[Old Timer]

Thanks for the offer, DJ.

So I looked up an old buddy of mine that I lost touch with the past couple of years -- this guy cut his teeth on '70s - '80s electronics. He knows electronics, electrics, hydraulics, hydraulic-electric, machining, used to build racing boats/engines, the list is nearly endless. He's been invaluable to me for years with problems in my shop with the desktop, EDMs, CNC, although he has (had) no specific knowledge on those machines.

So I took the board to him today, he looks at it, gets his gear out and starts to de-solder (?) the connections, sucking the molten solder off with some special copper woven cable. Gets it all off, flips the board over and gently pries the battery off. It moves easily and then basically drops off but the pins in the back did not move.

We did not look at the new battery first, so come to find out, those pins are hollow and are fastened to the board; the three pins from the battery just slide into them. No soldering or de-soldering needed! We both got a good laugh over that. So the new battery is in, but I haven't put it back in the mill yet, will do it tomorrow.

Maybe this will help someone in the future who thinks the battery is soldered in, if there's anyone out there still working on these antiques.

Click to expand. Those three pins are the hollow pins that are fastened to the board:


Attachment 494218


The battery just slides into those hollow pins from the other side:

Attachment 494220

[machinehop5]

...oh, so it was a plug in battery. That's good also, you got to see an old friend. That's great. So, when you get things back together today I attached a File that should work on your Dynapath 20. The post processor a had was for Dynapath 40- 60. Try storing this program and running it. X0 Y0 is center of the Table....I can not delete the1st File...download the 2nd Dynapath20

[Old Timer]

...oh, so it was a plug in battery. That's good also, you got to see an old friend. That's great. So, when you get things back together today I attached a File that should work on your Dynapath 20. The post processor a had was for Dynapath 40- 60. Try storing this program and running it. X0 Y0 is center of the Table....I can not delete the1st File...download the 2nd Dynapath20

I got it running, although the first-second time was like before: Couldn't move off the first screen, reset button wouldn't work. So I let it run for an hour or two, rebooted, and everything seems ok. I can jog and reference all the axes, start the motor. I've rebooted numerous times since just to make sure it's okay. I'm wondering, does the battery have to charge up or something, and that's why it didn't work the first couple of boots? I didn't think it was the rechargeable type.

I have no idea what your program is for. FWIW: I went directly from building molds on a Bridgeport in 2000 to buying and learning this CNC, but jumped right over the whole G-code thing. I only know how to program with CAM. I had GibbsCAM, but I sold my shop PC a few weeks ago so using that is out.

I don't know of any way to load anything in this controller other than via CAM. At any rate, here's a plate on the side, I have no idea what "ear, cassette, or mic" means. I don't know of any other inputs.

[machinehop5]

...That is good news the Keypad Buttons etc now work after a warmup. What ever is going on your guess is as good as mine. Power Supply voltages maybe the problem..or AC Ripple to high (failing Caps). Leave the control ON 24/7 it was design for.it. The Ear and MIC Input/outputs can be used to store data read more here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...torage_formats

I remember using them in late 70's then, Teletypes for RS232 at a mind blowing baudrate of 300bps....lol. The good old days. Anyway, your RS232 is whats needed, plus a name brand USB to RS232 Adapter like Tripplite
https://tripplite.eaton.com/usb-seri...-5-ft~U209000R

Also, here is what is in the G code File

[Old Timer]

...That is good news the Keypad Buttons etc now work after a warmup. What ever is going on your guess is as good as mine. Power Supply voltages maybe the problem..or AC Ripple to high (failing Caps). Leave the control ON 24/7 it was design for.it. The Ear and MIC Input/outputs can be used to store data read more here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...torage_formats

I remember using them in late 70's then, Teletypes for RS232 at a mind blowing baudrate of 300bps....lol. The good old days. Anyway, your RS232 is whats needed, plus a name brand USB to RS232 Adapter like Tripplite
https://tripplite.eaton.com/usb-seri...-5-ft~U209000R

Also, here is what is in the G code File

I used the RS232 the whole 20+ years I had it, it was connected to my desktop, from which I loaded programs from GibbsCAM. But that PC is gone, as I noted.

Why do I need to load anything into it now? I don't understand what your program is. What is the point? So a potential buyer can test it?

[Old Timer]

...That is good news the Keypad Buttons etc now work after a warmup. What ever is going on your guess is as good as mine. Power Supply voltages maybe the problem..or AC Ripple to high (failing Caps). Leave the control ON 24/7 it was design for.it. The Ear and MIC Input/outputs can be used to store data read more here...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...torage_formats

Does that mean that the battery is rechargeable? In the 20-some years I've had the mill, it has sat completely off for 2-3 weeks at times, but never had a problem with the battery.

So I booted it up this morning and again, it wouldn't reset. Let it run for an hour or so, hit the reset and all is fine. Not quite understanding what's going on here, and if it's okay or there is still something wrong with it.

[Old Timer]

So this morning it was fine, booted and reset immediately as it should. I contacted the head maintenance guy at the company who built/maintained this machine, and he said the battery is NOT rechargeable, but that the old machines can be finicky.

I've left the controller on most of the day, everything seems fine.

[Old Timer]

So, an update. The machine has been off for 2 or so days. Today I boot it up and it won't "reset." The opening screen says everything is okay, no warning about the battery, but it won't "reset" and I couldn't get off that opening screen. Let it set running for an hour or so, then it resets and works fine.

A guy was down the other day and is really interested in it, but is not sure it will fit under his door, lol. Have not heard back from him yet. I offered him the mill, a Harig surface grinder with a Walker chuck and dozens of wheels, and a 7.5 HP rotary phase converter for $2,000. He likes the price, but I have to make sure the mill is operating okay.

As noted before, I've had the mill since around 2000, it has sat shut off for weeks at a time occasionally, and never had this problem.

Help? Anybody? I really need to get rid of this stuff.