[FannBlade]

It's OK with me. I think I have him taking care of for now. I have but in a request to have thread edited so pics will show up....if they decide to take on the daunting task of updating the several hundred pics!!

For anyone else for now if you change the URL link to fannblade.com you can pull up images individually. Right click image icon and bring up in new tab.

[KevMoto]

For those that do not even get image placeholders (which I did not and had to view the source code for the page)... the address is Index of /stackimages/cnczone

This will list all his images in order. It's up to us to fit them together with the posts... C'mon CNCZONE.com.... I'm a programmer, you can do a "find and replace" and be done with it in about 5 minutes or less! I'll do it for you, if you don't have a programmer available. just PM me with the admin login and change it when I'm done.

[KevMoto]

FannBlade,

What were the dimensions of your table or stand you built? Also what are the dimensions of the lubricant "flaps" on either side... i like your model and I'm going to copy it :-) Only I think I'll make mine a little more beefy. I was looking at cabinet to weld on or bolt on like you did and even on craigslist they are $125 for a three drawer... I thought I could get one for $50 or less. I'd make one, but I don't want to take the time.

[zer0fighter]

Hey Kev,
Some info on my build too as you were asking before:

I bought a Gecko G540 combo with 425oz/in steppers, 4 of them. Was going to use the 4th for a rotary table, but might power the tail stock instead.

I use Mach3, and I use Rhino 3D for my CAD as I've been using it for a long long time, I really like it and it's what I'm used to.

I didn't strip the gears out like FannBlade did, so I run the stock lathe pulleys and oiling system and haven't had any issues.

I bought 2 - 1 1/2hp motors from automationdirect.com, and I use 2 Hitachi VFD's wired up to the PSU and G540 I got in my kit. I run this all via CNC USB from my laptop which I bought for under $200 and is more than enough to run Mach 3 and occasional CAD work.

My machine is still mounted on my bench top, bolted to it. I don't have the space for a seperate stand yet. I have plans to expand my garage and I probably will at that point, as well as start a CNC router build for large foam parts. I use mist coolant or just spray as needed. Most of my parts are one offs or prototypes.

I think eventually I'd like to get a G0704 and convert that, or one size larger, and then use this machine for just the lathe part. The mill part I'm still not happy with. I was even thinking of building a new Z from scratch, dovetail style column, mounted so I can drop it close to the table surface, and use a proper spindle motor. I don't see myself machining much steel so the high speed + aluminum milling would suit it fine I think. I could create a stiffer mount than where the 9729 have the 2 bolts that hold the mill Z on.

[KevMoto]

Hey Kev,
Some info on my build too as you were asking before:

I bought a Gecko G540 combo with 425oz/in steppers, 4 of them. Was going to use the 4th for a rotary table, but might power the tail stock instead.

I use Mach3, and I use Rhino 3D for my CAD as I've been using it for a long long time, I really like it and it's what I'm used to.

I didn't strip the gears out like FannBlade did, so I run the stock lathe pulleys and oiling system and haven't had any issues.

I bought 2 - 1 1/2hp motors from automationdirect.com, and I use 2 Hitachi VFD's wired up to the PSU and G540 I got in my kit. I run this all via CNC USB from my laptop which I bought for under $200 and is more than enough to run Mach 3 and occasional CAD work.

My machine is still mounted on my bench top, bolted to it. I don't have the space for a seperate stand yet. I have plans to expand my garage and I probably will at that point, as well as start a CNC router build for large foam parts. I use mist coolant or just spray as needed. Most of my parts are one offs or prototypes.

I think eventually I'd like to get a G0704 and convert that, or one size larger, and then use this machine for just the lathe part. The mill part I'm still not happy with. I was even thinking of building a new Z from scratch, dovetail style column, mounted so I can drop it close to the table surface, and use a proper spindle motor. I don't see myself machining much steel so the high speed + aluminum milling would suit it fine I think. I could create a stiffer mount than where the 9729 have the 2 bolts that hold the mill Z on.

Questions:

1. Why the 450oz-in steppers and not the 650(?) that FannBlade used? Just trying to get a grip on the why's of choices made? Budget? Didn't need the extra torque? etc.. ?

2. So you swapped out the motors that came with the G9729 and put in the 1 1/2 hp motors so you could control them via CNC programming?

[zer0fighter]

1: I asked around a bunch, and for the size of the machine, everyone said Nema 23 400-425oz-in steppers would be sufficient. Nema 34 require more space, but in the end, I don't think it would matter much. I don't really have problems with motors stalling, but a larger stepper for the mill Z might be nice. I have more problems with the gib adjustments like FannBlade has also mentioned.

2: Yes, swapped both motors. I have the CAD for the motor mounts if you want it. Had them waterjet cut from steel. They run via commands from Mach 3, basically from 5% to 100% via frequency. I don't have my tach working yet for the lathe.

