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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    8

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    I am curious about this also. My personal take on the wiring setup is detailed in the attached photo, but I was hoping for confirmation from the thread originator before I committed solder to it.

    Also... Did the unit require a current limiting resistor on the red/gray circuit? The ckt diagram doesn't indicate the IC used to feed the NC sensor loop.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	000b - Tormach to NO-ETS wiring.jpg 
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Size:	64.5 KB 
ID:	365490

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    234

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Same as I have it wired.

    Red 24V
    Grey/Orange
    Brown
    Machines: Grizzly G0704 Mill W/ 3-Axis DRO | Birmingham 12X36 Lathe W/ CNC Retrofit PMDX-126/107 W/ESS 3ph W/ WJ200 VFD

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    419

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    I'm pretty sure my ETS arrived dead, but can you guys take a look at my wiring?

    Something is definitely happening because the current draw goes from 4ma to 0ma when activated, but orange/brown are always open.

    Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    8

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    I'm going to have to assume, after looking back at the original 66a Technical Parameters, that the IC used for triggering the Brown/Orange optical isolator is nothing more than a current forwarding device; ergo, the designation 'I/F'.

    In which case, according to the recommendations, the Contact Rating is DC24V (but with the stipulation of 20ma) MAX... and a 'recommended' 10ma resistive load.

    So in your case, where you are applying 24V to the 'IF' Red wire, what they're asking for is a [24-2V / .010A] current-limiting series resistor [2200 ohms], placed on the Red feed leg prior to the IC; that will also limit the internal Opto-isolator LED circuit and protect it from over current.

    I will admit, this assumes the working LEDs are red in color, because white and blue can usually carry twice the applied voltage. If the LED emission is too low with 2200 ohms, try adjusting it to 1500 and reevaluate... but I think 1100 would be an absolute minimum value.

    Follow? Agree?

    If so, your unit has already suffered from over-current damage...

    and that's why I inquired for input on my question "Also... Did the unit require a current limiting resistor on the red/gray circuit? The ckt diagram doesn't indicate the IC used to feed the NC sensor loop."

    This is pretty much the point where I give out a oh-hell-dammit... but I'm 'trying' to be on your side, 6911; hope this information at least helps.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    419

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Quote Originally Posted by Ftoggle View Post
    This is pretty much the point where I give out a oh-hell-dammit... but I'm 'trying' to be on your side, 6911; hope this information at least helps.
    That seems plausible, I honestly just saw the 24V input and assumed it would work like the typical npn inductive switch. Looking at the datasheet I thought the 20ma limit applied to the brown/orange optoisolator(?) and assumed the LED had a resistor that was omitted from the diagram. Of course the whole thing is chinese so I have no way to tell.

    Since it draws 4ma unactuated and 0ma when depressed I still might be able to get a signal out of it with a transistor; but but the entire thing is filled with glue so there is no chance of repair.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    234

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    6911 You should not need any current limit resistor.... Just measure what the machine put out should be about 5MA.

    The measurement on my machine with my fluke 187 was about 4-5ma on the 12V Pin 3.

    Red (On The Tormach 12V) Pin 3
    Grey/Orange Pin 4
    Brown Pin 5

    Make sure you just connect the right pins and have path pilot on proper settings.

    Video LED Works... Little Faint due to the low current.

    https://youtu.be/JQ9w7cU1hRY

    Signal to Tormach Control Board. When ETS is Activated.
    https://youtu.be/fhFBCyL8Nf8
    Machines: Grizzly G0704 Mill W/ 3-Axis DRO | Birmingham 12X36 Lathe W/ CNC Retrofit PMDX-126/107 W/ESS 3ph W/ WJ200 VFD

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1788

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    To revive an older thread, I ordered CNC Tool Presetter, Automatic CNC Tool Setting Gauge for Z Axis E | eBay on September 3 and it arrived last week. After a little puzzling over the datasheet (Chinese only but with some diagrams) I have it connected and working on my Tormach. It seems reasonably well made although probably only coolant resistant rather than coolant proof. Tool length results are reproducible to about 2-tenths. There are two switches inside. A NC switch senses when the plunger is slightly depressed and is used for setting the tool length. There is also a NO switch which closes after about 1cm of overtravel. I assume that it is for safety and should be wired to eStop. This is a problem for several reasons: the eStop chain on the Tormach is all NC switches, eStop does not go to the accessory connector so wiring would be cumbersome, relying on a switch to actually close in an emergency is probably not a safe plan.

