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Thread: Finally !!!!

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041

    Finally !!!!

    Well it's final, Yes the loan that I've been waiting on so patiently has been approved. :cheers:



    So my next question/s is, I'm looking at the Basic PCNC Package II and was wondering what else would I need exactly ?


    - 2 Ton hoist
    - Silicone for the proper flood seal
    - Mounting kit, but which one (123 blocks, threaded rods, etc..) ? I can't seem to find one on there website
    - 12 pack of beer jk






    I was also wanting to know if the computer was really worth the price, or should I just try and find a computer on sale at some store like Circuit city, Best buy, etc... ?

    I own a laptop with the current software I'm using, and works out very well. So the only computer I would need is the controller computer and that's it.


    --------------


    Now as for Cad/Cam software, what should I do ? Someone said something about it coming with it, but I don't see this anywhere.... I'm not going to have much money left over after the machine, so I'm looking for something in the $200.00 - $300.00 range (Cad-Cam) ?



    I'm using a few free programs at the moment Emachineshop.com software and CamBam. Which I love because they're very easy to learn and have great forum support.


    Can I still use these programs or does Mach 3 not work very well with them ?




    Thanks again guys !! Can't wait

    Wanting to make my purchase tomorrow, so please if there's anything you can think of.....



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Anyone ??

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438
    i found e-machine shop to be very easy to use. so easy it is the only program i can even figure out. i have used it a few times to draw a part and export it as a dxf to sheet cam. it will work. sheetcam has been working good for me on 2-1/2d parts which is about all i have done so far. it is in your price range.

    i have a few enco imported clamp sets that work ok. i would recommend at least one set to start with. get at least one set of 123 blocks to start. i have one set and think i am going to order a couple more shortly.

    i had a local shop put together a computer for me with windows xp. i couldn't find one with windows at the big electronic stores. i am not a computer guy so i can't really tell you if there is any advantages to getting the tormach computer vs. buying/building your own.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Thanks, any links to the enco sets ?



    As for the computer, yea I'm a bit stuck at the moment. The only reason I would buy what they tell me is because of the whole setup thing with making sure you mill is in correct movement.

    Meaning if I have a move on the X axis at 0.004, then the endmill should be right at 0.004, not at .002 and so on.



    As for any other products needed, can you think of any ?


    Thanks

    Chris

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    18
    Congratulations. Now hopefully everything is in stock and the process doesn't drag out with the "waiting game".

    For a control computer, the best thing is to simply repurpose a machine you have lying around. Of course, that doesn't work if you don't have anything lying around. I didn't have anything lying around but I did know someone who did and I bought the machine from him for $50. The control computer doesn't have to be very powerful (i.e., can be an older /slower machine) -- as long as it is clean and tuned up (from a software standpoint). The Tormach computer certainly costs more than what you can get on your own, but it is cleaned up, ready to go, and guaranteed to work. If you buy one from Circuit City, Best Buy, a friend, etc. be prepared to spend some time cleaning the machine up -- uninstalling all the junk they put on there. Best thing is to install a fresh copy of Windows from scratch and without all the bundled garbage. Ultimately it boils down to how much your time is worth and how comfortable you are with computers. You might even be able to use your laptop for a little while (not recommended for long term) but certainly worth a try if you have nothing else at the moment.

    For hold down kits, I purchased mine from J&L (http://www.jlindustrial.com/TGTEC-12...D/product.html). Made in the USA and obviously more expensive than the import sets, but higher fit and finish and doesn't smell like gasoline :-). I don't believe in skimping on the small things, but that is me. The mill is just the tip of the iceberg from a cost standpoint so get used to browsing the various tool websites (J&L, KBC Tools, Enco, etc.).

