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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196

    took the plunge

    O.K., I stopped talking and placed an order with Harbor Freight for an X2. This will be my second Asian mill. I have an old Enco that will be very handy converting the X2 to CNC. In fact, the X2 base will fit nicely on the Enco's table. This should be fun!

    Bill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    My x2 arrived today via Yellow freight. The driver set it down on my driveway with his lift gate. The box is very stout. I was surprized to see that inside the box was a massive block of rigid styrofoam that completely enclosed the machine. Inside the foam box, the machine was totally bagged in heavy plastic. No red grease! The ground surfaces are all heavily oiled. Fantastic packing. Everything looks exceptionally nice. What a cute little machine! I'm impressed so far.

    Bill

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    427
    I dont know if you need this but I found this website lastnight and will be getting this dvd. 10 bucks doesnt seem like its that much for some knowledge. http://smartflix.com/store/video/912...s-101-volume-5 I am also order the rest of the series and I let you know how it goes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    I am working on an idea to eliminate the inherent weakness of the X2 mill: the pivoting column feature. Although this might be considered of value by some, I think it diminishes the little mill’s utility. Both the X2 and the Taig have this useless feature.

    Several people have created good fixes that strengthen and stabilize the pivot. I like the use of a bracket or angle plate affixed to the rear of the column providing better support and rigidity. Turnbuckles would also do a good job.

    However, I am considering something different. I am thinking of building a wooden work station/table with a tall “back splash” that is built with great strength and rigidity. I would then add a sheet metal flange to the rear of the column, and bolt the column to the table’s back splash. This should make it column very stable, make tramming a cinch, and resist twisting and deflection.

    Has anyone tried this?

    Bill

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    See the sketch of my idea:
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    427

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2512
    Using a wooden structure to stiffen a machine tool is a bad idea. Wood by it's nature is flexible and is not dimensionally stable over time. A better approach would be to weld up a massive steel fabrication.

    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by bilinghm View Post
    I am working on an idea to eliminate the inherent weakness of the X2 mill: the pivoting column feature. Although this might be considered of value by some, I think it diminishes the little mill’s utility. Both the X2 and the Taig have this useless feature.

    Several people have created good fixes that strengthen and stabilize the pivot. I like the use of a bracket or angle plate affixed to the rear of the column providing better support and rigidity. Turnbuckles would also do a good job.

    However, I am considering something different. I am thinking of building a wooden work station/table with a tall “back splash” that is built with great strength and rigidity. I would then add a sheet metal flange to the rear of the column, and bolt the column to the table’s back splash. This should make it column very stable, make tramming a cinch, and resist twisting and deflection.

    Has anyone tried this?

    Bill

  8. #8
    The GrizHFMiniMill Yahoo forum has a few discussions going on right now about column flex and stiffness.
    The Photos section also has several solutions people have tried.
    Very informative.
    This pic shows how I beefed mine up.
    Hoss
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0815_576x768.jpg  
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    In terms of using the wood table to stabilize the machine, if done properly, wood can be extremely stiff. Remember, one of the highest performance fighters of WWII, the Mosquito, was made of plywood! Also, there are whole sections of this site dedicated to making CNC machines from wood. The wooden structure would have to be a "stressed skin" design in order to perform up to expectation, but I still think the concept has promise.

    Bill

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    427
    I say go for it. Plywood is cheap and not hard to come by. Take measurements of before and after to compare the numbers and see if the project is worth it. I know I cannot do it down here(florida) the humidity is killer and all the tools live out in the garage. Something else to consider is making a form out of plywood and pouring concrete. If done properly you could absorb alot of vibration and make it pretty stiff. Use the 5000psi or better. Also it sticks to the not very expensive/easy to find materials. Goodluck with everything

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    I wonder if anyone can provide the necessary "footprint" for a CNC Fusion converted X2. I am ordering the kit for my little mill, but it would be nice to be able to get started immediately on appropriate bench. I suppose that I could just add 6-8" of additional room on each side of the X?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    I wonder if cement board might be good?

