[JJDennon]

Hello machinists,

I have a really basic question on how travel is calculated on the X and Y axis. So if you travels are 8" on the X and 4" on the Y, does this mean that the machine can move +/- 4" on the X and +/- 2" on the Y?

Does this mean that the work envelope is then 8" x 4"?

JJ

[ger21]

You can set the 0,0 position anywhere you want. This would determine the travels in the + and - directions.

[JJDennon]

You can set the 0,0 position anywhere you want. This would determine the travels in the + and - directions.

I am just trying to figure out the largest part I could cut. So given my sample travels, what would my work envelope size be? In other words, what is the operating work area I would have without having to adjust the work piece?

JJ

[ger21]

8x4, but that depends on the tool size, and if you need to cut around the perimeter of the part or not.

[JJDennon]

Thanks this pretty much answers my question.

[Fastest1]

I am not a machinist and Ger was correct but what I will sometimes do is lie to the machine about where "Part" z0 (top of part in my case) is, then I run the code where the tool never touches the part and make sure the tool will cover all areas and not run against a stop or limit switch. Probably not a correct technique, but you dont break any tooling that way and you dont waste material finding out after 3000 lines of code or more. Also since you are not cutting, generally you can up the feedrate override to ridiculously high settings and do the code in fractions of the time.

[pete from TN]

When I think I am close to my limits with a part I sometimes will put a little crosshair mark in the exact middle of my material with my calipers or a ruler or something. Then I will load the program and load the material on the machine and using the toolpath display I will center my x and y kinda close on my crosshair with a spot drill or something like that and then I will jog the machine around to each extreme looking at the toolpath display to see if I can get beyond and then figure a little more for the width of the cutter. I do often get it pretty good this way and it does not require any wasted material or running thru the program cutting air.

I see you are posting about the Taig mill yet you are concerned about the available travels. Again I am not sure what you intend to make with your mill but you might be better off with a nice quality table router. Some of these are VERY capable and can cut aluminum with light cuts at high feedrates about as fast as the taig can yet they would have larger travels and also would probably be cheaper. There is a fellow named Microcarve on the router forum of the Zone that makes some VERY cool looking small footprint routers from MDF and ground rods that does some impressive cuts in aluminum and will also make some pretty incredible resolution lithophanes as well. Also the Widgetmaster makes some from aluminum and steel that are equally impressive. It is really about what you intend to cut. Steel would require a mill really but aluminum and plastic can easily be cut on a rigid CNC router and at much higher feedrates. Just something to consider... peace

Pete