    Mach3 and the Tormach work with standard G-Code so they can handle the output of any CAM program really. The main issue being whether the CAM package has a post processor that will work with the Tormach (or whether they let you write your own and you know what you are doing). The Tormach comes with a "demo" copy of Sheetcam (full version is only $180) that is limited to producing 100 lines of G-Code (if I remember correctly) so it is only useful for checking out/playing around. I would say stick with what is working for you now and upgrade later if you find out you need something different. The CAD/CAM prices on Tormach's site are for anyone who has bought a machine. In other words, you don't have to buy at the same time as the machine to get those prices so no hurry to decide.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    180
    I just bought a dell from their outlet and let me tell you I run solidworks,bobcad and mach3 to my tormach all at the same time with no problems at all. Plus I have a 3 year next day at your house warrenty. I got all the upgrades and paid 503.00 I went with XP pro

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Well now that shipping prices have gone up, this exceeded my loan. So I'm now looking into the $50.00 - $175.00 range. However if you say my current software will work fine with Mach 3, then I'll just stick with that for now.


    Anyone out there using Emachineshop.com & Cambam with Mach 3 ???


    Chris

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    7
    congrats on your new buy,

    I really enjoy my machine so far. A pallet jack might be helpful. I had to put the machine stand on some wood blocks, so the engine lift legs could roll under the stand for final mill placement. The lifting bar was also helpful for keeping the mill balanced. The mill is quite a load for a engine lift , but can be done, just take your time. Once I had the mill on the base I used the pallet jack to lift it off those blocks and back down to the adjustable feet. The pallet jack is also helpful for final placement.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Hi Glenn,
    Got the pallet jack, just need the engine hoist. I'm looking at the 2 ton harbor freight hoist, looks to be enough. I have almost everything setup, but I'm not pushing the button until the software issue is resolved.

    That's the last thing I need is to have a machine and no software to run it. I'm not trying to be cheap, but I have limits. I'd rather have a great machine and not have to worry about upgrading this or modifying that for better performance. I need something that is reliable period.



    So anyone using Cambam or Emachineshop with your Mach 3 ???




    Thanks for the help



    Anyone please feel free to add anything you might think I'll need to get started.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438
    you don't need any cad/cam to run it. if you learn g-code you can make lots of things. most of my parts have been manually programmed. if cambam will accept dxf files like i would assume it would, you should be able to export a dxf from emachinehsop and use it.

    even with a cam program, you should learn g-code so you can interpret it. i am still learning it but with my book i can program just about anything i have needed so far. what may take an experienced cnc machinist an hour to write the code may take me a day or two though.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Hi Sniper,
    Yes I've took the time to learn the basics manually, but the kind of parts I'm making are way to complex for me to program them manually. I believe you're right, the programs should work.



    Any new parts to show off ???

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by twocik View Post
    Hi Sniper,
    Yes I've took the time to learn the basics manually, but the kind of parts I'm making are way to complex for me to program them manually. I believe you're right, the programs should work.



    Any new parts to show off ???


    since you asked, i made this wrench today for the drawbar on the tormach. i drew it up in emachineshop and created the code with sheetcam. after it came off the tormach i bead blasted it and finished it in caswell's black oxide. i then used the "write" wizard in mach3 to do the engraving.

    it took less than 15 minutes to draw it in emachineshop and probably 10 minutes to create the code in sheetcam. the part took 13 minutes to cut in 3/8" hot rolled steel (what i had laying around) with a 1/4" 4 flute hss endmill.

    you can use any old wrench on the drawbar but i was just messing around today.




  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Wow that's pretty quick thru steel !!! Looks nice, but it's hard to see any definition without light on the part. When using a flash sometime this makes the lighting worse.

    Part and engravings look very nice though.




    "caswell's black oxide."


    So does this just turn any material black, kind of like anodizing it ?


    I have a few aluminum pieces that I wanted to turn black.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by twocik View Post
    Wow that's pretty quick thru steel !!! Looks nice, but it's hard to see any definition without light on the part. When using a flash sometime this makes the lighting worse.

    Part and engravings look very nice though.




    "caswell's black oxide."


    So does this just turn any material black, kind of like anodizing it ?


