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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > MetalWork Discussion > How do you automate deburring?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77

    How do you automate deburring?

    Right now I am hand filing all these little parts I am making (1" square)

    I have been looking into getting a Vibratory Tumbler. Anyone use this? Will this deburr all the egdes? What kind of media should I use to do that?

    Is there a better way?

    Thanks,
    Swami

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1876
    I do 90% of my deburring on the CNC using a 45° cutter and/or rounding corners with the EM as I machine the part. Gives great consistant results, is fast, is not prone to human error, (an easy way to scrap a $2,000.00 part is to have your deburr guy gouge it or 'over-deburr' it or drop it or scratch it etc etc..), and frees up man hours to be doing something else to make money.

    I also have a small rock polisher (about 10" dia.) with plastic media for occasions when the print calls out tumbling. That should work nicely for your parts provided they're alum or non-clear plastics or most light to moderate steels. I've never tumbled exotics, it might or might not work.
    Matt
    San Diego, Ca

    ___ o o o_
    [l_,[_____],
    l---L - □lllllll□-
    ( )_) ( )_)--)_)

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    634
    It depends upon what the parent material is and how rounded over you want the edges.

    You could put them in a rock tumbler. I've seen someone freeze rubber parts in dry ice and then put them in a tumbler.

    Media changes depending upon how smooth you want the finish. Usually its some kind of ceramic cone or ball bearings.

    A less severe method is to use a vibratory bowl.

    If you just want corner chamfering, you might be able to set up a fixture and use a flat bed sander.

  4. #4
    I'm in the same boat at Swami. Most of our parts are small aluminum pieces with simple curves. All I would like are smooth edges and corners since the faces are already being polished.
    Proud owner of a Series II Bridgeport.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    340
    I saw a site where they showed parts going into a chamber, this was flooded with gas and ignited, the "explosion" melted all the burrs off the ali parts as they are much thinner than the bulk of the metal.

    Perhaps not one for home use.

    This site is about home anodizing and you need a good finish for that, he uses tumblers and some are homebuilt. I think he mentions a supplier of media that is suitable. BTW the anodizing booklet he sells is quite good (no affiliation).

    http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html

    Graham

  6. #6
    Explosion, hmmm. That sounds right up my ally. I'll give it a try and get back to you
    Proud owner of a Series II Bridgeport.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77
    A chamfer bit would make it look really trick, but the faces would still need work.

    So does it sound like a Vibe bowl/Vibratory Tumbler is the ticket?
    Some sites I have found you can't buy less than 20lbs of medium.

    Does anyone have a specific media suggestion for deburring aluminum? And what would be even better is a site where you can get it in 5lb bags, lol.

    I would be happy with very rounded corners for most of these parts.


    Swami

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1873
    Glass blasting de-burrs quickly, removes small machining marks and leaves a very nice satin cast like finish, media is available in most any grit from x-fine to course.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    126
    We vibratory deburr exotics here on a daily basis.

    Works good, but time in the machine determines amount of edge break.

    It does have it's limitations though so be careful.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    1876
    ty,

    Any more limitations than doing alum or mild steel? Thanks for the info.
    Matt
    San Diego, Ca

    ___ o o o_
    [l_,[_____],
    l---L - □lllllll□-
    ( )_) ( )_)--)_)

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3154
    If you have rough or non-crititcal weldment parts (ie plasma cut). I have thrown a scoop of sand in cement mixer and tumbled. This is really frickin noisy though.
    Also if you are doing mostly square or straight edge parts you might want to invest in a "Bur-Beaver" its kinda like a wood jointer where you slide the part over a cutter for your deburr/chamfer operation.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    126
    You gotta be carefule with aluminum.

    It will eat it up quickly sometimes. Just gotta watch it and figure out how long to put it in.

    Timers can be a big help, so you don't forget.

    Some internal corners, etc can be hard to reach, requiring different shape media. They sell everything from rounds to triangles.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77
    That sounds okay. I would rather deal with something that could remove too much material, rather than a system that can't remove enough.

    I missed a great deal on Ebay the otherday for a simple plastic bowled job. $70 or so. It looks like new ones cannot be found for under $99.

    Thanks,
    Swami

  14. #14
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

    Something like that would be fine for your sized parts.
    Proud owner of a Series II Bridgeport.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77
    So, I ordered a bowl. Now I cannot seem to figure out which media to use. I am finding a lot of stuff for cleaning ammo cases, and rusty parts! argh.

    What is a good (and specific) media to use to deburr small aluminum parts in a vibe bowl?

    Thanks,
    Swami

  16. #16
    http://shorinternational.com/TumblingMedia.htm

    For the cutdown part of the finishing use either the white or the green plastic pyramids and

    For the polishing part use either walnut shell or corn cob charged with red rouge, Blue Magic, ruby powder or Linde A.
    Proud owner of a Series II Bridgeport.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3154
    A place I used to work used sawdust.
    I believe the action of tumbling where the parts hit each other and the walls of the unit create the deburring action and the sawdust was a cushioning and polishing agent. Cushioning from dents and scraps due to the collisions. I dont know if a bowl works in a similar fashion though.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3154
    I have to call jinx on cold fusion.
    It sounds like he definately has more experience than me judging by the more professional sounding answer.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77
    yeah he has been good for a trick or two!

    Thanks for the link CF, thats perfect.
    Swami

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    77
    hmmmm after reading their "how-to" I learned a few things I didn't expect. Its talking about 24 hour runtimes. (I hope this thing isn't too loud!) and it talks about running a flo-through system during the cutdown.

    Ya know, "x-acto" knife is sounding kind of appealing now, lol

    Swami

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