    To get it to work, connect the red and orange probe leads to pins 4 and 5 of the accessory connector (you'll need a 5-pin DIN audio connector) and configure things for a passive probe.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    311

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Mine came with only 4 wires (red, orange, green and blue) and both the shallow depress and the over-travel switches seem to be normally close. it would seem that there are several variations
    M

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    701

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Kstrauss or contract_pilot - I just received my ets and it seems pretty flimsy - do yours wobble like this?


  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1788

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    NO!
    After seeing your video I went to the shop for a quick test. With a DTI touching the edge of the flat top contact surface and pressing firmly sideways on the shiny shroud, the top moves less than 0.0005 on the indicator. Nothing personal but I suspect that you have a screw loose.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    701

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Quote Originally Posted by kstrauss View Post
    NO!
    After seeing your video I went to the shop for a quick test. With a DTI touching the edge of the flat top contact surface and pressing firmly sideways on the shiny shroud, the top moves less than 0.0005 on the indicator. Nothing personal but I suspect that you have a screw loose.
    Yeah thanks man. That’s what I figured!
    (My wife’s been saying that for years)

    I just sent a message to the amazon seller w/ the video link. Let's see what they say.

    For everyone else's reference this is the link to the item i bought: Amazon.com: SHINA 66B CNC Automatic Tool Touch Sensor Normally Open With Blowing Setting Gauge Z-Axis Presetter Locator with Stroke 5mm For Mach3 etc: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    257

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    So I finally decided to get a tool setter to facilitate tool changes in my high speed spindle. Because it uses a ER16 collet to hold tools it's been necessary to mount the tool then set the tool height manually for each change. With a tool setter at least now I just pop in a new tool & the rest is automated.

    Anyway, between all the ideas about spending less than what Tormach offers I decided on the China ETS. I order one from Amazon for $99.99 (free shipping) & got it in a few days.



    It looks nice enough & operates very smoothly with no noticeable play. It operates as expected and besides the standard NO contacts it has an extra NC contact for over travel protection after approximately 5mm of travel. One could set this up to halt the machine if desired.


    I attach a DIN connector as follows:

    SK-66
    Color DIN Tormach Color
    =====
    =====
    ===
    =======
    =====
    DC24V RED 3
    12VDC RED
    NO BRN 5 INPUT BLU
    AC/DC ORG 4 COMMON GRN
    0V GRY 4 COMMON GRN
    ALARM GRN N.C.

    ALARM BLU N.C.


    Note: The cable jacket is some of the toughest stuff I’ve ever come across. Most of my strippers would not work without seriously damaging the inner wires. I finally got my CAT cable stripper out & adjusted the depth of cut slightly less than the jacket thickness. Then I flexed the jacket at the cut point to get it to break away. Practice your stripping method before you commit to the length you want.


    I checked everything out on the bench then plugged it into my machine. I could see both the LED on the tool setter & the PP accessory indicator light up when actuated. Make sure PathPilot is set to "Digitizing Probe (PN 31858)/Tool Setter (PN 31875)" under the settings tab for the correct logic interpretation.