Questions:

1. Why the 450oz-in steppers and not the 650(?) that FannBlade used? Just trying to get a grip on the why's of choices made? Budget? Didn't need the extra torque? etc.. ?

2. So you swapped out the motors that came with the G9729 and put in the 1 1/2 hp motors so you could control them via CNC programming?

[FannBlade]

The only reason I went with NEMA 34 was for the 1/2" shaft. I just didn't feel comfortable with the 1/4" shaft turning the large ball screw. I have seen similar builds done with 380 oz steppers all around with no problems.

[Bob La Londe]

I believe Ahren at CNC Router parts has Nema 23 steppers with a 3/8 shaft.

[KevMoto]

FannBlade,

What is the overall height of your table (with casters). I'm trying to get an idea of how high I want my table. I'm 5'9" and so far I've figured 31" high for the table with leveling feet on it. I normally put wheels on every table I've made (see my build thread video) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertic...729-3-1-a.html...

I was going to copy your lubricant catch design, but I already miffed it, so I've got to come up with a new design... Man I wish they would have put your pictures in the thread... I thought i remembered how you did it, then i was taking a second look today and discovered I was wrong, but my initial weld up is already done and I'm not tearing it apart (4" X 4" X 1/4" square steel posts).

[KevMoto]

FannBlade and Zer0Fighter,

Was there any particular reason you mounted your stepper on the saddle (y axis) in the place you did (FannBlade on the far side and Zer0Fighter on the near side)...??

Also FannBlade,

1. Can you explain your (Evercoat kittyhair, the 2k urethane and the Brushable Ceramic )... I want to do the same thing, but i know nothing about any of those products. I've never even done bondo work....

2. What dimension is your piece that comes off the table at an angle (one is copper- front side, the other is sheet metal covered with the above)? I know the stepper motor I chose will determine the dimensions, but I just want to get an idea?

3. How did you gut your sheet metal so straight (with a shear?) I have a brake, but no shear... I have a plasma cutter, but until I figure out how to cut a truly straight line, it's pretty much for rough cut only. (I've tried using a guide, but still make poor cuts with regard to straight lines).

I'm going to build the rest of the enclosure bolt-on because we will be moving in about 6 months and I think it would be a nightmare to move that heavy equipment and table with the really light sheet metal welded to it without damaging it. So I'll build it, bolt it on and and take it off to move.

But I'm ready to coat the metal (the main table), I just don't know if, I need all three of the products you used or why to use any of them. Please enlighten me.

[FannBlade]

Just watched your videos...looking forward to more. I was cracking up when you said " where's the motor"!! Now you see why I moved mine inside the cabinet.

I went in the back to give me more room up front and I thought I would use the handwheel (even though everybody said I wouldn't need it...They were right).
I will measure it when I get in shop in the morning.

The 2k primer is a 2 part automotive primer that will need to be sprayed if you go that route. Kitty hair bondo is waterproof to make sure welds don't leak.
The ceramic paint is crap to put on but is amazingly durable. Your call I ended up scraping most of it off....I should say chiseled!

As for straight lines on metal I personally use a cutoff wheel then use a straight piece of metal ,like flat stock, to run grinder up against with flapper wheel.

[zer0fighter]

I put my stepper on the front since I wouldnt have enough room on the back to put it as I've mounted mine on my bench and it's too close to the wall. Fully extended, I only have a couple of inches to the wall.

Eventually I'll move my motor to the other side as well, but luckily, the motors I bought are sealed, so only gunk and swarf can get inside where the fan is, not inside the motor itself.

[KevMoto]

Just watched your videos...looking forward to more. I was cracking up when you said " where's the motor"!! Now you see why I moved mine inside the cabinet.

I went in the back to give me more room up front and I thought I would use the handwheel (even though everybody said I wouldn't need it...They were right).
I will measure it when I get in shop in the morning.

The 2k primer is a 2 part automotive primer that will need to be sprayed if you go that route. Kitty hair bondo is waterproof to make sure welds don't leak.
The ceramic paint is crap to put on but is amazingly durable. Your call I ended up scraping most of it off....I should say chiseled!

As for straight lines on metal I personally use a cutoff wheel then use a straight piece of metal ,like flat stock, to run grinder up against with flapper wheel.

Excellent info. FannBlade... I've got another video to upload tonight. I am not much of a picture take, especially when I have a GoPro I use for motocross.

So, I could probably get away with the kitty hair bondo (for weld leak control) and I love the ceramic coating (expensive though).

Zer0Fighter, thanks for enlightening me. I'm putting mine on the backside for sure. I wonder if I can use your design for mounting the y axis stepper on the back side?? would it work?

