[LeeWay]

Not if you or they use a colder method of cutting. Cold saw, bandsaw, end mill. The actual machining may actually warp it. This is part of the problem you will run into using salvaged plates like this. You don't know what it is. It can become an expensive an complicated affair to get a scrap plate machined and stress relieved good enough to be a machine surface quality.

[nateman_doo]

I could sit there for the next 2 weeks with a sawzall. That is another option too. I don't know why I didn't think of that. It would cost a pack of blades and a day of electric (and nerves of steel-bad pun)

[FannBlade]

Not if you or they use a colder method of cutting. Cold saw, bandsaw, end mill. The actual machining may actually warp it. This is part of the problem you will run into using salvaged plates like this. You don't know what it is. It can become an expensive an complicated affair to get a scrap plate machined and stress relieved good enough to be a machine surface quality.

That's true. I have also read about surface tension warping as it's released...way over my head though.

I could sit there for the next 2 weeks with a sawzall. That is another option too. I don't know why I didn't think of that. It would cost a pack of blades and a day of electric (and nerves of steel-bad pun)

I bet your arms would still be vibrating for hours after you were done! Keep at it...I've seen people do swimming pools with a shovel.

[LeeWay]

You would certainly not need to go by the gym for a few weeks.

They do have circular saws now that will cut steel plate. Might eat a blade or two, but would get through it a bit quicker.

[keebler303]

Or just find a local guy with an acetylene torch and it will be done quicker than any other method.

No way I would even think about cutting that with a sawzall or a circular saw! :wee:

[LeeWay]

Or just find a local guy with an acetylene torch and it will be done quicker than any other method.

No way I would even think about cutting that with a sawzall or a circular saw! :wee:

It didn't really take me long to think about it either.

[nateman_doo]

Thats why I didn't even consider it. A co-worker has a 60amp plasmacutter. Not sure if it would cut through the 1.25" cut. I would still have to bring them to be machined. The poor guy wouldn't even be able to put them on his machine.

[LeeWay]

If you watch for it, sometimes Yarde Metals has drops of plate that is pretty reasonable and you know what it is. Maybe even sizes you could use.
https://www.yarde.com/catalog/drop7.html

I order a lot of stuff from them in the Drop Zone, but be sure to only order stuff that is located in Bristol. I have had issues with orders from other divisions.

[nateman_doo]

I sent them a quote. So far I am VERY hesitant to start the steel build. i am comfortable with aluminum. I LOVE the fact that I can get all the material in one shot and its cheap, but the work involved is ENORMOUS getting that huge plate into the base, saddle, and table.

Also, I spoke to a machinist yesterday, and he mentioned the rigidity of the ballscrew mount is EVERY thing for my build. I only bolted them, and I didn't pin them. I think I would get much more rigidity if I pinned it. I thought it was genius. I plan to incorporate that into the next build...along with larger ballscrews.

Edit: I think I will make the base sheet out of Aluminum. A 24"x24" plate of steel will be too much for me to mess around with and handle.

[nateman_doo]

I just received word that the 24x24" base has been finished! I took the advise of others and had channels grooved out of the base to butt the rails up against. I should, and probably will be starting a whole new thread on that build. This new mill will have less travel, but more rigidity. Also I plan to replace the X2 head with something that has a quill. There will be lots of pinning involved to lock plates into place, while still being able to remove them.

[keebler303]

If rigidity is your goal, I'd not recommend a quill. When is the last time you saw a quill on a VMC? The farther a quill sticks out the more flexy it gets.

[nateman_doo]

I just want the quill for simple stuff like perhaps drilling out a broken tap, any kind of drilling. Just something I always wanted.

So far the head I am going to use is the Industrial hobbies mill head. (Now Charter Oak Automation)

[nateman_doo]

Doe anyone have any idea why at ever single point of a curve, the machine would take a very short pause?

[Hans_G]

my guess: exact stop mode (G61) and the curve is being broken into many short short line segments.

[nateman_doo]

How does one get rid of that?

[nateman_doo]

G64 gets rid of it:
CNC tip: How does G61 work?

[cjsamples]

Nate, if you are running Mach, Check General config and in the middle of the general page, under motion mode, is it marked constant Vel. or exact stop? That button stopped my pause and resume without having to modify the code.

[nateman_doo]

I will check, but what a difference, putting that G64 is! The edges of all the work look SOOO much better! Now, if only I could get rid of the stepper resonance completely, I would be in business.

[nateman_doo]

a MOST RANDOM update:

[nateman_doo]

Yes... That would be an automatic Tapping head. MUCH MUCH MUCH thanks to Jim!!
Now I just have to figure out how to use it! I am one step closer since I built that stabilizing bar for it. Utilized a scrap piece of aluminum, and it uses the clamping kit threaded rod & nut. WIN!