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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22

    Build completed

    Hey All -

    It took me a month but I just finished building my Joes CNC Model 2006. As a newb to CNC, I learned a lot along the way. In addition, I had an excuse to buy a bunch of new tools.

    Some pics...

    Parts from Joe


    Glue up begins


    Major assembly completed


    Added a base


    It moves!


    Igus


    Electronics board. Needs to be transplanted.


    T-track and spoil board. E-Stop switches need face plate. Gantry sides need to be braced.


    Time to start tweaking. I've already made some test cuts. Have to come up with a dust shroud very soon.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    48
    Sweat :rainfro: Like dude tell us a little more on your project. Good, Bad, PITA, what sent you for a loop AND what did you build it for? :rainfro: Sorry I am in 60's flash back right now :rainfro::wave:

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    655
    Poor lil' Gecko being chased by the..............

    Nicely Done, let us know how it works for ya.
    Walking is highly over-rated

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    The machine came out great, and nice base stand, the wheels with adjustment fixtures are nice.

    Hope it runs well for you and you get allot of enjoyment from it..

    Joe

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1470

    Congratulations A Job Well Done

    You did a fine job on the CNC and stand, you can always spot woodworkers by their skillfully built work.

    Good luck and will be watching for projects soon. Keep the good photos coming.

  6. #6
    Machine looks great. Can't wait to see some samples.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22
    Thanks for the compliment but I am not a woodworker by any stretch of the term I'd like to thank the members of this forum for their invaluable contributions. The info here reduced the number of build-gotchas.

    The assembly of Joe's kit was easy. It's essentially self jigging. My spindle came out about 2 degrees off vertical in the Y-plane because some of the holes I drilled in the backplate were off. Much hacking of the holes with an endmill got it pretty close. I will still need to true it up because I got small ridges when I surfaced the spoilboard.

    I'm using the Hobby CNC ( 300oz in parallel bipolar?) motors from the kit I never built on all 3 axes. I'd like to increase the accel some more but I think the X-axis stepper is at it's limits. My motor tuning parameters are 200 ipm/15 accel on XY and 160/20 on the Z. As it is, while running a test file that took 2.5 hrs, the stepper surface temps were at 184-192F. I will need to drop the current from 3A to 2.5A before they demag or the coil insulation melts.

    This is fun!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    1470
    Quote Originally Posted by GoFaster View Post
    I will still need to true it up because I got small ridges when I surfaced the spoilboard.
    This is fun!
    One thing that might be contributing to the ridges is that Joe updated the side pieces by adding some angle iron to increase the rigidity. This would be a simple thing to add before you tried to tweak anything else.


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    161
    Don't forget to add the angle iron to the outside of your gantry for added support.

    Looks fantastic!! I can't wait to start mine! Just waitin on my tax check and the weather.... 0 deg F is a bit chilly

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    11
    GoFaster - Looks great!

    I am interrested in the pattern you drew on the paper with the pen chucked up in the router. I understand that this pattern should show you whether you are in alignment, or not - how did you generate this pattern (downloaded, scratch-built, shared G-Code?), and how close were the intersections (I could not see clearly from the pictures)...

    Also, I noticed the really nice limit switches you put on the table leg cross-piece - What switches are those? Have you found that they repeatably zero out in the same place?

    I've seen folks on this build go though the desire for a dust collector, get frustrated because they can't 'see' what the cutter is doing and eventually just take it off... Personally, I'm for an enclosure for the whole machine, with plexi windows (dulls the sound, too)... I'm interrested in how you solve this problem.

    Great Job!

    Regards,

    Bruce

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22
    Hi Bruce -

    The arcs and lines were used to check X and Y for square. It came from this post
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=189

    I was happy that the intersections were pretty much spot on, given the slight pen wobble in the holder. I knew that old Xmas wrapping paper would come in handy.


    The limit switches were originally intended for my mini-mill conversion. But they are too large to fit. I used them on the router's X and Y axes, and micro-switches on the Z. I got them from Allied Electronics, opted for the SZL-VL-B adjustable version - made tweaking really easy.
    https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Se...SKU=642%2D2297

    Yesterday, I hacked together a version of Buzz9075's "Yet Another Dust Collector". Between it and his air diffuser for the router exhaust, it made a big difference in the amount of debris that blasted everywhere and into the air. I'll live with it for a while to see how it works out in practice. If I am still happy with it, I will make another one out of acrylic so I can watch the cutting action



    Note the plastic sheeting in the background? That's my machine enclosure that I put up immediately after the first MDF test cut!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    138
    I assume that cable track stuff is from Igus. Approximately what does it cost?
    I've got their catalog here somewhere, but there aren't any prices in it....

    Thanks!

    -Taylor

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22
    Yes, it's IGUS brand but I found some great deals on EBay, especially for the wider X-axis piece. From what I understand, retail pricing is $$$.

    I've replaced the X-axis stepper with a 495oz-in unit and have been able to bump the accel up to 25 without losing steps or stalling. Next is to look at replacing my butchered router mounting backplate (the 3/4" MDF piece). Has anyone tried using 1/2" aluminium plate? I've got a K2 Hitachi mount on the way.

    - Felix

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    740
    look at mine here:
    http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43485&page=7 post 76 is the start.
    1/2" 6061. Drilled the matching holes and used a shim to allow for the nuts that hold the U-bolts.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22
    BobF -

    That is exactly what I'd like to accomplish, thank you!!

    - Felix

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1238

    Question Dust Collector

    Quote Originally Posted by GoFaster View Post
    Yesterday, I hacked together a version of Buzz9075's "Yet Another Dust Collector". If I am still happy with it, I will make another one out of acrylic so I can watch
    Nice work on your machine!

    Your dust collector pick looks great! Any changes planned for it?
    Do you have a link to the Buzz version, I couldn't locate it?

    Thanks, WT

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    75
    Just out of curiosity...

    Would it maybe be better to rotate the dust collector 90 degrees. It seems to me that you would be loosing a lot of travel in the direction of your dust collector hitting the gantry on that side?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Quote Originally Posted by emtffkev View Post
    Just out of curiosity...

    Would it maybe be better to rotate the dust collector 90 degrees. It seems to me that you would be loosing a lot of travel in the direction of your dust collector hitting the gantry on that side?
    He can just put a blast gate under that side.

    Joe

  19. #19
    That vacumm device is way too big. The part should go around the collet nut, not the body of the router. This pic is of my K2CNC vacumm setup. It is small and tight. Anything bigger and it will crash into things (clamps, bolts, the part, etc.)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails cnczone k2cnc vacumm.jpg  

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    22
    Hi All -

    Thanks for the comments.
    Weldtutor, search for "Yet Another Dust Collector" in this sub-forum. You find a link to Buzz's site and plans.

    By luck, my shroud just clears the gantry side at lowest Z. I agree that rotating it so the hose inlet is in the front might work best. It also depends on the size/shape of work to reduce the times the hose inlet area is off the table edge, losing suction.

    My K2 mount came in, nice piece of hardware. I'll have to fab a new dust shroud for it. I opted not to go with the K2 shroud because it only has a 2.5" dia hose inlet. I really don't want to neck down my 4" hose run. Of course, as Mike pointed out, the 4" inlet makes the shroud rather large. I like Buzz's design because it's very easy to change bits and most of the structure is above the collet nut.

    - Felix

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