[ViperTX]

Could be CR...just got the kit a few months ago.

Kalvin....the tub idea is okay...just frame it in with some plywood and add some of that expanding foam....and you can use the frame to support a full enclosure. I built mine using the Hoss's ideas and MRC's dimension (which were a bit off). I should have used at a minimum a 36 inch depth, the width at 48 inches. If you're doing a full enclosure and plan to work items wider then the X3 table, then plan for some plexiglas windows on the sides of the full enclosure.

Paul

[Kalvin]

Originally Posted by ViperTX View Post

You will have to grind down those pins for the CNC fusion Z-axis motor mount to sit flush.Paul

You must have an older kit. I think the newer Z mounts come drilled for the pins to pass through.

CR.

Does the Z mount not sit on top of the column flange? The first picture is (borrowed) from MRM RCModels thread. The next two are of my column flange. I would only see having to grind those pins if the Z mount sits between the column and the base.

My Z mount does not have any holes for these pins.

Kalvin

[ViperTX]

Z-mount sits on top of the column flange. On my system the taper pins were not flush with the top of the column flange surface.

Paul

[Kalvin]

OK, finally had a little time to work on this again.

Finished my stand, so I started on the conversion. First on the list was to tap the Y axis ball screw and build a stop. I read of others experiences and figured it was time well spent.

I'm ready to mount the Y axis ball nut but got to thinking? Leave it loose to adjust later? Kinda hard to get under neath to tighten it up later?


Also, the alignment pins on the saddle and the base can be tapped out with a punch. They might be slightly tapered and need to be punched from the top down, but come out real easy. I remember reading about having to grind these off.

Ok, back to work......

[Mariss Freimanis]

Kalvin,

I just looked at the pix of your work. Let me say it looks like a very nicely executed machine.

I am a little concerned about your gearing. You look like you have a 5TPI screw and judging from your bevel gear, about an additional 10:1 reduction. From the looks of it you seem to have a mount for a NEMA-23 motor. If it's meant for a step motor, you may be headed for trouble. Here's the reasoning:

A 5TPI screw with 10:1 reduction makes it a 50TPI screw. If a step motor is intended, figure it as 200 in-oz running torque motor. The thrust you will get then is:

Lbs = in-oz * TPI * pi / 8, or about 4,000 lbs.

That thrust comes at the expense of speed. If you plan to use Mach3 at a 45kHz kernel speed, you get 1,350 RPM with a 10 microstep drive. IPM = RPM / TPI so you would get a maximum 27 IPM rapid if my guesses are correct.

A 1:1 reduction to your screw would give a better mix of 400lbs thrust, 270 IPM rapids.

Mariss

[Kalvin]

Hi Mariss,

Thank you for taking the time warn me of possible problems.

The bevel gears you see in the previous posts are from the original Z axis hand crank. I'll be removing them (actually they are already gone).

I'm converting my Sieg X3 over using a CNCFusion kit. It is set up with direct drive for the X and Y using Nema 23's. The Z is a Nema 34 belt driving(1:1) the ballscrew. I shouldn't mess up too bad.... .

One of the reasons I post my progress and pictures here is hoping that someone will give me feedback when I mess up. Thank's for keeping an eye on me.

Cheers, Kalvin

[Kalvin]

Anyone remember reading a post on setting up the X-Y on the X3 conversion.

I read it somewhere, not sure if it was here or on the CNCFusion site but can not seem to find it. It gave some pretty good tips on lining up the ball screws and adjusting the ways.

Thanks, Kalvin

[HackMax]

... A 5TPI screw with 10:1 reduction makes it a 50TPI screw...

Actually it's a 2:1 reduction. I think it was 24 teeth to 48 if I remember right but you sure have made me think about my current setup. Thanks Mariss. I need to get ballscrews on my X3 more than ever now lol - at least on the Z axis. After Christmas hpefully. Also can you elaborate on how you calculate the kernal speed and rpms to get the IPM. I would like to get a figure on my setup. Thanks again.

Rick

[ViperTX]

Kalvin what I did was install the saddle and adjust the gibs. Then I installed the table and adjusted the gibs. Once all that was done I installed the Y-axis ballscrew, locktite the screws after the motor mount was in the proper place (this is to avoid any bending of the ballscrew.

Then I installed the X-axis ballscrew.

I just wired the steppers (Keling Steppers), the control box is complete, I'm setting up MACH 3 on the computer, so I can connect everything up.

Paul

[dwessels]

[QUOTE=Kalvin;539548]

Finished my stand, so I started on the conversion. First on the list was to tap the Y axis ball screw and build a stop. I read of others experiences and figured it was time well spent.

[QUOTE]

Kalvin,

How did you tap thread on the ball screw? Did you take off the ball nuts to work on it?

Thanks

[Kalvin]

Yes, took it apart. The kit came with a little tube that you place on the end of the ballscrew to keep the bearings from falling out when unthread the ballnut.

(I did this over a big piece of drop cloth.....you know.....just incase.)

Heat shrinked the end of the ballscrew to protect it from the lathe chuck and went to work. Tapped it for M5X0.8 Used a hard rubber washer from a tap repair kit. When everthing is finished I'll blue locktite the screw.

Cheers, Kalvin

[Kalvin]

What do you guys think? My aft way on my table has a void in the casting.

See the pictures below. Should I take this back to Grizzly and see if they'll stand behind it or just live with it? I've heard Grizzly is pretty good with customer support.

I'm a fair distance away and I'm sure the shipping on this lite little piece would not be cheap to ship there and back.

The pictures are not the best. There is one main void with a small area of pitting around it. Hard to get a good shot with the reflection from the way and the closeup of it.

Just to mention this is a brand new mill, never used.

Kalvin

[Kalvin]

Opps? No option to delete?

[dwessels]

Yes, took it apart. The kit came with a little tube that you place on the end of the ballscrew to keep the bearings from falling out when unthread the ballnut.

(I did this over a big piece of drop cloth.....you know.....just incase.)

Heat shrinked the end of the ballscrew to protect it from the lathe chuck and went to work. Tapped it for M5X0.8 Used a hard rubber washer from a tap repair kit. When everthing is finished I'll blue locktite the screw.

Cheers, Kalvin

Thanks!

I am going to give it a try.
2 questions:
1. What is the diameter of the tube that the kit came with? My was preload and didn't come with the tubes.
2. When you drilled the hole on the lathe, what speed did you turn it at?

Thanks!

[Kalvin]

Thanks!

I am going to give it a try.
2 questions:
1. What is the diameter of the tube that the kit came with? My was preload and didn't come with the tubes.
2. When you drilled the hole on the lathe, what speed did you turn it at?

Thanks!

1: The tube is 0.5 inches. I'm guessing a 0.5 inch bolt would work, or copper water pipe? It was a loose fit.
2: Not sure. I went slow. I have a mini-lathe and the control knob was still in white band. I didn't want to heat up the ballscrew. It was actually very easy to drill. I've read only the outside of the ballscrew is case hardened.

Mine was a preload ballnut also. There was only the one tube in my kit plus a little warning tag telling you how to use it.

Cheers, Kalvin

[HackMax]

What do you guys think? My aft way on my table has a void in the casting.

See the pictures below. Should I take this back to Grizzly and see if they'll stand behind it or just live with it? I've heard Grizzly is pretty good with customer support.

I'm a fair distance away and I'm sure the shipping on this lite little piece would not be cheap to ship there and back.

The pictures are not the best. There is one main void with a small area of pitting around it. Hard to get a good shot with the reflection from the way and the closeup of it.

Just to mention this is a brand new mill, never used.

Kalvin

I don't think there is really any cause for concern if the area has no effect on the table travel. If a metal chip can get caught in it tho and jam up the table I would have to ask for a replacement. If it is never exposed to swarf though it probably be more helpful than harmful since it would help collect and disperse lubricating oil. Pretty much your call.

Rick

[Crevice Reamer]

Call Griz support. Have the part number of the casting handy. They MIGHT just ship you a new one. Not sure about their Canadian support though.

CR.

[ataxy]

did you went to get it in the state, i tought grizzly did not deal north of the border because of busybee

[Kalvin]

Yes, I went to Bellingham to pick it up.

I kinda thought it wasn't really a big problem, but posted it here in case someone could give me a good reason to pursue it.

All in all it's the only thing I found during the whole tear down and cleaning.

On another note, I'm pretty well ready to start getting the electronics ready. I was at the electronics store yesterday. Picked up some connectors, bus strips, etc. I'm going to copy RCModel's idea and build everything up on a 3/4" piece of plywood. This way I can build my case with the machine.

I don't like the way the wires come out of the steppers. They are just potted at the exit from the stepper. I would prefer some type of terminals to connect into.

Do most of the guys place a connector at the stepper and at the control box?
These connectors, back shells, and pins are not cheap. I was thinking one connector at the controller box.

I'm off to work today so I can't play. Maybe later this evening.

Cheers, Kalvin

[Crevice Reamer]

You only need connectors for X, Y, Z on the driver end of the cable. You MIGHT want a connector on each end for the A (Fourth Axis if you have one.) cable.

To connect the motor wires: 1. Stagger connections along length of wires. 2 make low profile splices. 3. Solder each splice. 4. Cover whole thing with heat-shrink-tubing that you remembered to slide onto cable first. 5. Shrink the tubing with heat gun/hair dryer. Cover finished/installed cable with wire covers from auto parts store. Advance Auto Parts has em.

You can use THIS wire for motor cables and home/limit switches. Ground the drain wire ONLY at the driver end.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Servo-Motor-Wire...3286.m20.l1116

These gold-pin connectors are good and fairly cheap:

http://cgi.ebay.com/CNC-STEPPER-MOTO...713.m153.l1262

If you don't already HAVE them, these are excellent home switches:

http://cgi.ebay.com/6-CNC-LIMIT-SWIT...742.m153.l1262

They are NO, so only for home switches. Limit switches need to be NC. the whole set of 6 switches costs less than ONE switch would cost at Radio Shack.

CR.