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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    60
    Tool makers vice... 100% I have 3 and if used correctly like said before, will hold any d.o.c my modded Taig can handle . all the Kurt and Kurt like vices are to large.. even the 3" clone from china.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    29

    Taig vise

    I buy from Enco, CDCO Tools, ebay. Info links, here, from my site. cheers! Alan

    Micro-Machine-Shop.com

    Taig Micro Mill Screwless Vises

    Vises
    ------------------------------------
    Alan

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    23
    I ended up purchasing this clamp: Vise, 3" Screwless, with Hold Down Clamps - LittleMachineShop.com
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Clamp.jpg  

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    29

    vise

    Yes that is a good one. The "toe clamps" may cover holes you need to get to in order to adjust the vise opening, though. regards, Alan
    ------------------------------------
    Alan

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedsCustom View Post
    I can't see the page with the number.

    Get a Toolmakers Precision Vise, thats what there called. Got mine on Ebay for 50.00!!!!




    -Jason
    Jason,
    Can you provide some additional info for how you attached the clamp to the table?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    525
    For a taig, I think most every vise available is too large, and absorbs too much Z axis travel. They also make bad utilization of what is actually a fairly large table. A 4" vise will leave you with roughly a 4"x3" area to clamp your work piece, and nearly 6" on either side of that which you virtually cant make use of, because the vise is in the way.

    This was my solution, and I have to say its worked out incredibly well. I'm not sure what this forums vending policy is-- i'm not currently selling these, but the thought has crossed my mind.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pmFsAxRvWI]T-Slot Vise Jaws - YouTube[/ame]

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    5742

    That's pretty clever, Dockwood.

    But I'm a little unclear as to what's going on, exactly. It's hard to tell from the video, but it looks like the jaws are aluminum, pushed by the black steel parts that exert the force. Is that correct? Or is the force only applied at the top of the jaw? I think it's better to have the steel contact the workpiece, unless it's desirable to prevent marring, in which case one can slip something in there.

    If you decide to sell these things, how much would you have to get for them?

    Andrew Werby
    www.computersculpture.com

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    525
    Quote Originally Posted by awerby View Post
    But I'm a little unclear as to what's going on, exactly. It's hard to tell from the video, but it looks like the jaws are aluminum, pushed by the black steel parts that exert the force. Is that correct? Or is the force only applied at the top of the jaw? I think it's better to have the steel contact the workpiece, unless it's desirable to prevent marring, in which case one can slip something in there.

    If you decide to sell these things, how much would you have to get for them?

    Andrew Werby
    ComputerSculpture.com ? Home Page for Discount Hardware & Software
    The aluminum jaws bolt to the tables t-slots. The steel pieces provide all of the clamping force on the workpiece.

    On the "movable jaw" only the steel piece contacts the material (atleast in a clamping manor.) On the fixed jaw (left side) the entire jaw is aluminum, so yes, the work piece is in contact with an aluminum soft jaw.

    I had initially thought this might be an issue, so I had designed a second set with a bolt-on steel section. I also made a second fixed jaw, in case it was an issue.

    So far, it hasn't been-- I rarely work on steel in this machine, so the workpiece is almost always of the same hardness or less. If rough sawn steel were to be run, i'd likely mill flat the section that would contact the soft jaw, to avoid point loading that could cause issues. I think generally, there is enough surface area where it doesnt cause an issue.

    For what its worth, I work full time as a machinist, and regularly use aluminum step jaws on rather hard steels. They hold up better than you would possibly imagine..

    as for cost-- i'll have to get back to you on that one

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by rlockwood View Post
    For a taig, I think most every vise available is too large, and absorbs too much Z axis travel. They also make bad utilization of what is actually a fairly large table. A 4" vise will leave you with roughly a 4"x3" area to clamp your work piece, and nearly 6" on either side of that which you virtually cant make use of, because the vise is in the way.

    This was my solution, and I have to say its worked out incredibly well. I'm not sure what this forums vending policy is-- i'm not currently selling these, but the thought has crossed my mind.

    T-Slot Vise Jaws - YouTube
    Light weight, not like some of the other vises I have that drain "X" axis movement. Nice work and clean design.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    327
    I'm interested in your vise, if you decide to make and sell them. I sent a pm with my email.

    Thanks,
    Gary

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    0
    Is that steel finger just a square steel piece with a countersink in it? so tightening the part just centers it and so pushes sideways or is it something else?

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    525
    Quote Originally Posted by Sups View Post
    Is that steel finger just a square steel piece with a countersink in it? so tightening the part just centers it and so pushes sideways or is it something else?
    Yes, it is a steel block-- countersunk on both sides, and it sits on a conical wedge. Tightening it forces it to center on the two cones, and causes a "downwards and forwards" motion. One side is serrated, the other is smooth. The clamps themselves are produced by Carr-lane, and unfortunately they hold (and enforce) patents on the design. Search for "Carr-lane tiny-vise" for more information.

    For what its worth, I have decided to make a few sets of the vises. If you're interested, feel free to send me a PM. Otherwise, i'll likely make my own thread in a couple of days, when some work has been completed.

    I wont be producing the Carr-lane portion, but will purchase a few from them, and re-sell them at cost.

    Rob Lockwood

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rlockwood View Post
    Yes, it is a steel block-- countersunk on both sides, and it sits on a conical wedge. Tightening it forces it to center on the two cones, and causes a "downwards and forwards" motion. One side is serrated, the other is smooth. The clamps themselves are produced by Carr-lane, and unfortunately they hold (and enforce) patents on the design. Search for "Carr-lane tiny-vise" for more information.

    For what its worth, I have decided to make a few sets of the vises. If you're interested, feel free to send me a PM. Otherwise, i'll likely make my own thread in a couple of days, when some work has been completed.

    I wont be producing the Carr-lane portion, but will purchase a few from them, and re-sell them at cost.

    Rob Lockwood
    I was more looking for the function of how it works. I am still far from getting a CNC of my own for personal uses, but the idea was quite interesting for fixture designs at my work.

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