[jbar]

My 0704 has the newer motor - the one with the 14mm shaft. Does anyone know what full speed motor RPM's should be? Without messing with any of the POT's it's running 3900 RPM. Seems slow.

[109jb]

That's pretty close to spec. The max spindle rpm in stock form is 2250 which considering the gearing should put the motor at 4030 rpm.

[skyguynca]

OK guys, here are some screen shots of my G0704 linear rail mods. I have bought I think all of Hoss's DVD's over the years, I can not recommend them enough. Even the older stuff gives you so much knowledge, the drawings, the videos(my favorites), all the different mods and tools and ...well Hoss has been busy and lots of really great stuff. I recommend you break out your paypal account and order all the DVDs from his X2 Freak site Hossmachine Homepage and www.G0704.com...money well spent.

I have done all of Hoss's mods, and now I am upgrading to linear rails, a enclosure that will help support the new mill mods with greater rigidity. Now with my mods on top of Hoss's mods, my X travel with be just shy of 24 inches (in the pictures you will see the table extension is not in the drawing yet), my Y will be just shy of 12 inches. My Z will still only be about 14 inches because of the increased table height with all the rails and bearings installed.

I am still working on it, alot to still do. If you guys want to earn some real respect for Hoss's real world experience and design mods, you should get Solidworks and give this stuff a try.

Great Job Hoss, thanks.

David

[CFLBob]

Really nice modeling, there, David.


Bob

[CFLBob]

I have a question for everyone who has gone through this conversion before me.

I'm ready to start doing the phase 3 conversion to my mill. Since I switched from Phase 1 to 3 in April, after I had already made all the parts for 1, I've made all the metal parts for 3, drew up and built the controller box, got it running, and it's time to put it all together.

My question is if there's any way to approach building it that's better than just diving in. Is there an order to follow? I'm going to add on the oiling system and then cooling, but I'm hazy on how to do that. It's just that while it's apart, I want to cut anything I need to cut. Things like the channels for the oil to run through. Is there anything else?

I think the first step is to take off the table to get to replace the Y and then X bearings first. Do I need to pull the Z-axis off the base to replace the leadscrew with the new ballscrew, or for anything else?

Hope this isn't too dumb a question. I'd just rather take it apart once rather than over and over again. Maybe that isn't as big a deal as it seems, but I sure would like to finish up this project.


Bob

[hoss2006]

It's easier to pull the column off to work on the oil passages and ballscrew assembly then tram it in after you put the column back on.
Hoss

[Signal9]

Speaking of column, any recommendation on how to break those hex bolts loose at the bottom of the column?

Impact wrench?

[lcvette]

Speaking of column, any recommendation on how to break those hex bolts loose at the bottom of the column?

Impact wrench?

Steel tube over the hex wrench for leverage, they really crank them down at the factory!

Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk

[jalessi]

Speaking of column, any recommendation on how to break those hex bolts loose at the bottom of the column?

Impact wrench?

Harbor Freight has very reasonably priced hex sockets and they are pretty tuff too!

Search results for: 'metric Hex Socket Set'

Jeff...

[CFLBob]

I thought I'd post a picture of my controller box that I just completed. Is that out of bounds? It came with a black sheet steel cover like the bottom cover most everything is mounted to, but my wife remembered a piece of plexiglass she has been moving around the house since the early 80s. She thought it would be a good top for the box, since there are diagnostic LEDs inside and a see-through cover would make it easy to check those lights if something starts going wrong. Seemed like a good, practical idea to me. Finished, it looks like this:

Attachment 338164

Yeah, it was orange plexiglass. I'm sure I'm the only guy on the block who has one. Or the only guy - period. For some reason, I decided to use the junk screws from powder coating all the metal parts that will show, so those screws are blue. Gives it kind of a wild color scheme.

You'll notice it has four of the KL-6050 motor drivers and four connectors on the back panel. All the electronics and wiring has been tested and it runs my motors just fine. I don't have a fourth motor, yet, but I don't have anything to attach it to, either.

Does anyone know of a good rotary table for a G0704?

If this is out of bounds, just let me know and I'll delete it.

[hoss2006]

Really nice job!
There are links to rotary tables on my sites main page under Accessories.
g0704.com
Hoss

[CFLBob]

Thanks, Hoss!

I took advantage of your links to look around. I have the 4" Sherline on my small CNC setup, so I was thinking of a 6" table, and the RDX at Wholesale Tool looks good.

I was just watching those videos where you put that rotary table on the head of the G0704 as a fifth axis. Did you leave it on the machine or decide it wasn't worth it?


Bob

[hoss2006]

It's still on there as the head spacer but I used the motor for it on something else.
Hoss

[joemusso]

I have a question for you all.

Do I need to activate the ground pins on a C25 that is connected to a ESS?

IF so how would I go about it?



Thank you
Joseph

[Propagandalf]

Hoss, is the procedure for repacking the double ball nuts the same as in your video for the single nuts? Not sure if the tension in the double nut would require some extra steps to not mess up. Thanks!

[hoss2006]

Don't know why you would want or need to repack a double nut. They are built to give the least amount of backlash by the spacer in between the nuts.
Hoss

[Propagandalf]

Because in flipping the nut around for the Y axis I believe I may have a ball stuck somewhere it shouldn't be. The nut moves freely up and down the screw but in 2 places there is more tension when turning the nut than the rest of the screw. It wasn't like that before I flipped it. Not sure if that is an issue or not.

[hoss2006]

Gotcha, the 2 nuts can be separated and repacked on their own.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qbVrRYzK5U
Hoss

[DubMFG]

Gotcha, the 2 nuts can be separated and repacked on their own.
Hoss

I wish there was an easy way to determine what size balls I need to repack my Y axis. Seeing .0038 of backlash. Any ideas? In theory would it be just take the current balls and increase in diameter by .0038/2, and account for a bit of safety factor, say .0034/2= .0017" larger balls?

[CFLBob]

Different subject from ball bearings: the oiling system.

Hoss, I watched the three videos on your projects page about it, and don't really see how it all fits together. Do you have a sketch or set of pictures that show of all the parts? Also, you talk about adding manifolds to split the oil flow among many tubes - are they bought or built? Any details?

Did I hear you right that you drilled a 4" long 1/8" diameter hole for the attachment at the back of the cross slide? I just went through two MSC catalogs and can't find a 1/8" drill bit that long. Doesn't that wander too much?

Yeah, beginner questions for sure. This is my first "real" mill - as in about a full horsepower and that will get both oiling and cutting fluid. On my little Sherline stuff, I just spray a little WD-40 or dribble a little Tap Magic.

I see you used a JC Whitney fuel pump and 1/4" hose. The links for pumps are all dead, but I see everyone on eBay is selling this basic pump.

The listings say it uses 5/16 tubing. I don't think that would matter, except that it also might mean every part based on 1/4" tubing changes. I don't see any pumps with 1/4" fittings.

I ordered the parts in "Phase3.txt" that you listed:
Acetal Barbed Tube Fitting, 90 Degree part# 5047K142 1/4-28 thread
Aluminum Barbed Tube Fitting, Straight part# 5058K325 M6 thread

If I need a 1/4" fitting, I guess I'll keep looking.

On the positive side, at least I was able to cut out the recess in the cross slide for the X-axis ballscrew.

Next trick is to pull the head stock and then the Z-axis.


Bob