Imo, You shouldn't even have Norton installed on the PC. (Any PC, for that matter. )
Imo, You shouldn't even have Norton installed on the PC. (Any PC, for that matter. )
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
You have never lost an entire computer, programs and data to Ransomware? In spite of a name brand downloaded free, but I paid for it virus software. Never happened before and I have been Tekkie and around computers since the early 1980s. I purchased and use Nortons right after I lost it all. The only thing that made it a little easier was I had just switched over to a SSD two months before and I had the old HD for a backup....
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
No, and I doubt many people have. Regular backups would be a better option imo.You have never lost an entire computer, programs and data to Ransomware?
I'm not anti anti-virus, but the big name ones are too intrusive, and too bloated. I've used a lot of free ones over the years, and am currently partial to Windows defender.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
And Gerry, one virus in 40 years... not so bad. Plus I have taken at least 4 off other peoples machines. Yes Ransomware can happen to anyone....
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
Back to Mach4, I got the rest of the settings transferred over today and the Axis assigned in the Mach Control pull down and the motors work. So the rest gets worked on maybe tomorrow.
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
Excellent news, Bill. I hope the rest of the testing goes well.
Did I oversell how straightforward the setup is? I see you had questions about the motor setup on the Mach support site. Gotta read those instructions. The answer was in the Warp9 setup instructions. Once you finish with the ESS config, the folks at Warp9 were kind enough to give you settings in the Mach4 config (motors, homing, spindle, etc.).
FWIW, I believe I have a more definitive answer why CNCRP hasn't started supporting Mach4. I was reading in the Warp9 site and found that Warp9 is working on THC control through the smoothstepper when using Mach4. The beta testers found some issues last Friday that Andy at Warp9 is working on fixing. Piecing it all together, smoothstepper cannot yet handle torch height control with Mach4, and until does, CNCRP won't support Mach4. I suppose it's because CNCRP expanded their line to include plasma and want the software (currently Mach3) to support everything they are selling. Makes sense, I guess, but I would think it better practice to make Mach4 available for routers, which I suspect is the majority of CNCRP machine sales, and then add THC for plasma when smoothstepper supports it. That's just me, though.
Bottom line: it's going to be awhile longer before Warp9 gets the THC thing ironed out.
Gary
I wonder what percent of users are going the plasma route? My PlasmaCAM controller tied into the HyperTherm torch controls to control the torch height. Something about the control voltage signal measuring.
No I found the Warp9 instructions confusing and scattered to say the least. Your lead to believe once you get the ESS setup its all done. Not true. You need to go into the Mach pull down configuration and sometimes re-enter the same information. This is using the new and improved version plug in 233. Regardless I got it figured out. The motors seem a lot smoother and I like that I can customize the screen.
Its interesting I just came off another Forum where a experienced CNC person who is in the business, said the "hobby controllers" which I assumed meaning Mach3 and now Mach4 Hobby were so inferior to the professional grade Acorn? Which is what he is promoting, surprise. I looked at the Acorn before going to Mach4, I could not justify the extra expense. Perhaps if I was building from the start I would go that route.
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
1) how do you define "Professional" or "Commercial" grade? One person's Professional Grade is an other person's toy.Its interesting I just came off another Forum where a experienced CNC person who is in the business, said the "hobby controllers" which I assumed meaning Mach3 and now Mach4 Hobby were so inferior to the professional grade Acorn?
2) Everyone has their own personal preferences (and biases).
3) No software or control is perfect for everyone. Different people have different needs or requirements, and not all controls (even "Professional" ones) will always meet those needs.
When I started designing a new machine, I had intended to use Mach4, and bought a license. There were enough things about it that I didn't like, that led me to UCCNC. The Acorn is not even an option due to the limited I/O.
While the Acorn certainly has it's fans, there are also people that have had poor experiences with it.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
It depends upon what you want to do with your machine. If you even think you might want to add a rotary axis (it's on my list), Acorn would be a bad choice. I'd rather not have to try to figure out workarounds, when there are boards/software out there that have more capacity. Not knocking Acorn. I've never used it, so I don't have an opinion about it one way or the other - except for the 4 axis limitation.
