[julian wilson]

I changed my bearings and have not properly tightened the castle nut on the lathe spindle. I have been advised it needs 30 ftlbs.

I need a socket that will fit the nut and fit my torque wrench.

I looked at the internet and the result came up blank.

The castle nut on my machine is about 52mm in outside diameter and across the narrow parts of the slots it is 46mm.

I found a 38mm socket has the metal in it to do the job.



Here it is offered up to the spindle nuts.



I turned the inside and out to clean it up and open the inside to 46.1mm to fit into the nut slots.



Next, the “teeth” can be machined on the mill.

[smallblock]

I see you have your stepper mount all in place. Here is another way to get the proper torque and give yourself some support on long pieces at the same time. Just get a large nut from a construction supply and thread it to fit the spindle. Put a bolt and jam nut on the threaded end and 3 equally spaced bolts and jam nuts on the other. Now you can torque it easily with a socket and use the 3 bolts to support long pieces going through the spindle.

[julian wilson]

Next I put the socket in the vice and machined the teeth.

A slow process, my fixture was pretty precarious, however it all went without a hitch and the tool just needed de-burring.



I took the castle nuts off the lathe spindle, I found that the tool did not fit in every orientation- so I centre punched the tool and the nuts where they aligned without a hitch.

Tightened the nut to 30 ft/lbs and all is good.

Another job done.

[BlackICE1]

I see you have your stepper mount all in place. Here is another way to get the proper torque and give yourself some support on long pieces at the same time. Just get a large nut from a construction supply and thread it to fit the spindle. Put a bolt and jam nut on the threaded end and 3 equally spaced bolts and jam nuts on the other. Now you can torque it easily with a socket and use the 3 bolts to support long pieces going through the spindle.

What are the specs for the threads?

[smallblock]

Older machines were 34 X 1.5 Mill Turn is 48 X 1.5

[countryguy]

Nice work!!! I know you've posted some really neat things in the past. Thanks for sharing.

[BlackICE1]

I agree nice work!

My spindle is leaking oil and I am sending it back to Shoptask for new seals under warranty. Instead of hacking a torque value I decided to make one of these tools as well. I used a 1 1/4 to 3/4 pipe reducer. I'm going to weld, or maybe glue a fitting on the backside for a hex head drive. Epoxy glue will probably work as well for only 30 fl/lbs.

If anyone wants an gcode file to make one let me know. Not the best code but I'm still learning. The slots are not uniform around the rings so some additional clearance has to be made on the tool so that it fits easily in all orientations. I decided not to cut away any more metal and instead filled down the offending slots to fit. The circular cuts are much more round than the rings are!

Used 2 HSS endmills a used reground 5/16 really 0.3085 and 1/8.

[julian wilson]

Good work Black.

I'm still plugging away at my machine project, I'm building a new bench for it at the moment.

My Patriot works pretty good now and I use it often to make things, so my machine upgrades are taking longer and longer as other things get in their way.

A bracket for my motorcycle:


....And fitted with the indicators attached. Horns fit on the front face under the headlight.

[smallblock]

[QUOTE=julian wilson;1712194


so my machine upgrades are taking longer and longer as other things get in their way.

[/QUOTE]

Come on Julian- how long does it take to zip tie that Z axis motor cable?

[julian wilson]

Oh Smallblock.....IF you're so smart YOU tell me what COLOR the zip tie should be!

It's not a decision you want to rush into.....Perhaps I should make my own?

[wreckermech]

Julian in post number 8 I noticed that your quill has a second slot just left of center. How did you machine it?

[julian wilson]

Hi Wrecker, that's a bit of an optical illusion I'm afraid.
When I dismantled my quill I machined a pair of set screw holes on each side.
Hmm, that's difficult to explain- hopefully this view from underneath the quill casting will explain.


Into these holes go set screws with lock nuts to prevent them coming undone. On the inside these screws have little bronze slippers that push on the quill- all forcing it towards the right (or end of the casting) and in the same direction as the clamp.

