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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > Xylotex > Have I fried my board?
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39

    Have I fried my board?

    Hello all,

    I have had a read through all the threads and seam to have a problem others have experienced. When I have set my board up as per the instruction, all went well as I bought the 3 axiz system ready kit.

    I have then turn on my PC and was trying to setup router on Mach3 which has cause me a few issues. Must watch the videos. I have no limit switches or e stop connected as my router is 15*15 inches.

    While trying to jog my machine the cooling fan dropped in rpm. A short time after it dropped in rpm again and I got a strange smell out of my xylotex drive box. This smell I thought could be become it is all new gear and let it cool for a while with out power. I have turned it on and had the fan drop in rpm again and heard some cracking noises and strange smell.

    On closer inspection all the wiring is correct but the connector that plugs into the steppers had a pin not connected properly.

    Could this result in a fried board?

    any advise would be helpful.

    CC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Quote Originally Posted by Coolcuttings View Post
    On closer inspection all the wiring is correct but the connector that plugs into the steppers had a pin not connected properly.

    Could this result in a fried board?

    any advise would be helpful.

    CC
    Yes, an intermittent connection to a stepper will kill the board quickly. Contact Xylotex for repair info.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39
    Thanks for that Gerry.
    I have contacted Xylotex and will await their reply.
    It will be a bit of a mission to send the board back for repairs as the postge to and from will be the killer. The land of OZ is so far away from the US when you talk to the local postal worker.

    CC

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39
    Another 2 questions.
    1. Will the steppers still lock if the board is fried?

    2. Has anybody got screen shots on how they set up mach3 for their xylotex board? I think I am heading in the right direction but don't what to fry another board.

    Regards
    CC

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    You can't damage the board with incorrect settings in Mach3.
    Not sure if they still lock if fried.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39
    Thanks Gerry.
    Your wealth of knowledge is amazing. I have read a lot of posts and you seam to have the right answer at the right time.
    I am off to order another board as I might as well have one spare for the postal delays.

    CC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    217
    I did not even think about Xylotex repairing driver boards. I have also thought of a spare on hand. Is there a set "overhaul" price on a 4 axis board or priced per problem. I wonder if they sell reconditioned boards. Has anyone sent a board in for repair and what was the turn around? It's just a matter of time
    before a wire breaks or a stepper winding opens to trash the driver. Or it could just go bad. During the build, most are conscience of the problems with the electronics if not done correctly because it's fresh in our mind. After the build and heavy into learning software and trying to make our first, we may tend to forget that machines need service and inspection occasionaly.
    Before I would even connect a stepper to the driver, I connected an ohm
    meter to each stepper, recorded resistance measurements, wiggled wires to insure good connection. I also soldered rather than crimping connectors to my wires. I asked Jeff if he recommended tinning the wires prior to inserting
    them into the screw hold down and he said NO. I would think tinning would be better. I know people like to use the e chain to contain motor wires. It looks
    great. But without a large radius and good quality stranded wiring, it's just a matter of time before it breaks somewhere. I drove myself nuts trying to decide which way to route my stepper wires. I ended up with a tower like Plasma Cam overhead for Z. X is fixed and Y is a large loop on one side of the table. My table is 60"x60" and I wanted the least amount of wire movement
    for the travel of the table. I've been lucky. I have had no problems with
    the mechanical or the electronics on my home built. I have Mach 3, V Carve Pro with the clipart bundle(it's really cool) but at $600. Remember the great words of Jeff at Xylotex.......If you're not sure how to do something at the driver..........STOP!!! and get help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39
    monte55,
    Just had a reply from Jeff and the cost to repair a 4 axis drive is $55 which includes return postage in the US. But some boards which have burned traces can not be repaired. Not a bad sevice in my books.
    Now it loooks like I am off to pack up my board and send it away.

    CC

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    39
    Wohoo, it was not the board that fried it was the fan:wee:
    On taking all the gear out off the control box I gave them a bit of a sniff to find out where the damage was. No smell from the board and the fan stunk.
    Replaced the fan and continued working on setting the up the machine with no problems.
    Now I only have to figure out why the Z goes up when I push the minus botton.
    But at least it is moving...:banana:

    CC

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