[G59]

Correct me if I'm wrong.

[mactec54]

dbtoutfit

Remove the jumper that he put from L1 to L3, the idea was alright, but down the line if you had of turned the coolant pump on, it would of been interesting

Remove the connection for the coolant pump,at CB12, this will have to have a separate small VFD to run it

Connect the 2 transformers to the L 1 & L2 ( 1 ) of the transformers is already connected to L1 & L2 , the other Transformer only needs (1) wire moving from L3 to L1

Have you run a 4 wire input cable

[G59]

Connect the 2 transformers to the L 1 & L2 ( 1 ) of the transformers is already connected to L1 & L2 , the other Transformer only needs (1) wire moving from L3 to L1

I agree, so my rendition in the schematic was correct. In your picture though, yeah do like Mactec says.

Also, what voltage are the transformers set to. Pay attention to that also. You may have to move jumpers there too.( 1st page of your pdf describes proper jumpering according to input voltage.

In your case,
Attachment 261520

Mactec, can you confirm?

[mactec54]

G59

Yes the Spindle VFD Drive is Yaskawa, they were custom for these machines, spindle motor is also Yaskawa

[dbtoutfit]

Thanks Guys I will get on it in the morning.

Eric

[dbtoutfit]

No to the 4th wire input question.

[G59]

Mactec, if he is running the original VFD that monitors the input amperage(in rush), it will always fault. An over amperage fault that is. This is why you upsize the VFD so it doesn't trigger an over amp condition. Originally on three phase the amps would be much less. But on single phase the amp rating should be something like 1.7 times greater for this to work.

I can't remember anymore, it's been years since I did this.

[mactec54]

G59

The VFD on this machine is already over rated for the motor it is driving, hoping he has the smallest Hp motor, they had available, I have run the VFD in these machines with 230v single Phase

dbtoutfit said he had it running, well almost, so it had to be already wired for the 230v power input to the transformers, it's always good to check though, with doing anything like this

[dbtoutfit]

What is the forth wire?

[G59]

In single phase 240V system, there should be no 4th wire or it isn't needed. Black and Red are HOT, and bare copper is your ground. If you have the White in your cable,(4th) wire, you don't need it.

Here some useful info.

1) A black wire which is often known as the "hot" wire, which carries the current in to the fixture.
2) Another "hot" wire which may be blue, red or white (if it is white the code actually requires it to painted or otherwise marked one of the other colors, but often it is not) which also carries current in to the fixture.
3) A bare copper wire called the ground, the sole function of which is to enhance user safety. That's it, no neutral. Now, if you are paying attention, then you are probably wondering "If there isn't a neutral wire then how is the circuit completed?" The answer is that when one hot wire is negative, then the other is positive, so the two hot wires complete the circuit together because they are "out of phase". This is why 240 volt circuits connect to double pole breakers that are essentially two single pole breakers tied together. In the main panel, every other breaker is out of phase with the adjoining breakers. So, in essence 240 volt wiring is powered by 2 - 120 volt hot wires that are 180 degrees out of phase.
I previously mentioned "straight" 240 volt appliances, but there is another class of 240 volt equipment; some appliances (such as clothes dryers and ranges) use 240 volt current to power their main function (drying clothes or cooking food) but use 120 volt current to power accessories such as the clock on your stove or the light inside the oven, or the digital readout on your dryer controls. That is why some 240 volt circuits have four wires:

1) A black wire which is often known as the "hot" wire, which carries the current in to the fixture.
2) Another "hot" wire which is red, which also carries current in to the fixture.
3) A white wire called the neutral which completes the electrical circuit for the 120 volt accessories only.
4) A bare copper wire called the ground, the sole function of which is to enhance user safety.

At one time, the code allowed for one insulated wire to function as both ground and neutral in 120 / 240 volt combo circuits, but now all such circuits must use the 4 wire scheme. This is why your new dryer (or electric range) might have 4 prongs on its plug and your old dryer receptacle only has 3 holes. In which case article 250.140 of the 2005 N.E.C. (National Electric Code) allows for the "pigtail" (the cord and plug assembly) to be changed to match the old 3 wire receptacle as long as certain conditions are met. The National Electric Code allows that, but your local code might not, so check first, or even better yet make a deal with the appliance dealer to do it for you.

[mactec54]

In single phase 240V system, there should be no 4th wire or it isn't needed. Black and Red are HOT, and bare copper is your ground. If you have the White in your cable,(4th) wire, you don't need it.

Not always the case, when converting any system like this, from 3 phase, to Single Phase, if you use 120v Single Phase anywhere in the conversion, you need to have a neutral, so you need to have a 4 wire input

Most of these conversions, have 120v feeds to different parts of the machine, which need to have a neutral, it would not be safe to do it any other way

[G59]

I previously mentioned "straight" 240 volt appliances, but there is another class of 240 volt equipment; some appliances (such as clothes dryers and ranges) use 240 volt current to power their main function (drying clothes or cooking food) but use 120 volt current to power accessories such as the clock on your stove or the light inside the oven, or the digital readout on your dryer controls. That is why some 240 volt circuits have four wires:

1) A black wire which is often known as the "hot" wire, which carries the current in to the fixture.
2) Another "hot" wire which is red, which also carries current in to the fixture.
3) A white wire called the neutral which completes the electrical circuit for the 120 volt accessories only.
4) A bare copper wire called the ground, the sole function of which is to enhance user safety.

I agree Mactec as described.

[dbtoutfit]

Looks like I have to rethink my schematic.

For now here is my motor badge/plate.
Looks as though I have a 5hp spindle.

Are we sure if I get it rewired its not going to be in vein over the Spindle and VFD phase Alarm?

Eric

[G59]

There is no issue with the motor plates. Damn near identical. Reworking your schematic? I posted a revised schematic for you, did you compare it to the original one you posted? Do like Mactec has mentioned and you'll be up and running within a couple hours.

[dbtoutfit]

Yes I have your schematic. I was going to use it but I wasn't sure if it was set for the "4wire" setup your guys were talking about.

BTW.. Its safe to say I have a 5hp motor at this point?

[G59]

3hp continuous, 5hp no more than 15 minutes(intermittent).

[dbtoutfit]

Since My spindle is such a small HP is the VFD going to reduce the HP even more. Also do we know if the VFD is not going to Alarm out anyways due to the lack of a 3rd phase?

[G59]

what is the model # of your yaskawa vfd? 22p2, 22p7, 25p5?

[dbtoutfit]

25p5

[G59]

25p5 is good up to 7.5HP or 5.5KW. So no problems there. It won't derate your horsepower at all.

Technically according to the manual, it doesn't fault because of missing third phase.
But it does monitor bad phase angle and that fault code is F604. You should be good with that motor and VFD combo.

It probably faulted because of the tye in you did bringing in a fake third phase to L3