[eums]

when i was in high school and in college i worked at a machine shop making not so complex parts for rock crawlers. it was mostly milling castings and a little fab.
now i have free time and i have been buying odds and ends here and there to get me going.
so i am starting off from scratch. i have a few things in mind.

for a lathe i am looking at 8 x 14 Mini Lathe from lathemaster.com
It seems to fit what i am going to do and the space i have.

for a mill i was thinking something cheap to get me started like a hoimer mini mill. ( it uses r8 collets, i was taught on a bridgeport so its something i know more or less) + i can borrow some things from my friend with a bridgeport

those 2 fit the price points and size issues i had in mind unless there is somehting else out there thats a better deal. I am open to ideas

as for tooling i have been buying starrett, i have so far 6" calipers, 0-1" and 1-2" mic's, machinist square in 2 and 4", lastword indicator, telescoping gage set, and a 0-6" depth mic.
I was taught using starrett + i like the quality and i want a tool that going to last if i take care of it.
I know i need a few more things like rulers, 123 blocks, parallel's, protractor, threading gauge set,scribe, punches, center finder, but not sure if i am missing any other must have tools ? maybe a 2-3" mic ?

I know i am going to get collets, QC tool post,vice, bits, end mills, cutters, reamers, ect as i need them, most likely order them at the same time as i get the machine.

Any ideas or words of wisdom would be greatly apprechiated !!

Nick

[Ken_Shea]

Nick, be sure and purchase a good set of gloves, you will need these so you don't hurt your hands as you hang on to the ride of your life in what you will need next

I am being serious here, it never seems to stop.
Seems like you are doing it in a methodical way buying quality, that is a good thing.

Every one I know, their spending is limited by available funds, and every one I know would do it differently if they started all over, so check the specs, and purchase those things that best seem to fit your suspected need and finances, then enjoy it, don't look back in regret, look back only to learn. I console myself in my mistakes by remembering that "Education is expensive".

Here are a few things that you will want if you do not already have them.
1) A good work light
2) A tool and miscellaneous item's cart.
3) Air compressor
4) Sturdy work bench

[HuFlungDung]

Shop Ebay, is what I'd recommend. It takes a little while to collect everything (if you were opening a business tomorrow), but the deals just are fantastic in used, but still good quality tooling and machinery.

[ViperTX]

eums,

I got the 8x14 from Bob at Lathemasters....ask him for a startup kit (live centers, indexable carbide kit, drill chuck, etc. for the lathe.) Almost forgot speak to Bob about the Sieg X3 mini-mill....maybe he'll make you a deal if you buy both tools from him. He's a little slow with email....but a phone call will work wonders.

From other sources...rotary table (for your mill), face mill ...boring head (where you can change the arbor to fit the mill and lathe). Good indicators so you can dial in stuff and tram your mill's head...also a good indicator holder for your mill.

I would recommend indexable carbide as the best solution for most all your milling and machining.

[lerman]

HuFlung has the right idea. What I did was ask a local machine shop to recommend a reputable local used machinery dealer. I bought a 15 x 30 lathe (around $2500). He also happened to have a Bridgeport clone with a noisy head that he wanted to get rid of. For an extra $250 I had 2400 lbs of cast iron. It cost me under $150 to replace the brake and some bearings on the milling machine, and I was in business. (You don't want to know what I've spent on tooling so far.)

By the way, a friend with a backhoe and a dump truck helped me get the tools home and into my garage. That saved me $400 in riggers fees. (And that almost paid for the three phase rotary converter I needed to power the machines.)

[eums]

thanks for all the replys.

i am buying used. it seems new tools drop 50% of the value as soon as you pick up the box and another 25% once there taken out of the box. so you can get an allmost new tool for 20-40 % of the msrp price.

i am watching e-bay for deals. i have picked up a few things from them.

as for gloves i was told not to use them ? incase a hand some how gets by a bit the glove can get sucked into the machine. or is this nonsence ? i have seen peoples gloves get caught in mills, disk sanders, and a lathe. its like once the leather touched the tool it was sucked in.

for a work light i am going to make a metal halide pendant in 150w and a spot light in 70w.
i have a compressor
for the work bench i am probly going to make a new one, the one i have is only 14" deep, i think i am going to make a 24" deep bench.


I would go for bigger machines but i don't have the room. but i will look for used machines around here , i know there must be alot of them.

Again thanks for the replys !!

[Ken_Shea]

as for gloves i was told not to use them ?

Nick for the record, whoever said not to use gloves is correct, my post about the gloves was not advocating the use of gloves while machining, it was a joke, that is what the stupid little big grin icon usually indicates.

Ken

[lerman]

as for gloves i was told not to use them ?

Nick for the record, whoever said not to use gloves is correct, my post about the gloves was not advocating the use of gloves while machining, it was a joke, that is what the stupid little big grin icon usually indicates.

Ken

On the otherhand, I found that a box of latex gloves in the shop is really handy. I really don't like the grease under my fingernails. And the cheap gloves are not dangerous near rotating equipment.

Ken

[HuFlungDung]

I dunno about that. The problem with any glove is the strength of the material it is made of. That's why, when a stringy chip catches hold if it, it sucks your hand in, because the glove will not tear off. If you are doing manual machining like drilling and lathe work, take the gloves (and rings) off if you are working near the rotating chuck and stringy chips are involved.

We all know that it is a battle sometimes to maintain chip control. Carbide inserts with formed chipbreakers are of great assistance in reducing the formation of long stringy chips (when properly applied). That's one thing you don't get with hand sharpened lathe tools, or brazed carbide tools, is chip control.

When drilling, peck drill to break the chip. Even on manually operated machines, this is possible, its just a technique to learn.

I suppose finger gloves (seperate latex tube for each finger) might be okay.

[balsaman]

The latex gloves will not get caught in the machine. They are like the ones a sugeon wears and are not tough enough to be a problem. Also tight fitting

Eric

[ger21]

as for gloves i was told not to use them ? incase a hand some how gets by a bit the glove can get sucked into the machine. or is this nonsence ? i have seen peoples gloves get caught in mills, disk sanders, and a lathe. its like once the leather touched the tool it was sucked in.

One of the guys on American Chopper got his glove caught in the drill press in an episode I saw a few weeks ago. Not too much damage, but he was lucky. Never wear gloves with machinery.

[eums]

good to know i still remember a few things.

i really don't like gloves all that much + i have a wide palm and longish fingers so gloves never fit right.

as soon as i finish drywalling, putting lights in and getting all that set up i am going to look for the machines.

would it be better to go with 220v ( i have a 220v 40a line in the garage ) vs. 110v ?

[Ken_Shea]

If you have the option 220 would be best, higher start up torque, lower amps.

[eums]

I found a south bend 9x14 lathe that seems to be in great shape. (with some tooling)

i am going to look at it on tuseday, the price is allmost too good to be true.
its less than $100 more than the HF 7x10 but the quality of the machine ... there is no comparison. + it can be wired for 220v