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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Plasma, EDM / Waterjet Machines > Waterjet General Topics > Hypertherm 1250 with a T100M torch??? Short consumable life
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6

    Hypertherm 1250 with a T100M torch??? Short consumable life

    I just got my first plasma table. It is set up with a Hypertherm 1250 machine but uses a T100M machine torch. Wondering if that's ok as the T80 is the proper torch for the 1250. Seems to cut but I am going through nozzles like crazy. Lucky to cut 1 piece per nozzle. I have been using the 100amp consumables that came with the torch. Should I be using 80 amp consumables because the 1250 is a smaller machine than the 1650 the T100 is made for? Or even lower amp consumables based on the thickness of steel I am cutting?

    No torch height control so the pierce is close to the piece unfortunately. I'll be researching how to add a control. But the guy I got the machine from didn't have this much trouble with consumables....


    Also should i be using shielded or non shielded consumables? I've heard both from various people.


    Currently running for consumables:

    nozzle: 220011
    electrode: 220037
    shield: 220047



    Is it ok to be running the 100amp consumables for cutting mostly 1/4" and some 1/8" using my 1250?



    Thanks in advance for the help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    268
    Im not to sure about running a T100M on the 1250, hopefully Jim Colt will see your post and answer, i run the T80M on my 1250 and for cutting 1/8 i use fine cut consumables @ 40 amp and it just flies through it with THC and i read on here where someone is cuttng 1/4" with the same and having good luck with that, 100 amp seems kind of over kill and the 1250 is a 80 amp plasma cutter. With out THC i would suggest sheilded 40 to 60 amp nozzles to prevent spatter from sticking to the nozzle when piercing. Also make sure you have 90/120 psi dry clean air.

    EDD

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6
    So I got a dryer. A new fancy filter. New 80 amp consumables.

    And it's about the same.


    after a couple cuts.


    Cuts are better untill the tip goes of course.

    Dryer and filter. 25 ft from the compressor like the instructions said...


    Vid of a cut...


    I watched the plasmas pressure gauge on the front panel and it seems to be getting enough air throughout the the cut.


    Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. I killed 2 tips to cut out 6-8 tabs just now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    62
    i have a 1000 used it for quite a while then noticed it seemed to be going through a lot of ht e nozzles not so much the electrode but lots of the nozzles. I talked to a guy he said to take the outer shield off with the plasma turned off and measure with ohm meter from nozzle to table should not have continuity mine did down in the bottom of the case there is a diode block that goes bad they sent me the kit took it all apart in the very bottom of the case below the circuit board there it rests i could not tell much wrong with it but the guy says thats whats wrong so there we were he says to put plenty of the dielectric grease under it to help it cool done reassemble allparts loand behold it cut great and i could hardly believe it the parts kit i think was 80.00 works like it used to i hope this helps you out give hypertherm a call they helped me out and were quite nice about it

    thanks donnelson

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    514
    Without some kind of Z to move the torch up to pierce height I would use drag tips and start every cut from an edge or you will blow out the nozzles. Correct cut height and speed are vital to consummable life. From the picture it looks like 1/4" plate are you using the cut charts for the 1250 to select your cut speed? Hopefully Jim Colt will chime in...

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6
    Yes it's 1/4. And I am using cut charts for the 1250 with Machine torch.

    I guess I'm going to end up being the Z control. I will have to manually move it up and down for each cut with the switch located near the laptop mount.

    Is it possible to add THC? This table uses a Windows 98 laptop running Supercam software.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    2415
    Supercam is a Torchmate product. They sell a stand-alone THC unit with it's own lifter and electronics. You will have to download their catalog to get current pricing since it's no longer on the web page for the product.

    The other alternative is a retrofit to a full 3 axis control and a controller that uses MACH3. It won't run on Windows 98 and laptops are not recommended. Laptops in general are a poor choice for a shop environment.

    General rule of thumb is to "pierce high and cut low". If you have a Z that is controllable from the toolpath software you can easily setup a separate pierce height and cut height and even pierce delay. SheetCAM is a low cost package that offers integrated plasma tools and cutting. Even without a full blown THC you can at least control the piercing process more closely.

