[MichaelHenry]

Mike

I bored all the holes in the bar and they are tight. All the "Lathe" Moves are X & Z . But each tool has a unique X0 Y0 Z0 and defined by different work offsets G54 G55 etc. Between the 4 vertical holes Y is withing a couple of tenths so the zero for Y didn't change. ( But they could have and it would not be a problem ) And they are on 2.5" centers ( also within a couple of tenths) So moving across the top is real easy. I dial in the spot drill and then X over 2.5" and check that one and so on.

I wanted to keep the length at .400 " plus or minus .001" and they are. And about 85% of them are plus .0005". I couldnt be happier with the way they came out.

Scott

That sounds like pretty good accuracy and about what one would expect given the accuracy of the mill.

Mike

[zephyr9900]

The "real" Blakes are a reportedly a lot better than the import clones.

That's what I've read too, Mike. Since I already have the Last Word, it makes sense to use the holder Scott showed and let the Starrett multi-task (a favorite concept of Alton Brown, whose cooking show I respect greatly)

Best regards,

Randy

[seanreit]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but how are you keeping the tormach quick change tooling from slipping in the aluminum mount? I assume there is a set screw, but none of the views show it.

Thanks

[Scott_M]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but how are you keeping the tormach quick change tooling from slipping in the aluminum mount? I assume there is a set screw, but none of the views show it.

Thanks

Actually there is a picture and explanation in the first post.
in the second picture you can see the small flat milled into the TTS tool holder and the set screw in the bore of the Lathe bar toolholder. And it is steel not aluminum.

Scott

[seanreit]

Thanks Scott, I see it now, don't know how I missed it before. Cheers, I'm going to play with this on my Tormach as well.

[bogiestl]

Sorry about raising the dead here, but...

How has this solution been working out? Looks like it could be a definite solution to one of the things that has been driving me nuts. About the only problem I can see with it (other than having to actually be able to write some code, which doesn't seem like that big a deal...) is coolant on the tools and the "upside down" part... For deeper drilling, etc., are you doing "really long pecks" or what? I may make a similar piece, only with bored/reamed holes sized for the twist drills I'll be using, and just mill some flats on the to have them hold...

[307startup]

Sorry about raising the dead here, but...

How has this solution been working out? Looks like it could be a definite solution to one of the things that has been driving me nuts. About the only problem I can see with it (other than having to actually be able to write some code, which doesn't seem like that big a deal...) is coolant on the tools and the "upside down" part... For deeper drilling, etc., are you doing "really long pecks" or what? I may make a similar piece, only with bored/reamed holes sized for the twist drills I'll be using, and just mill some flats on the to have them hold...

You should check out G-Wizard, Bob Warfield has a neat little G74 function that makes simple work out of programming "turning" for the mill.

As to holding round tooling, why not load up one of your TTS ER32 holders with your drill? By spacing your jaws apart with an appropriate spacer, you can helically interpolate a "hole" into a pair of soft jaws to grip them.

Since you're pushing the workpiece (spindle) DOWN on the tooling, the face of the TTS will be supported by the vise jaws, and absent any errant moves in X or Y, there won't be any side loads to contend with.

[Scott_M]

Hi Bogi

Since I made that video I have "tuned" the process significantly. I made a coolant manifold out of copper tubing that sits on top of the tool holder and has outlets at each tool pointing in the proper direction for that tool IE. up/left/right . I also changed the G83 drill cycle ( peck with full retract ) to a G73 and set the pullback to .1". I originally used the G83 to prevent chips from not clearing. But with good coolant flow and reasonable peck depth the G73 is working fine and shaved a lot of time off the cycle.
the setup works very well for me and I have used it to make a bunch of stuff. I even bought a R8 3 jaw chuck for holding larger work.

On a side note. Since I have added 5th axis support to my machine I had extra inputs available so I added a spindle sensor and now have RPM feedback. I will be playing with single point threading in the spindle soon. I will post how it all works out.

Scott

[bogiestl]

Where did you find the R8 3 jaw chuck?

[Scott_M]

Ebay

here is one

R8 SHANK 4" 3-JAW SELF-CENTERING LATHE CHUCK BRAND NEW | eBay

I think that is even the same seller I bought from years ago.

Scott

[proengines]

You should check out G-Wizard, Bob Warfield has a neat little G74 function that makes simple work out of programming "turning" for the mill.

I've had a look at G-Wizard and it seems like a very useful program and I know that Bob does post on this forum. Bob, is there any chance of a Tormach specific run through of G-Wizard? If it can be used to simplify vertical turning work in the Tormach I'm definitely a customer.

Cheers,
Greg

[davidperry3]

Vertical Lathe cam would be very nice.

[Scott_M]

Vertical Lathe cam would be very nice.

If you look back at post number 15 , the poster , Bob Adams has an app called Mill2Lathe that is a conversational interface that does tapers , fillets , grooving and step turning on a vertical mill. I am not sure if he is actively selling it or what its current status is. But, it is a handy app. Maybe a PM to him would help.

Scott

[davidperry3]

I sent a message to the Mill2Lathe people and they said to use my sprutcam and adjust the text file. Im guessing its renaming some of the axis (or swapping them) in the text file. I havent sat down to ponder this yet. It seems like I remember Bob Warfield saying something like this. I will have to go back through his blog for the details.

:idea:

[skray775]

I have been able to program tool paths in CamBam by following this persons example.

Mill as Lathe programming ???

I would think you could look at those settings and change spurt cam to do the same thing.

I just need to get my head around the tool offsets so I can try multiple tools.

[TurboStep]

You might find the work from this guy interesting:
Calypso Ventures, Inc.
"The new Mill-Turn package. This allows the running of lathe G-Code on a vertical mill."
I've played around with the standard mill and probe functions but haven't had time to try out the turning features yet. Check out the videos The documentation is also quite impressive.
Step

[twocik]

I'm curious if the TC tapping head and knurling is possible in this fixture ? I have these little thumb knobs parts coming up that require knurling and a tapped center.