    So my first probing tests showed very good repeatability within a tenth. I'm impressed. Moving around the 20mm carbide surface I found the parallelism to be pretty sloppy at 0.004" variation. Now it's obvious what the 4 little set screws are for in the base. Tormach does specify these surfaces to be parallel at <= 0.01mm or about 0.0004" on their unit making it much more convenient. Still not worth $900 more. So I mounted my ETS from China onto my tool grinder and made it right and got rid of the set screws. Now no matter where I probe on my China ETS I'm within 2 tenths - good enough.


    (Almost done grinding - yeah, my grinder put a better finish on the carbide surface )

    So I'm very happy with this option...



    Now I'm trying to figure out how to get PP to operate a air solenoid without using their expensive USB I/O card. I have plenty of IO lines available on my MESA 7i92 card so I'm hoping to figure out how to use them.

    Note: As mentioned make sure the ETS is assembled tight. I removed the 3 little set screws located below the carbide surface. Once loosened the ring holding the carbide surface unscrews and then the shroud pulls off. There is a O-ring the shroud mounts onto. I made sure all these surfaces are clean & deburred. Then I reassembled it making sure the ring was screwed tight before resetting the set screws.

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1788

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    What was the source of your high speed (water cooled?) spindle? Are you happy with it?

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    257

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    No problems with the spindle. I've had it now for a couple years. Yeah, it's from China & I bought it through this outfit: UGRAcnc.

    Attached are my notes on the motor and a schematic of the controller I made.

    Attachment 406204
    Attachment 406206

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    15

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Thanks for posting, and for the detailed instructions. I just ordered one of these.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    30

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    I just bought one of these that included the same wiring diagram as on the first page of this thread. But my wires are red, black, green, yellow.

    Before I damage something I hope someone can confirm I'm going about this the correct way.

    I tested it using a PC power supply.

    +12v to red
    +5v to green
    GND to black

    A multimeter measuring volts between the yellow wire and GND.

    With the ETS not pressed down there is +5v between the yellow wire and GND. Pressing the ETS changes this to 0v.

    I think that means green/yellow are a normally open circuit that is closed when I press the ETS. If I swap the green/yellow wires it makes no difference.

    So would I wire this thing:

    Tormach Acc Pin ETS wire

    3, 12v red
    4, common black and yellow
    1, 5v green

    So the ETS internals are powered by pins 3 and 4, and the NO switch connects pins 1 and 4 so pin 1 is grounded when the ETS is pressed?

    I appreciate any advice, I'm not too good with electronics.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1863

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    My Mitutoyo 950-111 works just fine for me.
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    411

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??


  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    30

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    I got mine working tonight. I had to tell PathPilot it is a passive probe to get it to work - could my wiring be at fault? It was sold as an NO unit, and I thought my tests with a power supply and voltmeter confirmed that.

    I wired what I assumed to be the power for the electronics to the Tormach 12v/GND pins, and the other two wires to the singal and GND pins thinking that closing the switch would connect the singal line to ground and trip PathPilot.

    One thing I have not seen mentioned anywhere and that wasn't obvious to me until I tested it was that the two wires that are not power supply, ie the switch wires are interchangeable. It does not matter which of them goes to signal and which to ground. This may be blindingly obvious to others but when your wire colours don't match up, you're not sure if it's just a plain switch or something else, and you really don't want to cause damage to anything it gives you pause wondering whether it matters which goes where.

    I decided to set Z=0 where the empty spindle nose (tool 0) trips the switch and put 0.0 in for the ETS height using a floating point rounding error. Anyone see a problem with this? It seemed to work ok.

    Interestingly mine does not have an LED on the unit. Must have been a bit of cost saving going on. I won't miss it.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    1788

    Re: $100 China Made ETS's on Ebay ??

    Your ETS sounds identical to mine which has no LED or other electronics -- just two switches. One switch is NC and opens when the ETS is actuated and the other is an overtravel switch which should probably be a part of the eStop chain. I prefer a passive ETS for several reasons: There is no reconfiguration of PP when changing from ETS to the normal probe. Most importantly if you attempt to use the ETS without having the ETS cable plugged in you get an immediate error from PP.

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