[twocik]

WOW today was my first CNC cut with I think was a 7 series aluminum and wow should I have listened to you guys with using a coolant system. (chair)

The WD40 isn't bad, but I should be using some sort of coolant system! I noticed when not using any liquid (WD40), some vibration and very jagged cuts on the sides of my work piece.

I'm running my X1 CNC mill with -
1/8th 2 flute carbide endmill
cutfeedrate of 5
plungerate of 2
at 1800rpms

When using the WD40, the cuts were much cleaner, but it just looks like it's still missing something for the finish.

I thinking about making my own system. I was going to use a water pump from homedepot, but didn't know which one to go with or if the pumps they sold would be strong enough.



I found this site with directions on making a flood coolant system, buy I have very little knowledge with this. So if anyone would like to share any info or experiences with a system like this, Please feel free to share.

Parts Listing

I'd be pleased to save others some time in making their system. The total parts cost is about $300. Here is a complete listing of the parts needed to make a really nice coolant system:

Aluminum milling machine drainpan see drawings below (any fabricator - $150)
Little Giant VMC-1 Pump (www.mscdirect.com #09409012 - $80)
Loc-Line 1/4" Coolant Pieces: 1/4" snap-together hose; magnetic base; 1/4" valve; 1/4" T-fittings; miscellaneous nozzles (www.modularhose.com - $25)
1/2" thick aluminum plate to hold mill above coolant (www.mcmaster.com - $50)
27/64" drill bit and 3/8" NPT Tap for Wabeco CNC table (hardware store - $15)
Mobilmet S-122 water-based coolant (www.mscdirect.com #60002466 - $14)


Chris

[project5k]

can you post the link to the actual source site, i would like to take a look

[twocik]

Here this is the one


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3D1%26hl%3Den

[twocik]

I also found this one


http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG

[Tim Wiltse]

Hey Chris,

You can make something else for alot LESS! The VMC-1 kit from McMasster-Carr is about $100.00 these days. Cheaper from other sources.
Make a trip to your local Home Depot or Lowe's. Pick up a sheet of plywood($15), maybe a 2x4 or a 2x2($2or$3), PVC shower liner($25), 5 gallon bucket w/lid(? maybe a few bucks), an outside pond pump($20 or $30 bucks), piece of plexiglass($10 tops) and a length of hose and oddball hardware(few bucks) .
Even though your mill is small it will surely kick up chips and sling cutting fluid onto things you don't want them getting on. Build an enclosure with the plywood and 2x4's or 2x2. Line it with the PVC shower liner.This stuff is like a heavy rubber sheet only PVC. Use the plexiglass as a see through door on the front. Use a drain fitting of some sort and mount it to the bottom of the enclosure. Run a piece of hose to the 5 gallon bucket..heck any size bucket for that matter and have it sit under the bench were you have your mill setting. Maybe score some wire mesh to use as a filter to keep out the big chips from the pump. Just my 2cents..keep the change!

LAter,
Tim

[askman]

1800rpm is really too low for 1/8" carbide endmill as well. I found a neat little homemade setup here. http://cnc.novalab.org/mister.htm it is almost like fogbuster. I am planning on making one up when I get a better compressor.

[twocik]

"1800rpm is really too low for 1/8" carbide endmill as well."

Well 2000rpms is all I got. I know I know, I've been looking to invest into a bigger machine, but money is a little tight right now. I have recently upgraded the X & Y table, and made a Plexiglas case to hold the mill.

Here's what I've built.

[Kipper]

Nice enclosure! Just waterproofing to do and maybe a little "drop" to one corner for coolant return?

[Harryman]

I use a simple system that works well for small cutters. I ran an IV line with a right angle fitting through a loc line with a big needle on the end. The needle fitting just screws into the fitting on the end of the IV line, so they're easy to change. Don't forget to grind the buisness end off!

The advantage for me over only a loc line is that you can get tip of the needle and the stream of coolant very close to the cutter without having the loc line in the way. Plus, once the basic shape of the loc line is set, you don't have to mess with it very often, the needle just pivots out of the way.

[project5k]

thats an interesting idea.. i guess i better order me some of this locline stuff, so when i get ready i have it... pretty cheap from mcmaster isnt it? or is there better sources?

[Harryman]

I bought mine from Wholesale Tool. http://www.wttool.com/

McMaster is great, they have everything, but they're usually a couple of bucks more for most stuff.

[twocik]

"millingjeweler'

What kind of mill are you running? Looks very nice BTW!!


You know this is a very funny thing that you brought the IV line up. My girlfriend is a nurse here in Naples, FL and I've had her bring me things from around the office to try. I have something very similar in my hands to what you have (PCA Pump), I'm going to look into it tomorrow. That's after I pick up a water pump tomorrow.


Any ideas on a coolant tray? I've thought of maybe a oil changing pan, but we'll see.

Now I was thinking of a few things to angle it, but was afraid that my case was made out of mostly soft wood, so maybe some water proof paint might help....

The other problem I think I might have later in the future is, on the bottom of my mill you'll see a 1/2" thick black base. The base is made of steel, which I'm thinking it might rust. I've painted the base properly. I sanded the steel with a metal brush, and grinded most of the oxidation off, then primed it and spray painted it black.


