586,602 active members*
3,556 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
IndustryArena Forum > Other Machines > Engraving Machines > Tool Tracks in Finished Pieces
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    117

    Tool Tracks in Finished Pieces

    I just began to fool around with engraving artwork in the form of relief carving on wood. Using two software packages - Bobart and BMP2CNC. Both do a good job at rendering an image into usable G-Code.

    I'm wondering if there is a trick to eliminating the tell-tale tool tracks that identify them as machine made.

    Using a 1/16" ball-end bit with a .02" stepover.

    I found that adding a little texture to my drawings with Adobe does a good job of masking the lines. However - I really don't want texture on all of my finished pieces.

    A little sanding works but starts to remove details.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1468
    An end mill (flat) might work better (two flute), your ball end will always leave tooling tracks since the part that's cutting deepest it the apex of the ball.

    I get the same on aluminium but I find an end mill does the job for engraving with a finish pass using a 50% overlap and a minimal depth cut gives an excellent finish.

    I've also used bead blasting (takes about 60 seconds for a three inch dia piece) and that gives a nice satiny (sp?) finish and gets rid of the tool traces. My bead blaster uses water though, I'd immagine on wood you'd not want to use water. You can get bead blasting kits dead cheap- all you need is a compressed air line, or one of them portable compressor thingies- looks like a two foot sphere with an electric motor underneath(again dead cheap).
    I love deadlines- I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    117

    Blasting

    Thanks!

    I have compressed air. Harbor Freight has a cheap blaster that shoots just about anything for 30 bucks.

    I did some sandblasting on wood a long time ago. Wood doesn't have a uniform density and it tends to erode the pulp between the grain at a faster rate. It's worth a try but I will need to be careful.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1468
    Just thinking out loud here but you know them kits that you get for Jewling or Engine Turning? it's basicaly a stiff wire brush that rotates and grinds pretty patterns on to metal.

    Could you swap the ball mill for one of these brushes (without abrasive) on the last pass? that'd smooth the finish nicely. I beleive you can get them on E-Bay for a few quid.

    Didn't think about the bead blaster being non uniform on wood- obvious now that you mention it
    I love deadlines- I like the whooshing sound they make as they fly by.

Similar Threads

  1. Linear bearing blocks not sliding between tracks
    By Greg Rutter in forum Linear and Rotary Motion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-28-2008, 09:31 PM
  2. Steel tubes for bearing tracks
    By jeffmorris in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-25-2008, 05:16 PM
  3. Automatic Tool Changer - Almost Finished Photos
    By appicnc in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 44
    Last Post: 03-13-2007, 02:18 AM
  4. Sliding door tracks and rollers
    By Apples in forum Waterjet General Topics
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-11-2004, 01:34 AM
  5. sliding door and window tracks
    By Apples in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-11-2004, 02:51 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •