[keithmcelhinney]

I meant just need the grease before I can do spindle break in. Just picked it up tonight. I wasn't going to do spindle break in until the whole machine was lubed/greased. Now I have to make a stand and I will be all set!

-Keith

[Mikbul]

QUOTE=Wizbaa;1379172]Im happy to hear they dont want to discontinue it, they must have sold a lot of them at this sale price. Im really hoping they keep developing it. Put a QCGB on it and it could stand up against the other small lathes. Of course then grizzly could justify charging a little more, and some wouldnt mind paying. It was a wise decision to buy South Bend.

Did the manual impress anyone else? Clear exploded views and parts lists, although the metal work 101 section wasn't exactly necessary. I dont know how many people would buy it as a first lathe.

I've tracked the spindle bearings down. Little confusing because they say its a 30205 Nachi Tapered roller bearing, but the 30205 bearing has a 25mm ID. The SB1001 spindle bore of 28mm. So it would either be a 30207 with 35mm ID or 30208 with 40mm. I hope its the '08 for my spindles sake, I might not get time out in the garage again until the weekend but I will try to measure the spindle bearing journals. Funny they want us to keep it under 2300RPM, VXB says they are rated to 6700RPM with oil.

30208 Nachi Tapered Roller Bearing Japan 40x80x18 Taper Bearings:Nachi-Bearings

I would appreciate the lead on lubricants, and im sure any other lurkers reading would like it to.[/QUOTE]

If you measure those journals maybe you can get a photo. Looking at the parts diagram there's a gasket on the outside but no rubber seal, so I would assume the inside bearing seats opening for the spindle is larger to allow oil overflow into the headstock cavity. Is there a finite amount of overflow before oil starts appearing under your headstock? It would seem to me the bottom of the headstock is open. Not that it really matters, just curious how much oil can "stay" in the bearing space?

BTW parts diagram states 32009 bearing but a 32009 bearing has a 45mm inside and that can't be right! That would make the spindle wall thickness 8.5mm? BUT, looking at the spindle parts blow up the spindle has two raised bearing surfaces, so it may be possible that they are 45mm bearings after all! They are very large bearing flanges, larger than the D1-3 spindle, about the same size as the 4" chuck, so larger than 75mm, the outside diameter of a 32009 bearing.

In fact , that's a huge bearing flange and it's got to be a 75mm bearing!

Attachment 208376

[Mikbul]

I meant just need the grease before I can do spindle break in. Just picked it up tonight. I wasn't going to do spindle break in until the whole machine was lubed/greased. Now I have to make a stand and I will be all set!

-Keith

That's what I thought you meant, just had to clarify for others reading this thread as to what lube goes where, etc. Not that they can't read a manual! Let me know how you make out getting grease in. I do think most everything is already greased because they ran it in the factory for the test booklet. I know mine was ran there was grease on all the gears etc.

BTW I put the lead screw in neutral for the spindle break in, and with the lead screw in neutral there's only the spindle to oil. The idler pulley from what I see has maintenance free bearings.

[Mikbul]

Got my stuff from Little machine shop today. Forgot how small the OXA and 3/8" tooling is! Pretty much finished cleaning and just have to get grease to do the spindle break in. Went to John Deere and got the Hy Guard so that is all I need! Can't wait to fire it up.

-Keith

Remember it's not how big or small the tool is, it's how you use it!

What kind of bench are you going to make?
Mike

[keithmcelhinney]

I think for right now I am going to make a bench with 2x6 framing and two layers of 3/4 ply glued and screwed together. I think I am also going to make a mounting plate for underneath out of some spare aluminum so the force is somewhat distributed. I looked at various places (sears,lowes, home depot) and their benches left much to be desired. I sure can't see spending basically half the cost of the lathe on the stand so I guess I am building it myself!

-Keith

[Mikbul]

]

I think for right now I am going to make a bench with 2x6 framing and two layers of 3/4 ply glued and screwed together. I think I am also going to make a mounting plate for underneath out of some spare aluminum so the force is somewhat distributed. I looked at various places (sears,lowes, home depot) and their benches left much to be desired. I sure can't see spending basically half the cost of the lathe on the stand so I guess I am building it myself!