The stripe you see on the quill is the witness of the bronze slipper pushing on the surface of the steel.

[uberlinuxgeek]

Hi Wrecker, that's a bit of an optical illusion I'm afraid.
When I dismantled my quill I machined a pair of set screw holes on each side.
Hmm, that's difficult to explain- hopefully this view from underneath the quill casting will explain.


Into these holes go set screws with lock nuts to prevent them coming undone. On the inside these screws have little bronze slippers that push on the quill- all forcing it towards the right (or end of the casting) and in the same direction as the clamp.

The stripe you see on the quill is the witness of the bronze slipper pushing on the surface of the steel.

Hello,
What size set screws did you use? I have been looking to do this myself but haven't decided what size I should go with.
Thank you

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[julian wilson]

Holes are tapped M8 and the counter bores are 19mm dia.
They are set 60 degrees apart (30 degrees each side of the centreline.)
The bottom one is 12mm from the bottom of the casting, the top one is 40mm above it.

Its a bit of a compromise as you run right into the lock handle hole as you go to drill further up the casting... and if you jump to the other side of the lock handle hole then the set screw goes off the top of the quill (sliding part inside) when it is at the bottom of its travel... so you lose Z axis travel.

Its not ideal, but it has taken some play out of my quill- although I still get lateral movement when the quill reverses as the push/pull of the z axis ball screw is a long way offset.

I'm still working on that project.

[BlackICE1]

The tool worked out well. JT was great and fixed my spindle under warranty with a fast turn around time. He installed rubber automotive seals on both ends, no more leaks. The original felt seals were a joke. They were as soft as a sponge and loose fitting. Can't see how they would seal well at all.

[uberlinuxgeek]

Holes are tapped M8 and the counter bores are 19mm dia.
They are set 60 degrees apart (30 degrees each side of the centreline.)
The bottom one is 12mm from the bottom of the casting, the top one is 40mm above it.

Its a bit of a compromise as you run right into the lock handle hole as you go to drill further up the casting... and if you jump to the other side of the lock handle hole then the set screw goes off the top of the quill (sliding part inside) when it is at the bottom of its travel... so you lose Z axis travel.

Its not ideal, but it has taken some play out of my quill- although I still get lateral movement when the quill reverses as the push/pull of the z axis ball screw is a long way offset.

I'm still working on that project.

Hello,
When you say 40mm above it do you mean then 52mm from bottom for second hole? With that on mine I would run into the lock hardware on bridge/spindle area on my 2014 model not sure on others. I will have to go with more like 47mm from bottom to stay away from it. Do you have a picture up close on the set screws you installed, hard to tell from the cad drawing if I am missing something and you did get close to the lock hardware with your setup.
Thank you

[julian wilson]

This picture will help I hope.
You are absolutely right uber, I wanted the top hole just as close to the lock handle as I could- its a compromise- I would have preferred to put it above the lock handle but it would have limited Z travel.
It kind of all nests in together as tight as I dared.

[uberlinuxgeek]

Hello,
Just to let you guys see, I placed holes at 12mm and 50mm on both sides at 60 degree angle. I am using custom brass dog set screws. Had to drop the bridge to get the ones on the motor side which was fine as I was having the quill out for inspection.Attachment 286792Attachment 286794

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[precisionhone]

How much was your quill to the bore clearance? Why didn't you have JT fix this? It is an obvious a defect in materials and workmanship on their end.

[uberlinuxgeek]

As with any China built machine there are improvements that can be made. It has been said many times before, there needs to be clearance between the quill and bridge bore or things will bind. I knew what I was buying before I purchased by reading every post in the forum. This is not my 1st machine from China and at times it is easier to make your own changes than the waiting game for parts. I had no intention of dismantling my bridge for something I could do. And it worked great. Thanks to the post shared with the information, which we need more of. And JT as always has been very helpfull, he didn't build the machine (designed yes and as always new models overcome the flaws of the last, but do come with new issues), but does help as long as you work with him.

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