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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57

    3x2m plasma table project/log

    Hi huys, great forum extremly helpful for DIY projects.

    First i was thinking of buyng a torchmate2 kit, then i realised i could only afford a TM1 and after i realised i could do it myself and make great savings.

    So i'm on a budget about 2000$ (without the steel)

    I ordered the steel yesterday.

    Now comes the hard part, i'm thinking to use linear motion guides for both X and Y (igus drylin T tk01-20 or THK SSR) i'm waiting on the THK quote so i could decide, i'm leaning on the THK right now.

    I will use rack&pinion wich my engineer is disigning right now (i hope )

    As for the drives&steppers i really have no ideea what to choose

    gekcodrive
    granite VSD-A
    cncdriver.com controler

    for motors i GUESS 5nm - 600ozin steppers will do

    the thing i have no ideea of is the power source (nuts)

    any kinf of help/oppinion will help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    759
    look at www.kelinginc.net or www.candcnc.com
    and have a look at their power supplies. I don't know what your main voltage is ( I am guessing 220), you need to tell either supplier what it is.
    You can build one yourself as well.
    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
    -RedGreen show.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    things got a litle clear

    i ordered the electronics/steppers from dubble (including the power suply)

    the THK rails are way off my budget, they quote almost 4k USD wit taxes. so i'll order the igus T tomorow.

    the sad part is i got shiping dates for 15 days and i can finish the steel work in 2 days.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cremaliera+sina.jpg  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    759
    Look at BishopWisecarver rails and vee bearings, or even skate bearings, which can be found cheaply here www.vxb.com
    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy"
    -RedGreen show.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    the vee rails for my aplication seem a lot more expensive than the igus T, my table will be 7.2X11 feet , the rails from vxb.com are not that long so i guess i'll go igus for the short axis and maybe something like in the picture for the long one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sina rulmenti cremaliera.jpg  

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    just finished the sides of the table, i'll post some pictures monday (forgot my camera home today )

    it cost me 9 tubes 60x40x2.5 thats 220$, it should be 8 tubes but my engineer friend cut the last one in the wrong spot (nuts) , good thing the steel suplier is right in front of my shop

    i think i'll wait and weld it together after i install the rack, it will make drilling a litlle easyer.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    12
    Hey Gallop,

    Rick at Superior Bearing is great to deal with for V-Bearings and Rail.

    www.superiorbearing.com

    gdb

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    the sides, side no 2 warped a litlle (overweld it) (nuts) , i hanged it and put some weight on and heat it a litle bit .. if its not straight tomorow i will make another one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails side1.JPG   side2.jpg  

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    62
    You need a solid bench with some good clamps to jig the piece up before you weld. That will stop most welding distortion. Or, use an oxy-fuel flame to pull the frame to level.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    Quote Originally Posted by Dale Heart View Post
    You need a solid bench with some good clamps to jig the piece up before you weld. That will stop most welding distortion. Or, use an oxy-fuel flame to pull the frame to level.

    tx for the post, i don't have oxy

    i'll just make another side.

    update , igus rails coming on monday and motors& controlers next week thanks to dubble

    found a shop capable of making 3 meter long rack, i'm going to visit them monday morning.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    i got the motors moving with mach3 tx to dubble.

    now i got only 3 weeks to wait for the rails .

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    31

    Smile

    Bekx,

    Just had a look at your build pix. How come your shed / workshop is so tidy and uncluttered?

    You're a disgrace to the home tinkering profession. By rights your shed should be chocablock full of equipment, materials, useful junk and sundry items.

    Hang your head in shame!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    yup i'm realy ashamed of my shop, i don't have a lathe and nothing cnc yet (or the motors spinning , cuting virtual shets of metal count???)


    but sometimes things like these apear in my shop
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails p2.JPG   4.jpg  

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    finaly got some time to work on my table.

    yesterday i painted it with red primer but forgot to take some pics.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 22112007(005).jpg   22112007(002).jpg   23112007.jpg   22112007(003).jpg  


  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1260
    Hey there bekx, Looking good so far. If it will not cause you to much of a rework I'd turn those rack gears with the gear teeth to the bottom side. Turned tooth down debris will not accumulate in the teeth.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    i thought about turning the teeth down but for now its easyer this way.

    my concern right now its the alignment of my table, everything is 1-2 mm off at one end, and thats after i twicked it a litlle, u think 2 mm is too much??

    the gantry is moving freely tho,

    anyway i intend to make another gantry from aluminium profile 80/60 or something like that

    tomorow i'll get a long stainless shaft 15 mm and maybe will fit the long axy's motor

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1260
    If you have the precision rail down both sides of the table they need to be in exact alignment. your table rails can be out a pretty good bit without causing to much grief.

    I used 1 rail on only 1 side of my table to guide the gantry in a straight line. For the other side of the table I used cold rolled flat bar with wheels on top & bottom. I really didn't want the second side to do anything but roll.

    I am using oxy/fuel which creates much more heat than plasma. I was afraid if both sides of the gantry were on captive guides, hest on the gantry might make it "grow" enough in length to either bow the gantry or create a bind situation. With rack & pinion on both sides of the table & master/slave arrangement on the drive motors it's really very solid.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    the rails are paralell but the table is 2 mm smaller then expected at one side, my concern is the pinions will not fit the racks perfectly at that end, thats why i keep the racks with the teeth up right now, will have all the time to modify it when i cut flanges and brackets in a second

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1260
    Quote Originally Posted by bekx View Post
    the rails are paralell but the table is 2 mm smaller then expected at one side, my concern is the pinions will not fit the racks perfectly at that end, thats why i keep the racks with the teeth up right now, will have all the time to modify it when i cut flanges and brackets in a second
    Well being as your racks are bolted on you can shim behind the racls to make them parallel with your guide rails.

    I bolted my racks to a strip of 1/4" X 2" strap then bolted the strap to my table in case I had to do the same.

    I need to shim behind one of my racks too. I have a bit of run out on 1 side. I really haven't figured out why the top of my table where the rails are is as near square & parallwe as I can measure with a common tape measure.

    I can only assume the sides of the 6" box tube where the rack is mounted is cupped in a bit.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    57
    i must say all this is a lot harder then it seems.

    after making one motor flange myself i realised i'm not that good with the milling machine, so i made a drawing and went to 3 diffrent machine shops to check the price and build time.

    so shop no 1 - will call me in 2-3 days.. that was thursday (no call till today)

    shop no 2- 80 USD/pice ...they will come to me to weld something for them eventualy and i will rip them off.

    shop no 3- will get me the stuff done monday morning for 25$/p

    with a litlle luck i will got x-y movement next week.

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