What do you guys think?









The biggest Pain in the A$$ with the my X1, low RPM's (2000 max), the gib plates & screws are such a pain to get just right, nylon gears suck. I'm looking for something in the range of $3000.00 - $5000.00, but not just yet. I almost bought the X2, but I'm thinking maybe even taking out a loan and getting a waterjet. This is something I really enjoy doing and could do it for the rest of my life. Never thought I would have ever seen myself doing this. I barely made it thru shop class, wish I could go back now for the knowledge!!!

[ckm]

You might take a look at the enclosure I built for my X1. It's made of Foamed PVC, which is PVC sheet and very cheap. You can glue it with PVC glue that you would normally use on pipe.

The PVC shower liner is also very good, use it to make a coolant tray. You can paint the rest of the enclosure and that will make it pretty waterproof. Make sure you caulk any seams. Any pump that can be used in a pond will work, and irrigation pipe+fittings are really cheap.

Chris.

[twocik]

Found it, damn that's a nice way of doing things!!!!

I see a drain in the upper right corner, but no slop for the coolant to run or am I seeing it wrong? What are the walls made of?

How is your X1's performance? Does the counter weight really help, or is it a waste of time?


Sorry for all of the questions, but it's nice to meet up with someone with almost the same setup.




I've found this mill, anyone know anything about it?


http://www.cncmasters.com/CNC%20Jr%20Mill.htm

[Harryman]

Twocik,

My mill is a Minitech, MiniMill 3. It's a nice mill.

Another idea for a pan are concrete mixing tubs from HomeDepot or a similar big box store. They're plastic and come in a couple of different sizes. Just depends if the sizes will work for you.

[ckm]

Found it, damn that's a nice way of doing things!!!!

I see a drain in the upper right corner, but no slop for the coolant to run or am I seeing it wrong? What are the walls made of?

There is a slope, but it points the wrong direction. I'm going to shim the whole thing to fix that. You don't need much of a slope for stuff to drain.

The drain is countersunk in the sheet as well, so it allows coolant to flow easily. It's hard to see, but the drain has a particle trap, and I put paint filter cloth under it to trap smaller stuff.

The walls are foamed PVC, which is basically just expanded PVC and is pretty cheap (you can buy a 2x4 sheet for around $20 on ebay). I used 1/2" as I didn't want to add a bunch of plywood. It's a bit more expensive, but worth it.

I got the idea for this from this guy's darkroom sink.

How is your X1's performance? Does the counter weight really help, or is it a waste of time?

Performance is good, 0.01" passes @ 30ipm in 6065 T6. As you can see from the thread, I'm still having issues with the Z, but the X & Y have virtually zero backlash. There's a video of the mill in action in one of the thread posts. I have some better videos I'll be posting as soon as I get around to editing them....

The counter weight helps enough that I'm thinking of moving the larger motor I used on the Z to the X. Overall, I'm very happy with the performance. Could use a little more speed in the spindle, but other than fixing the Z-axis issues, I think I'll leave it alone for a while.

Chris.

[project5k]

hey, i was wondering about this pump i found on lowes.com, i hate lowes, but i guess since their close, if ya'll think that this little guy would work then i might go give him a try... its a pump for an evaporative cooler... or swamp cooler... i just cant find any specs on it.. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-12&lpage=none

[ckm]

That pump would work fine. I have a coolant pump designed for industrial coolant, but it was cheap. That Lowes unit is essentially the same design.

RE: the CNC masters mill - for the price I would look at a Tormach or get a cheap-ish Bridgeport and convert that. I think it's expensive for what it is, a $1000 Chinese mill plus some motors and electronics. I've even seen older, full-size VMC with broken electronics for sale for a similar price.

[twocik]

"I'm still having issues with the Z, but the X & Y have virtually zero backlash."


Now when you say Z axis problems, like what?

I had a few problems at first, but after about 10 hours or more of trying to fix it, I got it. My Z axis was making a funny noise and slipping. It started slipping right before it was about 1.5" - 2.0" to the end of the head stock (Top). I must of assembled and disassemble that thing 40 times, before I figured it out.

What to do if it's slipping ----

I grabbed a pair of needle nose plyers and inserted them between the coupling and shaft collar. Push the handle of the plyers toward the coupling (up), that way your putting all of the pressure up against the shaft collar. Then just tighten the shaft collar up as you press and tighten the allen wrench toward the shaft collar direction (up).


The second problem was with the motor stalling out right before it reached 2.0" - 1.5" on the way up. It was making clicking noise and then would start again, and so on. I fixed the problem by adjusting the gib screws/ gib plate. What a Pain in the A$$ to get them right!

[twocik]

Ok so I bought a pump from Harbor Freight, looks to be pretty powerful. I also picked up a few nozzles and a pressure valve. I thought I found a pan, but it's to small. I'm still on the hunt.....

I'm now trying to figure out what coolant to buy? I'm looking at some of the coolants on McMaster-Carr, but not sure which one to get. Do all coolants need to be mixed with water? If you have any links to teach me anything I need to know would be great and so I don't ask any more stupid questions.