[jherndon]

No chatter on work piece, bearing sKipping on bearing seats. The inside of my headstock was spotless and no paint on the bearings, the casting around the bearing had been taped off before
painting, no paint on spindle.

Attachment 222188Attachment 222190

Have you miked the bearing journals on the spindle and how easy did the bearing cones remove from the spindle? I'd be curious to know what you found. At this point I have not removed the spindle or bearings on the 8k. I decided early on to flush out the bearings with oil and see what happened. About a quart of oil was used, and the metal flakes comming out in the drain oil reduced to undetectable. The screeching noises I heard from the bearings have not reocurred since flushing. The heat produced during run-in of the bearings was more than I expected, and I contacted SB and was sent their bearing prelaod procedure. I did reduce the preload until the heat produced on the headstock is just warm to the touch after about 15 mins of running at 1000 rpm. I've had problem bearings before and most of the time the problem has traced to bearing preload. Roller cages on bearings can drag and cause noises until they seat properly hopefully before they wear out. I wish you good luck on the new spindle.

[Mikbul]

No I had to press the bearings off so the fit was good, In my case it was the grease and the prolonged running during break-in. After break-in I had no problems with heat and never touched the preload. Also the spindle nut was not too tight, I stuck an allen wrench in there and gave it a little tap and it came loose.

[jherndon]

Mikbul
Since I've not removed the spindle on the 8k, I was curious as to how you removed the bearing cups from the headstock? Some time back SB said to use a bearing cracker (grind and crack). I saw no way to get behind the cup to pull it on my 8k. Your headstock appears to be bored where access to the back of cup might allow a puller. Also what does the swarf guard/flinger ring look like it's made from? The photo in your post 202 shows it to be black. I hope you don't mind the questions.

[Mikbul]

The first one I ground and cracked but the second one I relieved the casting behind the race a little with a dremel cut off wheel sideways. You only need a 1/16" to 1/8" to get a drift on then there's enough room to get a very skinny chisel ( just as a wedge it works perfect) in at an angle and tap it both sides and then it's open enough to work the drift around. Second one took about 5 minutes. you don't need to bottom the chisel, just open up the crack a little so you can get a drift on it. In the photo below you can see the relief. The new races I pressed in (or pulled in).
I ended up making the relief in the first one anyway to get on it and crack it, the race is beveled on the edge so you just slip off it.
I thought the swarf guard or gasket as SB calls it I thought was anodized aluminum but I believe it's steel, feels too heavy to be aluminum. If find a magnet I can give you a better answer.
According to the all knowing fridge magnet both the bearing flange and swarf guard are steel.

Attachment 222418

[edn]

Hello everyone.

I bought my SB1001 (manufactured 2011) in September 2013. Right away I noticed the problem with bearings shown here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsja-va3WJ8 .

Grizzly sent me the replacement bearings which unlike the original are not marked "P5" (guess they are just normal class ...). The moment I put it on the spindle the new problem exposed itself - over machining of the spindle tube especially shoulders where bearings sit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7GDrvs68h0 .

Contacted Grizzly again and two months later still waiting for the replacement spindle.

While waiting I decided to run an experiment:
1. mount bearings on spindle using non-permanent retaining compound Loctite 641
2. grease bearings with "low-torque" synthetic grease - SuperLube heavy duty grease in my case
3. preload bearings and use lathe without any extra spindle lubrication
4. follow Timken run-in procedure for tapered bearings

The reasoning behind #3 comes from the Timken instructions on tapered roller bearings lubrication.

The use of “low-torque” greases (or synthetic greases) can be
considered for rib speeds over 13 m/s (2560 fpm), up to maximum
of 25 m/s (4920 fpm). Experience has shown that stabilized
temperatures, around 15° C to 20° C (27° F to 36° F) above ambient,
can be obtained at the maximum permissible speed.

The max rib speed on SB1001 with the stock motor is about 8m/s. So far I have 0.00025" runout on the spindle and bearings are not heating any more, unless I go to 2000 rpm for long periog of time.

I have pair of Timken ISO-Grade (P5) bearings waiting for a new spindle so I have nothing to loose with my little experiment.

I do not see how oiling of the bearings can help as when bearings spin the oil will be pushed out due to pumping effect of a tapered roller bearing so unless it is circulating oil or jet, or mist it does not make any sense. It messes everything inside and outside the late and this is about. it.

The third problem I have with this lathe is that taper of the D1-3 plate on the chuck never touches the taper on the spindle which causes runout of 0.005 - 0.020". I expect it to be related to the poorly made spindle and not taken any actions till I get the replacement spindle.

Ed

[Mikbul]

On page sixty two of Timkens lubrication of tapered roller bearings states: "Oil is a better lubricant for high speeds or high temperatures" among the ways to lube with oil is the oil bath and that's what we have here, Timkin says:
"The housing is designed to provide a sump through which the rolling elements of the bearing will pass. Generally the oil should be no higher than the center point of the lowest rolling element.
"If speed is high lower oil levels should be used to prevent churning. Gages or controlled elevation drains are used to achieve and maintain the proper oil level."

As I'm waiting for my spindle that's what I'm working on. Now I ran my lathe for almost four months and oiled the bearings each day but I have a way to measure the exact amount of oil that goes in. I purposely over oiled the chuck side bearing one day to see if the excess would drain and it did, out the swarf cover and not into the headstock. When I took my spindle out I had no excess oil in the headstock at all, BUT if the pulley side bearing is over oiled the only drain is into the headstock. I see no reason a drain at the proper level can't be drilled into the pulley side bearing cover. Like I said I'm working on that and will post once I come up with a solution that doesn't void my warranty.

You definitely have a loose spindle. My bearings I had to press off the spindle, as they should, but not a really tight fit or you wouldn't be able to adjust the preload, which is a precise process, the bearing would move in jerks and not smoothly.
BTW I would appreciate your serial # and where it shipped from. The list is just curiosity and not just problem machines, but machines with non issues as well and how did they come to terms with the spindle oiling.

[Mikbul]

Turns out that's exactly where the drain is on the chuck side, half way up the lowest roller.

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