design thats for sure.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

If you want cheap, easy, and very effective, use Coroplast. It's basically like corrugated cardboard, except made with polyethylene instead of paper. It's cheap ($110 for 10 4' x 8' sheets from Home Depot), resistant to nearly all fluids, and very easy to work with. It took me about two hours, and less than $50 to make an enclosure that works perfectly, using a shower curtain "door" for access. I eventually tossed the shower curtain, and put in a pair of 2' x 4' sliding Lexan doors. I built the enclosure by just bending the Coroplast, and screwing the panels together with 8-32 screws, nuts and flat washers. I can remove the whole thing from the machine in under 10 minutes. For under $100, you can buy 15mm 8020-style extrusions from Misumi and make a metal frame, with the Coroplast panels slipped into the grooves in the extrusions.

Regards,
Ray L.

[wildwhl]

You might consider using 1/2" EMT electrical conduit. Relatively cheap, strong, easy to bend (have a bender, but you don't need one really), easy to cut, easy to put T's in etc. I've a pair of 4' florescent lights mounted above the mill with this method. Mine had an 80/20 enclosure on it when I bought it but has several issues so I will redo it this spring. Leaks are the biggest problem - but it works well. You could bend up a quick frame, mount it, and hang a shower curtain.

WW

[adamvs]

I use the 'shower curtain' method. This is some aluminum channel from the hardware store and 1/16" vinyl sheeting, from the local TAP plastics - you do need to drill and tap some holes in the motor shroud. I have an opening on the left side, so you can get to tools. When you open the door, this is all swung away, so you can change tools without any problem. For about $15 this works really well, even with a fly cutter ( a notorious mess maker ). Attachment 268056Attachment 268058

[CadRhino]

I had the same experience and so last weekend I threw together a curtain hanger on the fly. I had a bar bender I bought from Northern tool for $79, some 7/8" tubing lying around and bought my wife some new curtains and used our old ones.
It cost me less than $50 to make and I really like it. Just used it for 9 hours of constant use and the only leaks I had were from the little hole in the bottom of the tray where the silver coolant line runs through. I need to plug that up with silicone or something.
Anyway, I mounted the pipe to some 3/4" bolts that I welded to some Stanley door hinges. These mount to an angle bar that I bolted to the back splash shield.
I really love this setup. It allows me to move my 4th axis in and out by just taking a pipe section off. It also allows me to hang long pieces off the front and side by just draping the curtain over or moving it.
Good luck with your solution.
-Nathan

[keen]

Hi - I build an enclosure for my second Tormach - but I have a much simpler solution on my first - Which has advantages. I am not sure if I will stay with this design or change it to an enclosure. see pics.

Keen

[LRF]

I built a shower curtain enclosure, making the frame from 1" PVC pipe and fitting (just stuck together no glue or screws) and hung the curtains from it. Use the good heavy duty ones. Been using it for 2 years and solved the issue. I machine with full flood coolant.

Also just a note to those using poly-carbonate sheet (Also known as PC or Lexan) it will kraze and degrade in the presents of hydrocarbons as in oil and some coolants. Acrylic is more resistant.

[RussMachine]

I bought a 4' x 8' sheet of 16 Gauge Aluminum.
Cut it into 2' tall strips to fit around the chip pan..
Then bought nuts, bolts, and 90 degree angle brackets, and bolted everything together.
...

[WOTDesigns]

I bought a 4' x 8' sheet of 16 Gauge Aluminum.
Cut it into 2' tall strips to fit around the chip pan..
Then bought nuts, bolts, and 90 degree angle brackets, and bolted everything together.
...

That's awfully Purdy

Brian
WOT Designs

[CNC-Dude]

WOW Group, this is tremendous information. I will have to document what I end up implementing, but the inspiration is definitely there. Now it is a matter of choosing a style and getting to work. Thanks for taking the time to detail your solution!

[LRF]

[quapman]

Mooser has my vote for best compact enclosure:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/tormac...ant-guard.html

[cordvision]

Just wanted to add something... While shower curtain designs are cheap and effective in containing coolant and chips, they don't protect you very well from "flying workpieces" or other debris. I'm often sitting on a table in front of the CNC mill, so my head is at the same level as the cnc table. I would not feel comfortable sitting there while milling (especially using the super fly cutter) without having a shield protecting me. The shield even allows me to take off my safety glasses (I used to leave them on whenever the machine was running before I built the plexiglas shield). I know that in theory, you shouldn't have a work piece flying of the table, but it can. I had a small piece of aluminum once hitting the shop wall so hard it left a permanent imprint. I was lucky not to have gotten hit in the face.

[CadRhino]

If you ever watch any of Artisan Dice's videos, he solved that problem by occasionally wearing a full- face motorcycle helmet around his shop (!)

Just wanted to add something... While shower curtain designs are cheap and effective in containing coolant and chips, they don't protect you very well from "flying workpieces" or other debris. I'm often sitting on a table in front of the CNC mill, so my head is at the same level as the cnc table. I would not feel comfortable sitting there while milling (especially using the super fly cutter) without having a shield protecting me. The shield even allows me to take off my safety glasses (I used to leave them on whenever the machine was running before I built the plexiglas shield). I know that in theory, you shouldn't have a work piece flying of the table, but it can. I had a small piece of aluminum once hitting the shop wall so hard it left a permanent imprint. I was lucky not to have gotten hit in the face.

[pickled]

I use a multi-tasking approach with my enclosure design. I use a PETG sliding door in the front (0.25" thick) supported by rigid framework to help limit the debris field if a serious incident were to occur. This marries with additional framework along the sides and back that are skinned with 14 mil welding curtain (see below) extending 4 feet in elevation from the table. It works great at containing chips and coolant and I haven't found that the welding curtain nor PETG are incompatible with cutting fluids, lubricants, penetrating oils...etc. As an added bonus my TIG and MIG welding area share the same material to keep things isolated. If I have 10 feet of extra curtain laying around I don't feel like I have wasted the money. In my mind I can't justify a "pretty" high dollar enclosure (that still isn't an isolated atmosphere for venting) based on the parts that I produce and need for accommodating 6 and 7 feet long sections of box tubing being pocketed routinely. I don't let customers come and "play" at my shop and marvel over my "shiny and clean" equipment LOL.
600 | John Tillman Co.

[LeeWay]

Another shower curtain with minimal privacy on my old mill. You can't get much cheaper than this. I used rare earth magnets inside to secure the bottom of the side curtains.

[pickled]

Another shower curtain with minimal privacy on my old mill. You can't get much cheaper than this. I used rare earth magnets inside to secure the bottom of the side curtains.

I dig it. Keeping it simple and effective.