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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    83

    Spindle material

    Hi ppl

    I am in the process of making a spindle for the Mini mill head, I am going for a ISO 30 taper spindle but was wondering what type of material would you guyz recommend...my current thoughts were these;

    -Stainless 416
    -Low carbon Steel 1018
    -Medium carbon (stressproof) 1144

    Anyone got any ideas on this?

    thx

    H3ndrix

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    I would tend to stay away from stainless, because of the expansion rate being a bit higher, and the heat transfer capacity being less than carbon steel.

    Stressproof is nice to machine, but is pretty soft.

    I would use C4140 HTSR (heat treated stress relieved) because it is somewhat harder. This means cutting it at a bit lower speed, but you only do it once

    The taper should last a bit better with C4140, as will the keyways or splines, and any threads on it, etc.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    83
    thanks Hu, Ill look into that right now

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    813
    I used 4340 for my collet spindle in my self build lathe; seems quite good

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Stevie, your choice is even better stuff Some guys get pretty discouraged when they try to drill it, though
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    79
    4340's not to bad we do it on a speed lathe with a spray bottle of coolant and don't really have that man yproblems besides maybe one cooked part outta 35

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    83
    Hey

    Thanks for the replies, I was able to find 4140 Heat treatted but i was only able to find 4340 in annealed state which I would need to get heat treated.. any ideas on how costly this treating process is?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Shop some more, its out there

    The commercial "heat treated, stress relieved" C4140 and C4340 is stress relieved back down to about 35 Rc hardness I think. But, if you get a piece custom heat treated, it may be too hard for you to work, because this stuff will harden right up to 55 or 60 Rc

    Or, it may bend a little bit after you have it heat treated. You have to be prepared to machine it back to straightness, so this might be asking a bit too much.

    Most heat treaters charge by the pound, or a minimum charge of $50 or so dollars.

    The main advantage of C4340 is it's toughness at low temperatures, which is likely not a big concern to you. It may also have slightly higher ultimate strength, but I wouldn't think you would be working this to its maximum capability, anyways.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    507
    Hu,
    what's C4340?
    I would use a high carbon steel that can be case hardened, or maybe something with a high tensile strength......

    Klox
    *** KloX ***
    I'm lazy, I'm only "sparking" when the EDM is running....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    Hi Klox,

    How's things burning (EDM)?

    From memory,
    C4140 = Chrome molybdenum carbon alloy

    C4340 = same thing with nickel added

    Yes, you could use a carburizing grade like C8620 if you have the wherewithall to machine it after its been heat treated.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    88
    I know if I was going to do a spindle I would look long and hard at 8620. It does not workharden as you machine it so their is no back and forth annealing going on while machineing, as I recall off the top of my head (without looking in Machinery"s Handbook, always dangerous) in the normalised state it's in the 90,000 psi area, it case hardens great with out distoration and leaves a great core for shock resistance. And of course it's in the chrome-moly family. But I'am bias in its favor, as I use it a great deal and love it in this type of situation where I need good machineablity, high or good wear chacteristics and ease of harding. Good luck with your project!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    83
    thx BIG AL,

    I will look into 8620 aswell...but I have one question, how well does it machine when doing free-machining rather than cnc machining?

    Thx

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    507
    Hi Hu,
    I'm fine! Work is a bit on the slow side, although this year holds much promise.....
    Sorry for sounding like an idiot, i don't know the codes of the material you guys use on the other side of the pond. LOL!

    Klox
    *** KloX ***
    I'm lazy, I'm only "sparking" when the EDM is running....

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    88
    I first became aware of the great early use of 8620 steel in the U.S. It's first wide spread use was in the 1930's when it was used to manufacture the M1 Garande recievers for the battle rifle. I find also it's use in a large number of express rifle actions, It's use in the breech blocks is widely excepted also. These actions are finished to size and then cased hardened. I do not have my heat treaters hand book at the house but will get the international numbers out when I go back to the shop in a few days, and post them to you. I work this steel all of the time and it's a joy to use. I cannot answer if it is different to machine cnc or manually as I have not had the opertunity to run it on cnc equipment YET, but soon I hope to do it this way from now on when my mill is completed. But I know a number of shops that run it on nc equipment and don't complain about it in my conversations with them. I know it to be the most widely used steel in the manufacture of firearm actions in the U.S. by custom makers. Also makers down south in Canada use it a great deal. A maker in South Africa used it to reproduce the Mauser actions for the South African market and produced a top rifle with this steel. Good Stuff.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    4826
    The only drawback to using C8620 for a spindle would be the length of the piece, and how it is supported in the furnace. You need some real careful heat treaters

    I usually leave .010 to finish after carburizing and hardening. With a good sturdy lathe, and black ceramic inserts, it machines up nicely.

    How much warp you could get from the part's attitude in the furnace would be a guess, until you tried it.
    First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in.

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    i am currently making the spindle with AISI 4140.. I will leave 0.2mm for final finsishing after hardening.. I will Quench it with Oil after uniformly heating upto 830C in an Oven..This will give me hardness in between 50 to 56HRC
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    2712
    Khalid, you may want to hang your spindle vertically during heat treatment. We always do this to avoid "sagging" or bending the spindle.

    Dick Z
    DZASTR

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    3498
    Quote Originally Posted by RICHARD ZASTROW View Post
    Khalid, you may want to hang your spindle vertically during heat treatment. We always do this to avoid "sagging" or bending the spindle.

    Dick Z
    Wow.. Thanks for the great advice Dick.. I will certainly hang it during the Heat treatment process..
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/

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