[thosj]

I have a Bridgeport clone with a Taiwanese motor that has the label shown in the pic. I ordered a Hitachi SJ200-015 VFD.

What I don't know is how to wire it. The motor is two speed, 2 pole and 4 pole. Which speed is which pole arrangement? 2 Pole 3450 or 4 pole 3450?

What are step pulley Bridgeport users doing, put the belts in highest speed configuration and controlling from there, or some other combination?

Sorry to be so dense, I'm a machinist, not an electrical guy!

[Al_The_Man]

2 pole is 3450rpm & 4 pole is 1750 rpm, you could wire it in 4 pole and run up to 120hz, this will double the 4 pole speed.
Al.

[jimbo7]

The motor nameplate is less informative than normally seen on US made motors, so I am giving verbal interpretation to assist. I hope that is what you were asking.

For 2 pole operation, 3400 RPM, connect leads U1, V1 & W1 together, tape to insulate. Tie the power leads from the VFD to U2, V2 & W2 individually & tape to insulate.

For 4 pole operation, 1700 RPM, keep leads U2, V2 & W2 separate & taped. Tie the power leads from the VFD to U1, V1 & W1 individually & tape to insulate.

[thosj]

I hope that is what you were asking.

That's exactly what I was asking, along with what Al said. I'll try 4 pole and see how it goes.

I ultimately want to hook this up to the 0-10v output of my SmoothStepper/CNC4PC C23 combo to control it, but I'm a ways from that just yet. I'll control it manually for now and not have to run my RPC!

I may be back when I get to doing it as, like I said, I'm pretty green on the electrical end!

[Cruiser]

Question ?
Would the torque of the 4pole @ 120hz be the same as the 2pole @ 60 hz and conversly would torque @ min hz be any differant between the two wiring methods ?

[thosj]

Does anyone know if the Hitachi cable for extending the SJ200 keypad, ICS-1 or ICS-3, is simply an RJ45 network cable or is it special wired?

If I need a Hitachi cable, where can I get one for something less than Hitachi's online price of $80? I can't find it on driveswarehouse.com where I got the VFD. Anyone know of a source? I ain't payin' $80 as I'll eventually go to 0-10v input, but I'd like to run it from the keypad, remotely, with a STDP switch for forward/reverse until I'm ready for remote control via my BOB/Mach3.

[Al_The_Man]

If you are going to that trouble, why not just run it in the remote mode with a couple of switches and a 5k - 10k pot?
Al.

[thosj]

Well, OK. So a SPDT center off switch for forward/reverse and a 10k OHM pot for speed? Sounds better that $80. I was going with a switch for forward/reverse anyway because it seems you can't do it on the keypad without changing parameters or wiring, so a pot, too, would solve both.

Sorry to sound so ignorant on this electrical stuff, but better safe than smoke something.

Still curious about the cable. It looks like the little adapter behind the keypad is made with bars, straight thru, so I think I'll make a straight thru RJ45 ended cable and see!! What else can it be?

If I did this, I'd have the pot and the display, off the box, up where I want it temporarily 'til I get everything built and control it with the BOB/Mach3. Not "that much trouble" if I have a cable.

[Al_The_Man]

I am not sure you can run both modes at once, at least the VFD's I have come across.
IOW it is either entirely with the Keypad in local mode or with external fwd/rev switches and a pot.
Al.

[thosj]

Just an update here on my VFD findings now that I have it going. Just in case anyone else reads this.

My Hitachi SJ200 can work the RUN command and the SPEED pot separately, one via keypad, one via inputs, or both/either/or.

The $80 remote cable from Hitachi is simply a $4 Cat5 patch cable from Home Depot, works like a charm.

So what I have, temporarily while I get the rest of my control box built and Mach3 running, is a remote switch for forward/reverse, and the little control panel moved up by the machine head where I can read/program and control speed with the little pot. This will work fine for a while. The VFD runs my motor WAY better than the RPC that was running it!

I have my motor set/wired for 4 pole, so 60 Hz gets me around 1800 rpm. I currently have max. set to 80 Hz and it's working fine. I can go to 120 Hz if necessary, and the motor will still be running inside it's originally designed 3450 range. There seems to be pretty fair torque at slow, slow speeds. I can't stop it by hand, no way, at a pretty slow speed. I haven't tried tapping a 5/8-11 or anything, so I don't know for sure!!

[CeeltdNew]

I have a Bridgeport clone with a Taiwanese motor that has the label shown in the pic. I ordered a Hitachi SJ200-015 VFD.

What I don't know is how to wire it. The motor is two speed, 2 pole and 4 pole. Which speed is which pole arrangement? 2 Pole 3450 or 4 pole 3450?

What are step pulley Bridgeport users doing, put the belts in highest speed configuration and controlling from there, or some other combination?

