587,646 active members*
3,062 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789

    Help with 1018

    I don't do a lot of steel work, but I've done some. However, my experiences this afternoon confused me, so I thought I'd ask you experts.

    Material: 1018 Cold rolled. Mcmaster, claims rockwell 70B.
    Cutter: 1/4" carbide 2fl uncoated square center cutting EM. 1.25" stickout
    Cut: 45 thou deep slot, ramped plunge. 5.8ipm 4500rpm, flood coolant. (Conservative setting in G-Wizard.)

    I got no more than 1-2 inches in this cut before the EM snapped. Not knowing if the bit was dull to begin with, I put another brand new EM. It made it through the cut (4 inches long), but the cutting edges were completely gone, just fractured off the EM.

    Laster investigation shows that this was probably a aluminum cutting carbide. I know for sure it came from McMaster, it was an OSG I think. (At home now)

    I proceeded to mill the next path, which is a 1/32 carbide EM, ultratool. It had no problem at 1.8ipm 4500rpm 5 tho DOC. Cutting edge intact after 30 minutes of cutting.

    So, was it my cut or the tool? Is an aluminum helix EM unsuitable for steel? Is it that this type of carbide is too brittle? Is carbide too brittle for 1018? If so, why does a 1/2" and a 1/32" work fine?

    Thanks for the help guys!
    Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Too far stick out on a 1/4", and coated tools work better with steel. You also don't say how your holding it, taper type, run out etc.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    255
    Gwiz does not care about how long your flute is.
    I am guessing its around 0.75" long which is too much for going 45 thou deep.
    Try 4200 rpm , 13.0 IPM and 0.017" deep.
    This is what you should get.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2013-07-20_01-36-36.png 
Views:	0 
Size:	106.4 KB 
ID:	192678
    http://zero-divide.net
    FSWizard:Advanced Feeds and Speeds Calculator

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Quote Originally Posted by underthetire View Post
    Too far stick out on a 1/4", and coated tools work better with steel. You also don't say how your holding it, taper type, run out etc.
    It was held in a TTS set screw holder, which is an R8. I'd have to check the runout. Both flutes were destroyed.
    So both of you were saying that I'm getting serious deflection?

    Zero, yes the flutes were .75". In terms of load on the tool, isn't that similar since you are saying 13ipm vs the 5.8ipm I was running?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    255
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post
    It was held in a TTS set screw holder, which is an R8. I'd have to check the runout. Both flutes were destroyed.
    So both of you were saying that I'm getting serious deflection?

    Zero, yes the flutes were .75". In terms of load on the tool, isn't that similar since you are saying 13ipm vs the 5.8ipm I was running?
    Yes, the load is almost equal, but the problem is: you need to keep some sort of ideal chipload.
    And if your endmill is too long, the best choose is to reduce the depth of cut, rather than reducing feedrate.
    If chipload is too low, the endmill is not cutting but rubbing, pressure builds up and snap!

    Also you need to make sure the endmill is at least general purpose, or designed for steel.
    Aluminum-specific endmills are designed to remove ships well, but their core strength is not enouh to cut steel effectively.

    IE: I was slotting a36 hot rolled with a hi-performance endmill at 8000rpm and 40 IPM 0.170" deep.
    The endmill stuck out 1" and it had 4 flutes.
    Had I used general purpose endmill, it would have been impossible to pull out 0.170 cut
    http://zero-divide.net
    FSWizard:Advanced Feeds and Speeds Calculator

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Thanks.
    My chipload was 0.6 thou. Low, but not in serious rubbing territory. I'm starting to lean in the direction of this being an aluminum geometry EM, and the rake angle was wrong?
    Learn something new every day. I have some general purpose EM's coming in Monday, I'll try them out!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post
    Thanks.
    My chipload was 0.6 thou. Low, but not in serious rubbing territory. I'm starting to lean in the direction of this being an aluminum geometry EM, and the rake angle was wrong?
    Learn something new every day. I have some general purpose EM's coming in Monday, I'll try them out!
    I would be looking for a 4 flute end mill myself. I have had poor performance/luck with most of my 2 flutes on steel. 4 flutes I do much better with.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post

    So, was it my cut or the tool? Is an aluminum helix EM unsuitable for steel? Is it that this type of carbide is too brittle? Is carbide too brittle for 1018? If so, why does a 1/2" and a 1/32" work fine?