FannBlade, I went through most of this thread again today and I am starting to get to the place where you were when you said, you've gone too far to quit, but there is so much more to go, it's a bit daunting. Add to that my penchant for over-engineering things and it's a recipe for frustration. Times like this I wish I could be like some people I know who go through life giving half-@$$ effort... ha h ah ah ahha

[zer0fighter]

The handy part of mounting the Y axis stepper on the front was that there are already 2 well spaced threaded holes in the table on that one side. On the back side, there are 2 other holes, but I think they were smaller and spaced closer together.

[FannBlade]

Quick overview.

[KevMoto]

Quick overview.

Excellent. Love the walk around. Later when I get to the coolant set up. I'd love to see you do a specific walk around video of the coolant system parts and operation.

With regard to the height of the milling head, why can't we just use taller blocks to hold stuff? I know you are not the only person who has commented on the height of the milling head.

If I had room for a mill and a lathe, I would have gotten each separately. In fact, I was looking at old Bridgeports on Craigslist before I made the decision to get this. I figure this machine (Grizzly G9729) is a good beginner machine to learn on and has a small footprint. I understand the tradeoffs I made and am happy with my purchase.

As a side note, I wonder what you can sell the set up for (your 3-in-1 for example) ... ? I only mention it because when we move (soon) I may have more room and may look to sell my whole set up and go the separate mill and lathe route. I wonder what we can get for a completed, clean fully CNC'd 3-in-1 with coolant set up, VFD motors, new pulleys (I''m going to make pulleys and do the same modification as you, even going to add the rpm monitor), etc... and table, enclosure...

[FannBlade]

Glad that helped

Excellent. Love the walk around. Later when I get to the coolant set up. I'd love to see you do a specific walk around video of the coolant system parts and operation.
Will do.

With regard to the height of the milling head, why can't we just use taller blocks to hold stuff? I know you are not the only person who has commented on the height of the milling head.
The problem is support. I have seen guys use boards to get the height. I have a larger vise that I also use to get it high enough...although I have run into more then one time I wish I had more clearance for drilling.

As a side note, I wonder what you can sell the set up for (your 3-in-1 for example) ... ? I only mention it because when we move (soon) I may have more room and may look to sell my whole set up and go the separate mill and lathe route. I wonder what we can get for a completed, clean fully CNC'd 3-in-1 with coolant set up, VFD motors, new pulleys (I''m going to make pulleys and do the same modification as you, even going to add the rpm monitor), etc... and table, enclosure...
I have often pondered this and I'm guessing I would start at $3000 and probably work down from there,but really have no idea.

[KevMoto]

Glad that helped

As a side note, I wonder what you can sell the set up for (your 3-in-1 for example) ... ? I only mention it because when we move (soon) I may have more room and may look to sell my whole set up and go the separate mill and lathe route. I wonder what we can get for a completed, clean fully CNC'd 3-in-1 with coolant set up, VFD motors, new pulleys (I''m going to make pulleys and do the same modification as you, even going to add the rpm monitor), etc... and table, enclosure...
I have often pondered this and I'm guessing I would start at $3000 and probably work down from there,but really have no idea.

That low....really?? A new G9729 like mine costs $2140 (with freight) the materials for the bench probably around $200 (I spent already over $400 but I went way overboard)... then add in the cost of the electronics, add some labor... I'm talking about very clean one (like new) add the coolant system... I'd say around $5k (for the right buyer), compare to Tormach... which new or like new would be twice that.

I'm hoping some guys here that are looking at buying a 3-in-1 but haven't done it yet will chime in.... it's a LOT of work to do FannBlade's FULL conversion with table and coolant....etc..

I priced out some kits and they are almost $3k just for the kit for my machine! So for someone looking for that small footprint and for full CNC and coolant, table..etc... I know I would have considered paying up to $5k if it looked like yours (only I would have wanted to take a little off for having to re-paint the actual machine... lol)...

Then again, I've been in marketing my whole life in one way or another, so I know there is a buyer for everything at almost any price. I quick sale, $3500, willing to wait a bit, $4900...

[KevMoto]

Quick overview.

Since you took out all the gears, does your CNC software combined with the automation allow you to thread still? Because I'd like to do the same thing, but don't want to give up threading abilities.

[Bob La Londe]

Depends on how you thread I imagine.

Rigid tapping is always a hit or miss with Mach 3 in my opinion, but there are folks who do it. Those using a servo spindle should be able to reliably though.

Thread milling can be done with nearly any CNC mill as exact RPM is not critical.

Extension compression tapping should be doable with most mills that are reasonably close to RPM numbers and have decent torque at lower RPMs.

I do most of my tapping as a secondary operation on my drill press with a tapping head.

There is also the start and stop time for the spindle to consider.