[Fastest1]

Well this was a test of the o rings and capturing the bellevilles. Most likely will make it out of steel and smaller.Attachment 298794


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[lcvette]

Does it work as you hoped? Do the bellvilles bind in the new centering bore of the top hat? I played with a few designs a while back and considered putting orings around the edges of the bellvilles to allow them to expand and slide in the bore with some grease lubrication.

Curious to hear your results. I like the orings on the top hat lower edge to keep vibrations down.



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[Fastest1]

The O rings work great at eliminating the rattle. Not sure about the captured bellevilles as I haven't connected the cylinder. Or remade the bracketry needed yet.


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[gcofieldd]

The O rings work great at eliminating the rattle. Not sure about the captured bellevilles as I haven't connected the cylinder. Or remade the bracketry needed yet.


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Looks good Fastest:cheers: I have the same setup with the O-rings on my top hat. I really like it. Like you said, it eliminates the rattle and runs smoother. The only thing I need to get rid of now is the vibration caused by the belt at high rpm. I was thinking about making an idler/tensioner which would push against the belt to cut down on the vibration.

[Fastest1]

That was kind of my intent on capturing and or attempting to center the belleville's in the tophat.

I do notice with each change of speed in the spindle adjusting the belt tension seems to help quell the vibration. As in many things, tighter isnt always better. Plenty of room for humor in that ;-)

[gcofieldd]

Is anyone on here interested in selling me their LCD screen, hand controller (the pcb with the start, stop, forward, reverse, ect), and cable that came their BLDC spindle motor they got from Automation Technology? PM me if you are.

See link for what I am talking about:

http://www.automationtechnologiesinc...tor-and-driver

[gcofieldd]

Today was a good day. I finally got my draw bar installed and working. Scott at Benchtop Precision made the draw bar for me out of a McMaster 1/2 inch bolt. My lathe is down, so I could not make it myself. I oversized the draw bar by about .003 and then sanded and lapped it into the top hat so it fits concentrically with no play. I also sized the OD of the draw bar so the Bellville washers fit snugly, so they stay concentric as well. Here are some pictures of everything installed. I also linked a video I posted on YouTube of it in action. I will black anodize everything in a few weeks after I finish making some more parts.

[lcvette]

Looks good!!

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[gcofieldd]

Looks good!!

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Thanks man! It has been a long time coming.

[lcvette]

When you get your Lathe back up and running you can turn down the OD of those belvilles and make them nice and Shiny and parallel.. lol

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[Kenny Duval]

Good to see piles of chips in the pan.

[gcofieldd]

Good to see piles of chips in the pan.

The mill is running well now:cheers:

[rwskinner]

Looks really good. Don't make the spring washers fit too snug to the draw bar. They are cup shaped now and when you flatten them out they will change size and you want to account for that. I believe McMaster and others have the sprung and unsprung dimensions on their site.

[mduckett]

Graham, hadn't checked back in a while-the mill looks really great, nice to see it all working. --md

[gcofieldd]

Looks really good. Don't make the spring washers fit too snug to the draw bar. They are cup shaped now and when you flatten them out they will change size and you want to account for that. I believe McMaster and others have the sprung and unsprung dimensions on their site.

Thanks rwskinner:cheers: Your build is damn awesome. That is a good point about the washers. I took that into account. I sized everything based off of the min ID of the washers. It appears to be working well, but I have not done any heavy cutting so we shall see. I have some heavier washers on standby if I get tool pullout. If I have to switch to the heavier washers I will need to make something to go around the OD of the washers to keep them centered. The heavier washers have a larger ID.

[gcofieldd]

Graham, hadn't checked back in a while-the mill looks really great, nice to see it all working. --md

Thanks mduckett! it is good to see you are back working on your build as well

[gcofieldd]

I am still tweaking the mill...can't seem to stop. I have a list of stuff I am trying to work off:

I am going to make the enclosure taller to keep the chips in
The x-axis sounds good in one direction and rough going in the other...not sure what that is about.
I still need to tweak the one shot oiling system. I am getting to much oil on the ball screws and not enough on the ways
I want to remake my gib strips. I did a messy job when I put the oil holes in them. Also, I am not a fan of the screws you use to tighten them. Might see if I can find/make something better.
I need to mount my spindle motor drive and wire it to my controller...that will take some head scratching.