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
I don't think a Ethernet single core CPU and 4G of ram= a Professional grade computer, I plan to test it on a tablet when I get it, I have not found a control that won't run on it yet, and have 5 different controls I have tested on it
One like this with a touch screen works very well so far
Mactec54
I think you are mistaken you have to be creative you can run 5 motors or more if you wanted too, this is where most get confused, with the acorn or any 4 axes board this is possible, you only need 3 axes outputs to run 4 motors for X Y Z
2 motors can easily be run from one axes output, which is the best way to do it anyway then both receive the same perfect pulse output, you can even have the motors running in opposite directions which is normal for this setup, so you have the 4th axes free do what ever you want
They have more on there board than most have Encoder for threading Spindle control MPG 8 relays all just plug and play and more so is ahead of the game compared to most
I have not used Acorn either but will test it at some time
Mactec54
I never thought about running 2 motors off of one output, but I understand that phase wires to one are reversed to reverse direction. However, if you wanted to home to 2 separate switches, you couldn't. The two motors would be running off the same signal, so you wouldn't have a master/slave relationship and could home to just one sensor. Auto squaring would not be possible to preserve an already perfect mechanical alignment. (I'm not a fan of correcting mechanical gantry misalignments with auto square.)
I wonder whether one could reliably count on the two steppers turning on and off in precisely the same position every time, so as to preserve a perfectly squared gantry over time. What about bumping in the gantry on one side when the machine is turned off? Suppose one side is moved out of position .010"? Auto square would, at least in theory, restore perfect alignment. Wouldn't homing to just one switch preserve the induced error? Same sort of problem if there are some lost steps on one side only. Wouldn't homing to one switch preserve the the error vs homing to two switches, which would correct it?
When I said "How do you", I should have said "How does one define". I didn't mean you specifically.
My point is that there is no standard that defines the difference between what some call a "professional" control and a "hobby" control.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Back to Mach4, How did you guys handle the Slave of Y the B axis, did you make it #4 to Home or Home in Place? Or just let it do what Y did?
Retired Master Electrician, HVAC/R Commercial. FLA Saturn 2 4x4 CNC Router Mach4 Kimber 1911 45ACP
Hey Bill. Off topic. A quick update on my build. I went back through the adjustments on my mill. I tightened all of the gibs, which were way too loose. That necessitated having to retram in both directions, and relevel the whole machine. I then leveled my auxiliary support to stock placed in my vise. Got everything plumb and square to as close to perfection as I am able measure. Level was pretty easy. I have a 12" machinist's level that's good to within .0005 in 10" and a Pro Tram System, which does a nice job.
I am making a work table similar to the Festool MFT, only larger. I am using 1.5" x 3" extrusions from my old CNC. I mounted them so the 3" section was vertical, to simulate what I'll get when cutting the 3" x 3" extrusions for my new router frame. Made sense to me to use something other than my new extrusions. Better to experiment with the lower priced stuff.
Long story short, the ends milled such that they were perfectly square in both directions. I got a bit of minor chatter, and no amount of change in feeds and speeds would totally eliminate it. I suspect that using a 5/8" x 4" cut length HSS endmill to skim off a few thousands (.006") x 3" didn't help. At least the endmill is very sharp. The slight chatter didn't hurt the accuracy, which is the most important thing to me. Oh yeah, I'm using mist cooling, which works great. It keeps the chips blown out of the cut zone and lubricates the cut. Noga Mini Cool with 19" hose.
I have to finish cutting and milling my table pieces. Then, I'm ready to start documenting my router build. I'll still be working around my remodel projects, so it's going to be spread out some. On the plus side, I need to make a couple dozen rosettes for doors and windows, and need to get the CNC built to make them. My wife wants the bedroom finished, so I get time to work on the CNC to make that happen. Isn't compromise a wonderful thing? More to follow with photos.
Gary