    I have a few aluminum pieces that I wanted to turn black.

    there isn't really any definition to that wrench.

    i don't have caswell's link handy but you should be able to google it and find it easily. it only works on steel. from what i understand it is controlled oxidation. it is very easy to use. just clean the part of all oil, dunk in the black oxide solution for a few minutes, remove it and rinse it off in water then dunk in the penetrating oil for five minutes. caswell's does have anodizing kits also. they may have something that you are looking for.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    180
    Hey I just put bobcad v22 on ebay so if you are interseted it works great with the tormach and they make a great post for it too.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1538
    Hi Sniper. I have been meaning to make a thicker draw bar spanner with a copper plate screwed on to save burring the top. I like your shape - could you post your G code ? - and how tight do you lock the draw bar?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    438
    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    Hi Sniper. I have been meaning to make a thicker draw bar spanner with a copper plate screwed on to save burring the top. I like your shape - could you post your G code ? - and how tight do you lock the draw bar?

    here is the code for the wrench i made. i used sheetcam to create the code. i am still learning machining so the lead in and out may not be what you are used to. the inside of the wrench ended up being slightly undersized. i just touched it up on the disc sander and have not looked into why it ended up undersized. i am not sure if i made a mistake with my drawing or if something happened with sheetcam.

    i believe i used 4 or 5 passes at .08" deep and .005" oversized and one pass at .385" deep (.01" through the part) with no oversize. i used a .25, 4 flute hss endmill. the engraving is not in this code. if this doesn't look right to you i can get you the dxf for it and you can change it if you like.

    i tighten my draw bar tight now after having a tool holder pull out and down into the part wrecking it.