    If you do elect to upgrade the table to full 3 axis control then you then open up the option to use the table for other processes ( like routing or drilling) that need toolpath control of Z.

    TOM CAUDLE
    www.CandCNC.com

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    155
    Brink,

    My $02. cents worth is that you are going to need to invest in a refrigerated air drier. The photo you posted of the tip is exactly what I get when I use my 1650 on jobs that don't have refrigerated driers on-site.

    What size receiver/tank are you running? Do you have an auto-drain valve?

    Good luck and keep us posted.

    Tom

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    21
    So you have water table....there is no need to cut that thickness of material submerged in water, regulate water level 1/2" below material. You don't have THC, if nozzle is in water after air stops to flow then this is the reason of short consumable life. Nozzle must be always perfect dry. Other reason can be in bad contact of - pole and material, or that small switch on 1250 isn't in middle position for continuous cutting. On that video I can see that height cut isn't good, on proper hight you must see sparks in V. Just one cut on too small distance can destroy nozzle. Can you put here detailed picture of electrode, maybe this help us to diagnose the problem?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6
    Seems a lot like my trouble is just the lack of THC. I need to be right there going up and down for lead in, lead out, and any changes in the height of the material.


    Did this today with it. No problems. Still on 1 tip....










  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    599
    where abouts are you located brink?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6
    Sylvan Lake Alberta....why do you ask?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    2247
    Sorry I wasn't able to reply sooner....was out of country on a family vacation.

    The nozzle picture tells a story.....it certainly looks like the pierce height and pierce delay times are incorrect. If you are not using a THC (Torch Height Control) with full IHS (Initial Height Sensing) to control the pierce and cut height accurately...then you will get nozzle/shield damage on the first pierce...which affects cut quality on every part.

    It looks like you are getting the job done....however your cut quality and cut costs will be much better with better height control of the torch.

    Jim colt

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    599
    If you were local I'd come give you a hand, but I am in Langley, BC.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for the thought.

    I think it's all good now. Seems to be 100% THC related...or lack there of. Specifically not having any peirce height control. I just have to get used to doing it manually I think.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    599
    Quote Originally Posted by Brink_ View Post
    Thanks for the thought.

    I think it's all good now. Seems to be 100% THC related...or lack there of. Specifically not having any peirce height control. I just have to get used to doing it manually I think.
    there is diffrent ways of having control over that some maybe cheaper to realize look into a roller ball head.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    4

    AVC&IHS

    i have a way to solve your problem.
    you should modificate your z-axis first,you need a tep driver and a step motor and control circuit.
    when your CNC give out START signal,the control circuit control the motor down,when the torch contact the mild steel,the torch up and start the pierce process.if you should use a pot to control the time of torch up.
    in the cutting process,the control circuit check the voltage between steel and the torch,compare with the AVC SET,if the actual AVC higher than AVC SET,down the torch,the actual AVC lower than AVC SET,up the torch.
    i think,change the software is not the best way.
    u can do it yourself.
    thanks

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    514
    Here is how I built my Z using an acme screw and some extruded.

    The micro switch near the torch is for finding the material top.

    John
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Plasma012.jpg  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    2415
    Quote Originally Posted by lpbany View Post
    i have a way to solve your problem.
    you should modificate your z-axis first,you need a tep driver and a step motor and control circuit.
    when your CNC give out START signal,the control circuit control the motor down,when the torch contact the mild steel,the torch up and start the pierce process.if you should use a pot to control the time of torch up.
    in the cutting process,the control circuit check the voltage between steel and the torch,compare with the AVC SET,if the actual AVC higher than AVC SET,down the torch,the actual AVC lower than AVC SET,up the torch.
    i think,change the software is not the best way.
    u can do it yourself.
    thanks
    YEP! That's all you need to do. Oh wait, he left out the part where you need to go to night school for basic electronics and then learn how to solder small components then buy some test equipment to troubleshoot when it does not work the first time and.....might as well save the money on the stepper drives build your own.

    TOM CAUDLE
    www.CandCNC.com
    Totally Modular CNC Electronics

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