Sorry to be so dense, I'm a machinist, not an electrical guy!

Hi hope this helps,

U1 joined to V1 joined to W1
with your wires from the VFD
U to U2
V to V2
W to W2
this gives a 2 pole speed.


U2 disconnected
V2 disconected
W2 disconected
with your wires from the VFD
U uo U1
V to V1
W to W1.
this gives a 2 pole speed.

This worked on my Chinese mill.

[arvidj]

... The $80 remote cable from Hitachi is simply a $4 Cat5 patch cable from Home Depot, works like a charm....

I will add a little additional information which might help out.

Ethernet cable ends come in two flavors - 'A' and 'B'. The first two wires of an 'A' end are green and the first two wires of a 'B' end are orange.

Ethernet cables come in two styles - straight thru and crossover. A straight thru cable will have the same flavor of end on each end - i.e. an 'A' on both ends or a 'B' on both ends. Thought the 'B' on both ends is most common it really doesn't matter to the electronics. A crossover cable will have an 'A' on one end and a 'B' on the other - i.e. the orange and green wires will trade places.

According the the technote, and based on physical inspection of the small connector that goes between the control panel and the drive that I have, the cable should be a 'straight thru' cable. I have no idea what will happen if you use a crossover cable but I also have no intentions of finding out thru trial and error

[thosj]

One more tidbit, at least to MY understanding. Regarding ends, A or B, it doesn't matter as long as both ends are the same! This constitutes straight thru. Ethernet cables you buy are straight thru unless specifically noted as crossover. If you look in the clear ends of a purchased cable, you'll note different types, A/B, depending on manufacturer I guess. My Hitachi worked fine with a $4 cable from the local builder supply store. I don't use it any longer, I have my control software controlling the Hitachi, direction/speed/on-off. My original note was to confirm that a normal straight thru ethernet cable is all the Hitachi $80 cable is!

Now if I could figure out what their 'brake resistors' are!

[mactec54]

Hi thosj

There was some one that wanted to use a forward & reverse switch in this same drive remote & could not get it working how did you wire this switch to make it work good job with the cat5 cable

[thosj]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

What I did is wire a simple switch, double throw, to do direction. In the SJ200 setup, you can choose to control direction and speed either with the panel or the remote wiring terminals. Both with the panel, both remotely, or one one way, one the other. That was the original issue, someone thought you could only do either/or, both on panel or both on remote. I was confirming you could do one one way, one the other if you wish. So....I simply moved my little control panel up by the machine with an ethernet cable and controlled speed with the little dial, direction with a switch I wired. I couldn't find a way to do reverse from the panel!!! Then I did away with the panel, put it back on the VFD, and wired a pot on speed and did dir. and speed remotely. Then, finally, I got everything wired to my control box BOB and Mach3 controlling everything. All working well for me with my motor wired to 4 pole and going up to 120Hz to get speed I want, same as old two speed manual switch from 2 pole to 4 pole to get it. Motor running in same speed range as before 'cept infinate control and motor runs much smoother/cooler than with switch and pulleys!! Happy camper here!

[CeeltdNew]

That's exactly what I was asking, along with what Al said. I'll try 4 pole and see how it goes.

I ultimately want to hook this up to the 0-10v output of my SmoothStepper/CNC4PC C23 combo to control it, but I'm a ways from that just yet. I'll control it manually for now and not have to run my RPC!

I may be back when I get to doing it as, like I said, I'm pretty green on the electrical end!

Hi thosj

Did you get the VFD 0-10v speed control working on the cnc4pc C23 board yet?
If so this is for others, this is how mine is wired.

In Mach3
Spindle Setup tab: Use Spindle Motor Output set to Step and Dir.
Relay Control enabled, Clockwise (M3) Output#1
CCW (M4) Output#2
Output Signals tab: Output#1 Pin 16
Output#2 Pin 1

Motor Outputs tab: Step Pin# 14, active low=X, step port1
Dir pin is left as 0.
The Relays control CW/CCW

Spindle Pulleys page: pulley number1 set to max motor speed.

Motor tuning and setup page: Spindle steps per, velocity and acceleration all played with to obtain the 0v-10v measured at the 0-10V output screw terminal.

VFD Wiring.
Pin1 normal relay wired as normally open for CW, solid state relay not connected.
Pin16 normal relay wired as normally open for CCW.
My VFD enabled is wired to stay connected unless the E-stop is pressed, this cuts the Enabled signal and mains supply.


Coolant is controlled from an additional external relay and spare output pin.

[thosj]

Yes, I have mine working with SS/C23, just like you said 'cept for SS slightly different as far as setup, but no big deal. Wish I'd known what you just said a month ago or so!! I had to dope it out on my own and the SS tricked me with IT having to be turned on for spindle control. Once I got that, things are great and working just great.