    Thanks for the help guys!
    Tom
    When you say aluminum helix I'm assuming you mean high helix ? if so then it won't work on steel , if it's rated for aluminum then it's the wrong tool for the job . Also a 2 flute is the wrong tool for the job , use a 4 flute , better yet get a coated 4 flute endmill or go one step further and get a coated variable flute . A quality variable with cost a bit more but the life of the tool will equal to at least a couple of standard mills , and they can handle much greater feed and speed rates .
    If your using end mills from quality venders then check their websites for their recommended speeds and feeds , even though you can have 5 different brands of the same end mill style it doesn't mean that they can be run at the same rates .
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Thanks guys. I'm always learning...
    So why is 4fl better on steel? I use 2fl on aluminum for chip clearing, and I can see that's not as important for a cut like this.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post
    Thanks guys. I'm always learning...
    So why is 4fl better on steel? I use 2fl on aluminum for chip clearing, and I can see that's not as important for a cut like this.
    High helix works well on soft materials like AL. The material deforms well and follows the countour of the bit. The chips tend to be longer and curled along the bit. They are also thicker from a higher chip load. Steel does not deform as well and requires a smaller chip load. You can make up for the smaller chip load with more flutes. The geometry of the flutes is different.

    Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk HD

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Aha! That's a good explanation.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post
    So why is 4fl better on steel?
    rigidity
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by kevinro View Post
    High helix works well on soft materials like AL. The material deforms well and follows the countour of the bit. The chips tend to be longer and curled along the bit. They are also thicker from a higher chip load. Steel does not deform as well and requires a smaller chip load. You can make up for the smaller chip load with more flutes. The geometry of the flutes is different.

    Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk HD
    high helix have more of a shearing action than a lower helix . There are many brands available that offer high helix steel cutting mills , but they have a beefier geometry than aluminum mills and they are usually 3 flute or more in order to uphold the tools rigidity . In 1018 they work quite well and they tend to have great chip evacuation , they also leave a great finish which is typical with high helix mills . my preference leans towards the variable flute/variable helix mills which tend to be less prone to harmonics and result in less chatter
    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Well, interesting update. It turns out that a piece of non-1018 worked it's way into my pile.
    I had run another cut with a general purpose HSS EM. It removed more of the endmill than of the stock. So I did a quick hammer test, and the piece I was cutting looks hardened, probably tool steel. Oops.

    Well, live and learn, I guess.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Heh. It's amazing how well 1018 machines!! :-)

    I'm actually pretty amazed that the 1/32" EM survived that encounter with the hardened steel.
    I also found the data on the 1/4" EM, it was actually a sgs series 52, aluminum and non-ferrous, low stress work. Boy, I kinda had everything wrong, didn't I?
    Thanks for the pointers, guys!

    Tom

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    477
    Try some 12L14.

    nitewatchman

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    43
    Thought I shared since I started one a while back beginning this year. I'm making engine bracket swap kits using 1/4" 1018cr.

    Both 4 v. flute from maritool. Both stickout are less than 1" enough to clear my fixture 1/4" bolt head.

    3/6" - DOC 0.028", 2000rpm, 10.5ipm
    1/4" - DOC 0.045", 2000rpm, 12.8ipm (might tray .068" next time, I backed out).

    As someone mention "Rigidity!" Workpiece and fixture plate is everything.

    I do stock 2 flute also but they are not my main cutters (slotting/plunging holes in steel and aluminum uses). Less three flute also as I use my tormach 17mm and 25mm center cutters.

    4 flute works wonder and they are only $15 at maritools vs $8 for a two flute.

    1018cr tigs right up with a wipe.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Thanks BNX! How long do your tools last doing this?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    43


    The 1/4" end mill last me for 3 kit and then I move it to the dull pile for r&d purpose.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    Thanks, that helps.

Similar Threads

  1. RFQ 1018
    By slyguyfry in forum North America RFQ's
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-21-2012, 04:21 PM
  2. machining 1018 steel
    By busted bit in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 06-26-2009, 08:19 PM
  3. 1018 or 4140?
    By Rhodan in forum Linear and Rotary Motion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-05-2009, 03:44 PM
  4. CRS 1018 Tooling Help
    By fhadk in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 11-06-2008, 09:03 PM
  5. Turning 1018
    By mjarus in forum Mini Lathe
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 06-23-2006, 03:46 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •