[Kalvin]

I've made that UPS mistake once. Never again.

Ok, I've got the first two packages in hand. Steppers, drivers, powersupply and
breakout board.

One little surprize. I ordered a KL34H280-45-8A and received a KL34H280-45-4A.

From what I can figure the best voltage for the -8A should be 94 volts.(In bipolar series 8.8 mH)
The best voltage for th -4A should be 83 volts. (6.8 mH Only 4 wires, so this would be equivalent to bipolar series?)

I've got the 72 volt power supply.

The Nema 23's are KL23H286-20-8B. They work out to 83 volts. (In Bipolar parallel 6.8 mH)

My guess is I'm better off with the -4A over the -8A.

Anyone see problems with this?

Thanks again.


P.S. I had no duty on my shipment into Canada. I did pay GST and a $5.00 handling fee for each package. My packages went with USPS.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I've made that UPS mistake once. Never again.

Ok, I've got the first two packages in hand. Steppers, drivers, powersupply and
breakout board.

One little surprize. I ordered a KL34H280-45-8A and received a KL34H280-45-4A.

From what I can figure the best voltage for the -8A should be 94 volts.(In bipolar series 8.8 mH)
The best voltage for th -4A should be 83 volts. (6.8 mH Only 4 wires, so this would be equivalent to bipolar series?)

I've got the 72 volt power supply.

The Nema 23's are KL23H286-20-8B. They work out to 83 volts. (In Bipolar parallel 6.8 mH)

My guess is I'm better off with the -4A over the -8A.

Anyone see problems with this?

Thanks again.


P.S. I had no duty on my shipment into Canada. I did pay GST and a $5.00 handling fee for each package. My packages went with USPS.

The difference between 72V and 88V or 92V will not even be noticeable. In fact, there probably is no performance difference whatsoever. 72V will work just fine for all of them.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Crevice Reamer]

The KL34H280-45-4A will operate just fine at 72V. It's easier to wire and is 4 wire bipolar Parallel--so will run faster to boot.

CR.

[Kalvin]

Thank you HK and CR.

CR, how did you determine the -4A Nema 34 was Bipolar Parallel? I looked at the data sheet and only see the label bipolar. The connections drawing (schematic) show two coils.

I would assume this would be equal to putting two coils in series for one phase on a four coil stepper such as the -8A.

Cheers, Kalvin






I figured this would make for a great winter project. It's already November 29th and it is usually too cold to be playing around outside. The temperature in Calgary is going to be +6 C. today. Too warm for me to be inside.

Tomorrow is suppose to be even warmer. Don't get me wrong. I'm not complaining. I'm just pointing out the fact we will most likely have the warmest winter in history due to the fact I actually have something I want to do inside.

[Crevice Reamer]

Hi Kalvin. Four wire motors Have 4 coils that are internally wound either Bipolar Series or Bipolar Parallel. The Series motors have much higher inductance. Your 6.8 mH motor is Bipolar Parallel.

CR.

[KCT]

Well, today I finally started and removed the table and the lead screws.
At this point I am trying to figure out the limit and reference switch layout.
I like to have the switches under the table so they are somewhat protected
from the mess.
For me, so far it looks like that the maximum travel possible on the X axis will be
400mm, may be 410mm if pushed to the absolute limit. I will have to trade in
about 10mm for one of the limit switches so that makes 400mm for me.
I wonder, if CNCFusion would have designed the X axis motor flange similar to
opposite flange and if they would have extended the ball screw thread about
4 inches then one could enjoy 500mm total X axis travel.

Anyway, I am happy with it as is. Next thing on my plate is the wiring and the
Y axis.

Cheers

Kay

[Crevice Reamer]

The table as-is is rated at 150 pounds max weight. Over-extending the travel may seriously limit that amount. At some point you reach the breaking point of the Y axis dovetails. That being said, I have 18 inches of travel on my SX3 X axis. This by adding a spacer block to left and extender spacers on each end of the CNCFusion ball screw.

Nice solution for the limit switch. It can move further left than you have it so as to gain travel.

CR.

[KCT]

The table as-is is rated at 150 pounds max weight. Over-extending the travel may seriously limit that amount. At some point you reach the breaking point of the Y axis dovetails. That being said, I have 18 inches of travel on my SX3 X axis. This by adding a spacer block to left and extender spacers on each end of the CNCFusion ball screw.

Nice solution for the limit switch. It can move further left than you have it so as to gain travel.

CR.

Hi CR,

thanks for your advise. So with 18 inch (457.2mm) travel on your X3 you are almost there. I understand that overdoing the travel is a bad thing to do, however I based my observation on the fact that the travel as is, is not symmetrical. It would be a surprise to me that if the (long) travel in one direction is ok and safe but not in the other direction, how come ?

If the (long) travel in one direction is ok and safe, then I felt it may be possible to have the same (long) travel in the other direction as well, gaining close to 500mm total travel.

Unfortunately the Travel can not be extended further to the left as I then would need a complete new redesigned X axis motor mount. As the motor mount limits the travel to the left.


Cheers

Kay

[Crevice Reamer]

Travel to the left is already pretty much as far as it can go. Travel to the right can be increased by adding spacer to the motor mount, along with longer bolts.

CR.

[Kalvin]

The postman just dropped off my CNCFUSION kit.

Now I've got most of the big items in my hands.

Will start putting a few pictures up in the next couple days.

Kalvin

[Kalvin]

Anyone have experience removing the head and column on an Sieg X3?

I remember reading this somewhere, but can not find it. I'm wondering if I'll run into any problems later during reassembling.

I'm thinking of lowering the head all the way down to the base and removing the 4 main bolts. (Or should I slide it off the top?)

The column looks like it's just the four main bolts at the base?

Weights of each? Base? Head? Column?

I'm in the process of tearing the unit down for conversion. I'm this far along and figured it would make it easy for me to move around in chunks?

Cheers, Kalvin

[Crevice Reamer]

Here's a teardown guide:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projec...on%20Guide.pdf

You could take out the 4 bolts, or pull the gibb and slide the head off the dovetail.

The column only has the bottom 4 bolts and 2 taper pins holding it. After removing the 4 bolts, (And of course the Z screw) the column lifts right off.

The head is quite heavy--Maybe 80-90 LBS, but you can remove the motor to make it lighter. The column is lighter and more manageable, but awkward.

CR.

[Kalvin]

Thanks for the link to the tear down. I actually found that while I was looking for the weights. It doesn't show the head removal or the column removal.

I've already got the motor off. I could wait and get a friend to help me move the mill around, but I'm looking at getting this thing moved around tonight.

We've got a big snow storm going on in Calgary,Alberta tonight. "Weather Advisory" So I'm snowed in playing, not much luck of any help tonight.

Ok, I'm going to go finish cleaning up some parts and then off with the head!

Kalvin

[Crevice Reamer]

I removed my SX3 head, (which is much heavier than the X3 head without motor) by myself--But it was a struggle. Can be done if mill is on floor. Much harder to put it back on when on bench, I used a chain hoist to do that. Base, column and table are very manageable. Head is easy with two persons.

CR.

[HackMax]

When I eventually get my ballscrews I plan to remove the head and maybe do some lapping. I have it planned to move the head down to a homemade support out of 2x4s that will sit on the table of the mill and then take out the bolts to release the head from the column. The more I use this mill the more I feel the need to get the ballscrews. I have issues with the head not being as rigid as I would like and backlash is getting to be rather problematic when climb milling. I think that is part of the problem with the final surface finish besides not having a proper spindle speed.

Rick

[Kalvin]

Hi Rick,

The head comes off real easy. I did just what you said. I used a couple 2X4's brought the head down. Took out the four mounting bolts. There is one pin on each side for alignment. The pins stayed with the head so I did not mess with them. The pin appears to be pressed straight into a hole drilled on the seam (each side). Not sure how much fun this will be putting back together. I don't see any big problems. The head was lighter then I figured. With the motor off mine weighted 50 lbs.

I stayed up fairly late last night reading up on lapping. After reading a thread on lapping/scraping on this site I think I'm going to pass at the lapping. If I'm having problems after everything is set up and running, I'm going to have to figure out the scrapping task and try and complete it.

From all my reading (on this site) it sounds like surface finish problems could be related to the piece not being secured properly or (in the case of facing and ridges on the surface) the machine needs to be trammed. As I said this is from reading on the site here.....I'm no professional.....so take it at face value, it might give you some terms to search to hunt down your issues.

I'm off to take the column off and clean it up. This machine is pretty easy to move around in chunks.

Cheers, Kalvin

[HackMax]

Hey Kalvin,

Thanks for the heads up on the head weight. Good picture too. Now I know what to expect. As far as the finish I can see where the machine is trying to jump ahead. I have the part bolted to a jig which is bolted to the table. There is now way the part can move. I didn't have the strategy set up to make a final finish pass though and was disappointed in the outcome. The next time I will set it up to leave a .005" finish pass climb milling. I'm sure the machine won't bounce around with that small amount. If I remember I will tighten the gibbs a little on the finish pass as well. I finally got a decent finish from my flycutter after doing what these guys on the forum have told me - thanks fellas.
As far as the lapping I'm not even sure I will need it once I get the ball screws in but as it is now when the end mill drops into the metal I can see the head actually bouncing side to side so I want to tighten that up best I can.
I am slowly getting this mill in shape but I need to start producing parts here soon to make the payments. I have so many more plans for it but I seem to be needing more time than I have. I would like to increase the spindle speed times 3, attach a router for engraving, make a tachometer for it (using the contents of a mouse), add a laser for x,y zeroing, add a touch plate for the z zeroing, add a 4th and 5th axis....

Rick

[ViperTX]

The taper pins on my Grizzly X3 were angled slightly....looked like a half-as_ed job. So, I suspect most of the tramming would have to be done where the column meets the base. The pins where the column meets the base don't appear to affect tramming.

You will have to grind down those pins for the CNC fusion Z-axis motor mount to sit flush.

Also, I lapped the X and Y axis gibs. I left the Z axis gib alone as it was scrapped and appeared pretty flat.
Paul

[Kalvin]

For reference if anyone is looking for this.

X3 head weights 50 lbs with out the motor
X3 base 70 lbs
X3 column 100 lbs.
(I used a bathroom scale well holding the part.)

Everything is apart, cleaned up and ready to go.

A fellow "scavenger" found me a nice base to make stand for my project. So I'm cleaning that up. Need to setup a top for it. I'm thinking 2' deep by 4' long. thoughts? (It would give me a foot of overhang on each side.)

Has anyone seen the underbed plastic storage containers? They are approx. 3'X4'X4" . What I'm thinking is that placing the mill in this "tub" would make a nice collection base.

Back to work, Kalvin

[Crevice Reamer]

You will have to grind down those pins for the CNC fusion Z-axis motor mount to sit flush.Paul

You must have an older kit. I think the newer Z mounts come drilled for the pins to pass through.

CR.