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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    85

    T Slot Material

    looking for suggestions and source for tslot material. I am in a process of building a 2'x4' gantry style cnc and would like the 4'x2' bed to be of tslot material

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    655
    I've been looking at the 80/20 alum extrusions... in the hopes that I'll be building a router of my own.

    Jack
    Walking is highly over-rated

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    947
    This has been asked many times. Basically what it comes down to, I think, is...
    1. Make your own.
    2. Use 80/20 extrusion to create a bed (very difficult to create a level accurate surface).
    3. Contact a company that makes CNC routers, i.e. Techno Isel, and buy it from them (very expensive).
    4. Find a cheap reliable source and share it with all of us.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    384
    From the UK:
    http://www.worldofcnc.com/products.a...gory=Bed+Plate

    I don't know if that will help you, seems as you aren't from the UK. Thought I might as well post it though.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    323

    Table slots

    Sir,

    Here is a picture of the slots I made in an MDF table top. Be aware of the weakness of MDF, as your load should be directly over the tee nuts so as not to stress the table and break out a chunk!!

    Regards,
    Jack C.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00306.jpg  

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    15
    jcc3inc,

    what did you use to cut the tslot? Sorry if this is a stupid question, still new to CNC's.

    Thanks,
    Micheal

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    379
    Bosch Rexroth

    http://www13.boschrexroth-us.com/Fra...t.aspx?units=1

    The offer a wide range of metric tslot systems but also supply imerial. You can order specific lenghts.

    This is what I used for my machine. It aint cheap but its good stuff. I very much perfer it to 8020 because there extrusions dont have that "clamping lock" system which makes it more difficult to install smaller linear slides accurately.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    655
    Quote Originally Posted by xtremein View Post
    jcc3inc,

    what did you use to cut the tslot? Sorry if this is a stupid question, still new to CNC's.

    Thanks,
    Micheal
    Howdy Micheal,

    He might have use something like this:
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

    or different sizes:
    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=931478

    Cheers,
    Jack
    Walking is highly over-rated

  9. #9
    I bought a bunch of t-slot extrusion from this ebay seller

    and you can see my use of it here


  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    323
    Extremin,

    I used a conventional slotting bit and followed with a cove molding bit that I ground off the curved portion. It looks like a "tee" shape now. I came in from the end of the MDF and ran the length of the pre-made slot.

    I'm sure that there are some metal insert type that you could buy and install in a slot you cut.

    Maybe another possibility in using metal tee slots would be to fasten the tee slots to your table frame, spaced every 6" for example. Then attach your wood/MDF table sections between the tee slots already in place.

    Regards,
    Jack C.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    15
    Thanks for the information and suggestions. I will look into which would be best for my needs. Not sure about the metal t slots. The CNC will hold a full 4' x 8' sheet with a 4' x 6' cutting area. But, at the same time the MDF on there now might not be thick enough to cut the slots and retain strength.

    Thanks,
    Micheal

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    323

    Hold-downs

    Sir,

    Here is another possibility; you could use these (1/4-20 threads) pushed in from the back of your table, and spaced as close as needed, if that is possible. It is an easy solution for bolting to plywood or MDF.

    Regards,
    Jack C.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00869.jpg  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    15
    Thank you for all the information and suggestions Jack. I like the idea of using the metal t slots every 6 inches or so. When I got to work this morning I looked at the MDF toable top an it is 1" thick, not thick enought to slot (in my opion) but would work perfect with the addition of the metal slots. I also thought about the idea of using the t nuts like in the picture. We use them from time to time and I think that would be the best cost wise at this time.

    Thanks,
    Micheal

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2
    A material you might want to use is particular aluminum extrusion. This one is often called "Sail Track"and just by it's nickname you can guess where it is used. It should be common enough and it is cheap. I use it on my cnc flat bed router with a working area of 3 metres x 2.5 metres. It is an open "C" section. The cross section is measured as 31.5 mm across X , 11.5 mm up Z The open part of the "C" section measures 13.25 mm and it's wall thickness is 3 mm. What you need to do is route 32 mm wide slots into your MDF full lendth of the bed at intervals of your choosing and at least deep enough to insert fully the sail track. Drill and countersink screw holes in through the bottom centre of the extrusion and then fit your track into the slots. the hole centres should not be more than 90 mm. I "T" clamp s/steel, brass. and aliminum to my flat bed, so it works fine in industrial applications. Depending on what strength you need your "T" bolts to have, I would be inclined to use, for an MDF table top, 4 mm thick aluminium cut to size 23 mm x 40 mm. drill and tap holes in centre to suit threaded rod, cut to your desired length. screw the rods into the holed plates with locktight ensuring that the rods do not go all the way through. Get some suitable nuts. Then cut yourself some 3 mm ali to use as clamping plates about 70 mm wide and the lengths to suit your clamping needs. Drill a row of holes down the middle of each clamp plate to push through the now "T" bolts and you now have an effective "T" slot bed and clamping system.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    302

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    256
    That Rockler sale price is nice being cheaper than for the track alone and you get 8 knobs and 8 bolts (even though the text describes 10 bolts.) Also check http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2008/Main/356 for 1, 2 and 3' T-track for $4, $6 and $8 each, regular price. Although a different size than the Rockler.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    35
    I have bought Track from http://woodhaven.com/Category.asp?Id=101 and it 3/8" thick so you can mount in 3/4" material. I have also bought from http://pricecutter.com/t-track-hold-...em/p/416-0181/. If you do a search on PriceCutter site they sell a metal T-Slot insert for using when you cut your own T-Slot with a router bit.

    Mark

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    302
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Nash View Post
    That Rockler sale price is nice being cheaper than for the track alone and you get 8 knobs and 8 bolts ...
    I've actually seen it for $12.99 from time to time.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    438
    http://www.techno-isel.com/lmc/Produ...lates15175.htm

    Not used them but they seem to have what you may need.
    george

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    29

    slatwall or slatboard?

    Something like this?
    http://www.slatboard.com/
    http://www.fixturedepot.com/Paintgra...sw%20paint.htm
    We use this in retail store and bought it at local plywood sales entity.
    FWIW
    DaveP

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