    http://www.nationalgypsum.com/litera.../PermaBase.pdf

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1187
    Ya know Regnar posted a perfect example, that first pic with the angle plate mounted to that pivot bolt is perfect. Besides what do you plan to mill that the machine needs such rigidness that you seek? I think a lot of newbies(including myself at one time) expect those mini mills to do some serious metal hogging. The KISS method is the way to go(Keep It Simple Stupid). Besides you,ll spend so much time trying to make the machine rigid and precise that you'll forget what the hell you were going to mill!!!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by ZipSnipe View Post
    Ya know Regnar posted a perfect example, that first pic with the angle plate mounted to that pivot bolt is perfect. Besides what do you plan to mill that the machine needs such rigidness that you seek? I think a lot of newbies(including myself at one time) expect those mini mills to do some serious metal hogging. The KISS method is the way to go(Keep It Simple Stupid). Besides you,ll spend so much time trying to make the machine rigid and precise that you'll forget what the hell you were going to mill!!!
    I will be using the new mini mill for miniature CNC projects in aluminum, plastic and wax. Big stuff goes on my 700 lb. 2hp Enco mill-drill.

    I'm seeking as rigid an Z axis as possible given the size and weight of the X2. The pivot point at the base of the X2 spoils an otherwise fine design. The long lever arm of the column, secured only at the lower end, makes for a very flexible machine.

    I have examined the angle plate fix, it is very well done. Although I'm sure it is a huge improvement, it doesn't fix the underlying problem. The column ideally needs to be completely immobilized along it's entire length. I do not need or want to ever pivot the column.

    Since I must build a work bench for this machine anyway, I want to see if I can make the bench work with the machine and improve the it's functionality.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    427
    I know cement board flexes, I just redid my bathroom with this stuff. I was thinking more along the lines of a concrete counter top. Make it a few inches thick and reinforce with rebar and chicken wire. You could even use epoxy cement although that starts to get pricey. I am still working on the ideal for an enclosure for mine but I have a feeling I will be make it out of concrete,80/20 and plexi glass. I will be ordering the fusion kit next month so I would be able to give you the numbers then but you could just email fusion Im willing to bet he has it memorized.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2512
    I think you may be cofusing strength with stiffness. The design criteria for an aircraft is not the same as for a machine tool. Aircraft are required to be strong and light, for which wood and aluminium provide a reasonable compromise, machine tools are required to be stiff and massive, for which cast iron and steel provide a good compromise.

    Can you build a bridge out of chocolate, yes. Would you build a bridge out of chocolate.....

    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by bilinghm View Post
    Remember, one of the highest performance fighters of WWII, the Mosquito, was made of plywood!
    Bill

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    The structure that I am describing would use a stressed skin panel, or torsion box. These are extremely strong, stiff designs that resist torque. They are variations on the monocoque designs used in aircraft design like the plywood airframe of the Mosquito. Additionally there was a successful sports /racing car, the Marcos, that used a plywood chassis. Cast iron is best, but I can't build a bench from cast iron.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    427
    Here is some pictures. This guy built his with the mini mill and a skill saw. I wish I could give you the 23 pages of thread he wrote up about this and other little things he did to the mill but its part of a pay for site.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails post-8-21095-16.jpg   post-8-03125-3.jpg   post-8-02270-1.jpg   post-8-02021-2.jpg  


  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
    Here is some pictures. This guy built his with the mini mill and a skill saw. I wish I could give you the 23 pages of thread he wrote up about this and other little things he did to the mill but its part of a pay for site.
    Wow, now that is a nice piece of work! An elegant solution to the problem.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    19

    Payfor site???

    Quote Originally Posted by Regnar View Post
    Here is some pictures. This guy built his with the mini mill and a skill saw. I wish I could give you the 23 pages of thread he wrote up about this and other little things he did to the mill but its part of a pay for site.
    Regnar: what site would that be? and is paying to see worth it?

    Thanks,
    Java77man

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