    Code:
    N0000 (Filename: wrench 2  [10 degree angle].tap)
    N0010 (Post processor: Mach2.post)
    N0020 (Date: 5/10/2008)
    N0030 G20 (Units: Inches)
    N0040 G40 G90
    N0050 F1
    N0060 (Part: wrench 2  [10 degree angle])
    N0070 (Process: Outside offset 2, 1/4" endmill, 0.365 inch Deep)
    N0080 (1/4" endmill)
    N0090 T12 M06  G43 H12
    N0100 M08 (Flood coolant on)
    N0110 M03 S2140
    N0120 G00 Z0.1000
    N0130 X2.5616 Y0.8300
    N0140 Z0.0197
    N0150 G01 Z0.0000 F3
    N0160 G03 X2.5212 Y0.7619 Z-0.0800 I0.1131 J-0.1131
    N0170 G02 X2.5616 Y0.8300 I0.1535 J-0.0450 F8.56
    N0180 G03 X2.5616 Y0.6037 I0.1131 J-0.1131
    N0190 G01 X2.9738 Y0.1915
    N0200 G02 X3.0191 Y0.0225 I-0.1237 J-0.1237
    N0210 G01 X3.0062 Y-0.0258
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    N0450 G00 Z0.1000
    N0460 X2.5616 Y0.8300
    N0470 Z-0.0603
    N0480 G01 Z-0.0800 F3
    N0490 G03 X2.5212 Y0.7619 Z-0.1600 I0.1131 J-0.1131
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    N1060 G01 X1.8876 Y0.7144
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    N1100 G03 X2.7879 Y0.6037 I0.1131 J0.1131
    N1110 G00 Z0.1000
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    N1140 G01 Z-0.2400 F3
    N1150 G03 X2.5212 Y0.7619 Z-0.3200 I0.1131 J-0.1131
    N1160 G02 X2.5616 Y0.8300 I0.1535 J-0.0450 F8.56
    N1170 G03 X2.5616 Y0.6037 I0.1131 J-0.1131
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    N1260 G01 X2.8599 Y-0.5716
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    N1290 G02 X1.9531 Y-0.8462 I-0.1100 J0.4105
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    N1580 G01 X2.8599 Y-0.5716
    N1590 G02 X2.7362 Y-0.6953 I-0.1690 J0.0453
    N1600 G01 X2.1731 Y-0.8462
    N1610 G02 X1.9531 Y-0.8462 I-0.1100 J0.4105
    N1620 G01 X1.7172 Y-0.7830
    N1630 G02 X1.5733 Y-0.6729 I0.0615 J0.2294
    N1640 G01 X1.5675 Y-0.6630
    N1650 G02 X1.5671 Y-0.6623 I0.1512 J0.0882
    N1660 G03 X1.3140 Y-0.5011 I-0.2815 J-0.1625
    N1670 G01 X-2.5572 Y-0.1624
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    N1740 G02 X2.5616 Y0.6037 I-0.1100 J-0.4105
    N1750 G03 X2.7879 Y0.6037 I0.1131 J0.1131
    N1760 G00 Z0.1000
    N1770 (Process: Outside offset 2, 1/4" endmill, 0.385 inch Deep)
    N1780 X2.5262 Y0.7946
    N1790 Z0.0197
    N1800 G01 Z0.0000 F3
    N1810 G03 X2.5262 Y0.5684 Z-0.2513 I0.1131 J-0.1131
    N1820 G01 X2.6208 Y0.4738 Z-0.3850
    N1830 X2.5262 Y0.5684 F8.56
    N1840 G02 X2.5262 Y0.7946 I0.1131 J0.1131
    N1850 G03 X2.5262 Y0.5684 I0.1131 J-0.1131
    N1860 G01 X2.9384 Y0.1562
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    N1900 G01 X2.3065 Y0.0323
    N1910 G03 X2.2379 Y-0.2237 I0.3819 J-0.2395
    N1920 G01 X2.7362 Y-0.3572
    N1930 G02 X2.8246 Y-0.5103 I-0.0324 J-0.1207
    N1940 G01 X2.8116 Y-0.5586
    N1950 G02 X2.7232 Y-0.6470 I-0.1207 J0.0324
    N1960 G01 X2.1602 Y-0.7979
    N1970 G02 X1.9661 Y-0.7979 I-0.0971 J0.3622
    N1980 G01 X1.7301 Y-0.7347
    N1990 G02 X1.6165 Y-0.6477 I0.0485 J0.1811
    N2000 G01 X1.6107 Y-0.6378
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    N2040 G02 X-2.4722 Y0.8089 I0.0403 J0.4607
    N2050 G01 X1.4250 Y0.4679
    N2060 G03 X1.6452 Y0.5167 I0.0327 J0.3736
    N2070 G01 X1.9126 Y0.6711
    N2080 G02 X2.1972 Y0.7086 I0.1875 J-0.3248
    N2090 G01 X2.3581 Y0.6654
    N2100 G02 X2.5262 Y0.5684 I-0.0971 J-0.3622
    N2110 G03 X2.7525 Y0.5684 I0.1131 J0.1131
    N2120 G00 Z0.1000
    N2130 M09 (Coolant off)
    N2140 M05
    N2150 M05 M30

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1538

    Thanks Sniper - appreciate the G code. And good to know my very tight draw bar is not overcaution.............

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    11

    machine lift

    A 2 ton lift can lift the tormach, but try to find a larger one. They create a dangerous situation. Problems to be aware of;
    a) not all chinese 2 ton hoists are made of similar duty and thickness steel.
    b) the rating is lift capacity when the drop chain is near the base of the lift bar. But the mill wont reach the bench so you have to go to out to the last hole in the lift bar, now your down to 1 ton or less. But because you need the pallet jack, it still will barely clear the table top.
    c) i rented a big brand new lift and the hydraulic ram could just barely lift the mill.
    d) the tormach balance bar is a must.
    our mill is in a garage, and can be moved around with our pallet jack with ease. to do over again, i would rent the largest lift you can find, or better, get a small forklift. Then use the pallet to move inside.

    lifting 1200 lbs a foot off the ground is fun. Three feet is Scary when using something that was designed for 350 chevy engines.
    Hide the kids
    Hibo

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