-Keith

Just a suggestion. I looked around and found squat myself, until I looked at the Harbor Freight Oak bench. The legs are solid oak and already glued up. The width is perfect. The laminate oak top is the poop in the pudding, being only 1" oak laminate, BUT if you use that top as the center of your own laminate, then you've got a sturdy top. You would have 3/4 ply on the underside screwed & glued, and Whatever top you want, screwed & glued. Adding reinforcement where needed is a hell of lot easier than building from scratch. Also the oak legs are more dimensionally stable than soft wood. And to boot it comes with drawers to hold your mallet to pop your chuck off and a shelf on the bottom. I think I paid $130.00 or something like that for the bench. There are things on the bench I did that you just don't need, like the angle iron runners. I also left two of the four drawers out and added middle legs, also not needed if you make the top thicker. I also cut the ends off the top to fit my short space between the door and outside wall, you wouldn't have to do that. Full length will give you more bench top for whatever. A milling machine!

1st photo: End of lathe bench
2nd photo: Bench as it come from Harbor Freight, I bought two.

As you can see the end legs are 2X2 oak with three horizontal pieces of 2x2 oak. If I were to do it again I would put the 3/4" ply on the bottom and 1" ply on the top, or instead of ply on the top MDF if I'm thinking of the right stuff, it's heavy as hell, very stable, and straight as an arrow. Few coats of poly and Bingo! Or you could go birch ply for the top for looks. You could also put a thick piece of oak (I think it's 2X8) on the top and you don't need to flatten the top like I did, just shim the board nice and flat and glue it up! I just wanted to use that old but never used craftsman router my friend gave me years ago.

and it Attachment 208466Attachment 208464

[Mikbul]

A little off topic I brought a heavy set of metal drawers home from work awhile age and they sat in the corner wondering were to go when!! under the drill press! So down the road wend the harbor freight tool stand (I'll stick a grinder on it) and Kept the hardwood dolly so I can move it and get my tool box out if I need to. Also the plywood swarf tray from the 7X16 that went down the road will get cut down and put under the drill press to hold it up and cover the hole in the top of the drawers. Might take a little off the width of the dolly too.(wedge)

Attachment 208470

[Mikbul]

To get back to the topic SB1001 I'd like to try and turn some 6061 aluminum tube tomorrow since I'm off work. I'll be able to get an idea of how quick I can clean up the tubing. It took forever in the mini lathe and I was going to give up on the idea of turning the tubing and coat it with something? It has extruded marks if I'm saying that right and is not round. I'd like to see if I can clean it up in one pass with the 1001. If so one more step from prototype to production will be met. When I have a chuck I use one of the brass prototypes to dead center in the tailstock, and I'll be able to make one additional 4" long aluminum prototype with the bigger lathe. I should be able to turn a 16" long piece with the dead center without a problem. That will give me 4 - 4" prototypes after cutoff. Since I don't have my test bar operational yet I'll indicate both ends of the tube so I don't turn a taper. It won't be as accurate but should work ok.

[Wizbaa]

The word your looking for is "extrusion", and you should look into a Bull Nose Live centre, they have a large OD for turning pipe. Though you may not find one large enough in MT2.

shars.com - MT2 Bull Nose Live Center

[Mikbul]

The word your looking for is "extrusion", and you should look into a Bull Nose Live centre, they have a large OD for turning pipe. Though you may not find one large enough in MT2.

shars.com - MT2 Bull Nose Live Center

Thanks, couldn't think of it even though I see the word every time I go on online metals. I have a got a fitting I made a while back with a 60 degree taper for the dead center. The dead centers a PITA. I just may order that bull nose. Here's a photo of what I've been using:

Finished the drill press, I like it better lower.


Attachment 208690

Attachment 208698

[Mikbul]

Decided to stick a bearing in my tubing center since it's about worn out anyway. Hogged it out then finished to inside diameter and cleaned up the shoulder with a boring bar. Also relieved the center of the brass so the bearing could spin free.
2nd photo lathe is idling and tool is free of work piece.


Attachment 208794

[Mikbul]

Had to lightly tap the bearing home with a plastic mallet, just the fit I was looking for, snug and centered but I can get it out if I have to. The boring bar holder is wicked tight so I put the bar in a regular tool holder. It's got flats so it worked great.

How's your table coming Keith?


Attachment 208802Attachment 208800

[Mikbul]

Brian Miller of Miller Machine contacted me yesterday and my spindle sleeve is done and being shipped! I don't know the cost yet, he sends a bill and I send a check. I'll let you know more when it arrives.

[Mikbul]

Attachment 208994Re-read the manual last night and They do state ten grease fittings but they also call the tailstock fittings grease fitting, which would make twelve. I think it's a misprint with photo. I can't see greasing the quill!