After all that and assuming everything keeps working the mill should be done. I have spent so much time working on the mill I need to remember why I converted it in the first place...

[high-side]

Your build is looking awesome.
As to the oil to your ball screws / ways, you need a adjustable needle valve to control the flow to each component separately.

[peter.steele]

Just to give you guys a heads up on what I have been doing, I installed the last oil line and the one shot lube system works. I need to install a metering or shut off valve on the oil line that runs to the bottom (x and y axis) so the z axis will get oil. I knew I would need to, just wanted to see how bad it was first and then make a decision. I found out my x-axis ball screw is bent to **** There is at least an 1/8 inch bend in it--not sure how I missed that. I may wait on fixing it. It seems like it works ok, just a little rough going in the +x direction.

I modeled my first part in solid works (use ProE for work) and it was pretty straight forward if you are used to CAD. I had to do a little searching to find everything. I modeled the spindle vibration dampener Hoss designed. For some reason *.stl files do not work with SW and ProE, so I could not use Hoss’ model. Anyway, I installed HSMXPRESS, which is awesome, and created the tool paths for the part, but could not get it to post process. It tells me “Error: Failed to post intermediate NC data.” I am not sure what that means. Does anyone have any advice for using HSMXPRESS with Mach3?

Here is the full output with error:

Information: Configuration: Generic Mach3Mill
Information: Vendor: Autodesk, Inc.
Information: Posting intermediate data to 'C:\Users\Admin\Documents\SolidWorks\G-Code\1.tap'
Information: Total number of warnings: 1
Error: Failed to post intermediate NC data.
Loading locale from 'C:\Program Files\HSMXpress\locales\english_us.xml'
Code page changed to '1252 (ANSI - Latin I)'
Start time: Friday, October 17, 2014 11:50:05 PM
Code page changed to '20127 (US-ASCII)'
Post processor engine: 3.9.5 36189
Configuration path: C:\Program Files\HSMXpress\posts\mach3mill.cps
Include paths: C:\Program Files\HSMXpress\posts
Configuration modification date: Monday, February 10, 2014 3:01:42 PM
Output path: C:\Users\Admin\Documents\SolidWorks\G-Code\1.tap
Checksum of intermediate NC data: 831b07688cf4e3e7862688fc778f1ce9
Checksum of configuration: 6166e5b8d039f1d89c8378ec3ba8dfb7
Vendor url: Autodesk | 3D Design, Engineering & Entertainment Software
Legal: Copyright (C) 2012-2013 by Autodesk, Inc.
Generated by: HSMXpress 2014 R2.36580
Warning: Work offset has not been specified. Using G54 as WCS.
Error: Invalid coolant mode
Error: Failed to invoke function 'onSection'.
Error: Failed to invoke 'onSection' in the post configuration.
Error: Failed to execute configuration.
Stop time: Friday, October 17, 2014 11:50:05 PM
Post processing failed.

I know I'm a little late jumping in on this one - like 18 months or so too late - but the problem is most likely that you tried to tell HSM to give you both flood and mist cooling at the same time. For some reason Autodesk refuses to believe that you can put an M7 on one line and an M8 on the next line without somehow managing to blow up your mill. I have mist cooling set up at home, with a shop vac to suck away chips and fumes, and have to manually add in the M8, while HSM gives me the M7 automatically. I wish they'd let you do both.

[gcofieldd]

I really dislike the mount/ mounting solution for the nozzle that comes with the FogBuster. I decided to modify it, so I bought a manifold, loc-line, and a couple push-to-connect fittings from McMaster-Carr to replaced the nozzle. My solution did not work as well as I had hoped. The new nozzle sputters and I have to open the coolant valve up all the way to get it to spray.

Does anyone who has made a DIY FogBuster have a solution for this?

Here are pictures of what I did: