[3axisrookie]

So here is another one to add to my newbie questions.

When you guys buy parallels, vee blocks, 123 blocks, how do you keep them from rusting?

Bought some stuff a few weeks ago and noticed today already rusting. Wd40 got most of it off, so decided to spray everything really good and let it sit for a while.

So wondering if there is something standard you guys do when get new stuff, or to keep them rust free as you own them.

Thanks.

[big_mak]

I find the more you use them the less they rust. If they sit still, they are gonna rust!

What is it "A rolling stone Gathers no Moss"????

[3axisrookie]

Have a 1/8 set of parallels and really only have been using 3 of the sizes so far. It's those 3 that are rusting, from the oils and sweat on my hands. I use them a lot. It's funny because it's all my brown & sharpe stuff that's rusting. My spi stuff is fine. I have also seen various parallels that were beat to hell, but no rust. Hopefully the wd40 will help and will try wiping them down better after I use them. But if anyone has any tips, would be appreciated.

[highspeedmazak]

Good A/C and check your coolant with a refractometer to make sure you are at the right levels and last I use gun spray and dont touch what you are not about to use the oil on your fingers is one of the most leading causes to these problems.

[big_mak]

No offense guys buy it's not the oil in your hands it's the sweat that you may not perceive as being there that is saline, and is speeding up the oxidation. Some peoples sweat is more acidic than others.

Oil is a better rust preventative.

Definately check your coolant concentrations.

For parallels I don't bother spending the $$$$ on a fancy set. Just get some from shars. I've got 2 sets and have no rust issues with them.

[Shotout]

So here is another one to add to my newbie questions.

When you guys buy parallels, vee blocks, 123 blocks, how do you keep them from rusting?

Bought some stuff a few weeks ago and noticed today already rusting. Wd40 got most of it off, so decided to spray everything really good and let it sit for a while.

So wondering if there is something standard you guys do when get new stuff, or to keep them rust free as you own them.

Thanks.

Aside from what everyone else has said I use desicant packs. I have a fair bit of stuff that doesn't get used much so the disposible desicant packs that come in most stuff these days are pretty handy. Don't know if it helps, but it doesn't hurt.

[fpworks]

When I'm not using them, I coat them in Rustlick.

Also previously mentioned, you have to keep control of the humidity level in your shop.

[ImanCarrot]

Check out this tip from Frank Ford (the man's a genius).


"Killing rust while it sleeps".

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...stremoval.html

With credit to FF.

[cam1]

Forget about WD 40. It's a penetrating oil, and doesn't work well at all at preventing rust, as it evaporates. I started using a product called Krown KL73 4 yrs. ago. It is a vegetable oil based rust inhibitor that does not evaporate or gel over time. I have my shop in a garage where steel rusts in front of your eyes, and since I strated to use this product not a single tool has a spot of rust. I spray down my machines and collets afterwards to prevent rust on the tables and ways. No more rust problems.

http://www.krownindustrial.com/produ...p?product=kl73

regards

[JDenyer232]

Here is what I do in Maine, where the summers are very humid. I mix up a 50/50 mixture of my watersoluble machining oil with water and shake the you know what out of it. I then spray it on my machine tables, vises, v blocks, parallels etc. The water portion of it evaporates and leaves a nice coating of mineral oil behind. Never any rust. And yes WD40 stinks for rust prevention. Hope this helps.

[ImanCarrot]

<agrees about the WD40. It just turns into treacle then like a hard gummy crud that you can't get off.

[3axisrookie]

Thanks. Ended up getting something from a gun shop in the area called breakfree clp. Brought home my parallells, vee blocks, and 123 blocks. Been soaking them all weekend in this stuff.

This shop has no ac. Hot and humid chicago summer. Would be better off leaving them outside laying in the grass I think. Plastic case, then inside a metal toolbox. Whatever gets left on them has no way out. Will just clean them better and hopefully this stuff helps.

[3axisrookie]

On the subject of tools, is there any way to fix the base of a depth mic? Not sure if it was just normal wear, or ran it across some burrs, but had some ugly scratches. Took it home and smoothed it with a stone. Will check tomorrow on the surface plate if I get consistent readings with different positions. But assuming it's not even. It's a mitutoyo 0-6 .001.

Any other tricks to fix it? Thanks.

[cam1]

If an equal amount is removed from the base, and the rod, then nothing will change.I'd fix it to an angle plate, and make sure that it's locked on 0 before lapping the scratches away...

regards