The bearing works great. No more adjusting half way through a turn, no more oil all over! The next test is turning with the bearing.
Speed might be an issue but we'll see.

Attachment 208988Attachment 208990Attachment 208992Attachment 208996

[keithmcelhinney]

Table is coming along pretty well. Got the top framed and the legs on and leveled. Then the drill died... Going to finish it up next weekend (work away from home this week) and finally get some test passes done. I used 4x4s and 2x8s for the framing. That bad boy isn't going anywhere! Going to put 2 layers of 3/4 plywood on it, glued and screwed. Once my shop is reconfigured with my new mill I may actually bolt the bench to the wall. Can't wait to get this thing running but going to take my time and get everything as good as I can get it before I even turn it on.


-Keith

[Mikbul]

Table is coming along pretty well. Got the top framed and the legs on and leveled. Then the drill died... Going to finish it up next weekend (work away from home this week) and finally get some test passes done. I used 4x4s and 2x8s for the framing. That bad boy isn't going anywhere! Going to put 2 layers of 3/4 plywood on it, glued and screwed. Once my shop is reconfigured with my new mill I may actually bolt the bench to the wall. Can't wait to get this thing running but going to take my time and get everything as good as I can get it before I even turn it on.








-Keith

Nice! It sounds like you're bench is rock solid. I bolted mine to the oak framing in the shop. I can't wait to hear you bolted the 8K down and made some cuts!

I checked for taper in the 16" piece of tubing I turned yesterday and got .0015" . That's without doing any set up other than leveling the ways with a Starrett machinists level.

Attachment 209016

The bearing I put in the tube center worked flawless, no heat, no oil all over, no adjustment. In the last photo that coil of aluminum is one continuous piece! It actually came out on the tailstock side of the tool post, I just stuck it there for the photo.

Attachment 209018

BTW I use a vacuum to pull those coils out, not my hand! Oneida Air sell a very inexpensive cyclone set up.

Attachment 209110

Also, a few posts back is a photo of my tripod I use with the timer on my camera so my attention is on the lathe!

[Mikbul]

Since I have no idea of who may be visiting this thread and this may be their first lathe I'm going to list some DON'T things to do with the lathe!
1. Don't leave the chuck key in
2. Don't wear loose clothing and do roll up your sleeves.
3. Don't pull chips by hand
4. Don't take your attention off the lathe to take a photo. Instead use a tripod with timer, or have your friend take the picture for you
5. If you have long hair put it up
6. don't wear a necktie!

These are just a few I can think of at the moment but be safe and have fun!

[Mikbul]

One thing I was impressed with in opening the crate of the SB1001 was the highly detailed two page test record, signed & dated. It gave me the feeling that the machine wasn't just bolted together, crated and shipped. My previous lathe came with no such record. I've done nothing but level the ways and the lathe has work well right out of the crate. The face turned was flat and almost no taper in sixteen inches. I'll tweak the tail stock a little and that's it!

I'm trying to find out if it's ok to put the three pages of the test report up on here.

[Mikbul]

I received the spindle sleeve from Miller Machine in the mailbox today, sure beats junk mail! I put it on the Miller test bar and stuck it between centers on the 8K. With the test indicator on the small end and spinning the bar by hand I got 0 run out. On the big end a tiny wiggle of the needle BUT I never properly cleaned the mating surfaces and that wiggle will probably go away once I do. It takes only the tiniest speck of anything and you won't get a proper mating of the two tapers. I stuck it in the spindle and got 0 at 1", and .004" at twelve inches. I believe that .004" will partially go away when I clean everything and get a flashlight up the spindle taper and look for anything that might keep the sleeve from seating properly. When I pop it out it's always the sleeve that comes out of the spindle so it's not seated quite as well as the sleeve and bar. Actually the sleeve fits the bar so well it wouldn't come off the normal way of holding the sleeve and hitting the bar with a plastic mallet!. Talking to Brian Miller I may have to press it off, well it might be staying on the bar for now! Actually if I need to I can use one of my pullers to get it off.


Attachment 209552


Attachment 209554Attachment 209556Attachment 209558Attachment 209560


Attachment 209562Attachment 209564

[Mikbul]

Hey Wizbaa! I know you bought an 8K, how are things going with setup etc. Who knows maybe you're making parts already. Also haven't heard from Voere in awhile? Keith's gone for a week and it feels like I'm talking to myself! I know some are reading it's over 3,000 views, but nobody is posting a reply. Any reply is welcome!