Hi. I am starting a re/build project on my 2007 1100 and the first stage is to relocate the machine including moving down some steps.
Thought this may be of interest to some. Cheers. Keen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4q...ature=youtu.be
Hi. I am starting a re/build project on my 2007 1100 and the first stage is to relocate the machine including moving down some steps.
Thought this may be of interest to some. Cheers. Keen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4q...ature=youtu.be
"Nerve Wrecking" is definitely the right term! Great video and tutorial on how to move a machine of this size and weight class.
About two weeks ago I sold my second PCNC1100 and the new owner showed up with a total crew of 3, the Harbor Freight engine hoist and a trailer. I was thinking we were not going to be able to move the machine, but I was blown away by how powerful wood is. We used it to lift the machine and do all kinds of stuff. Somehow, I have lived most of my life thinking that wood is rather fragile and that for it to encounter a 1500 pound load is asking for trouble. I am glad to have been proven wrong so many times as that gives me the knowledge that wood is quite the powerful ally!
I do have to say, though. While looking at your ceiling brackets I was certain the entire thing was going to collapse. Clearly it didn't. How did you know this technique was going to work? How do you know how much metal is enough for the piece not to crumble under the heavy weight? Is this something you have acquired through experience (hopefully not trial and error!) or is this information available somewhere? I would love to know what works and where the limits lie!
I document my CNC Experience at CNC Dude's Youtube channel. Check it out!
Hi CNC-Dude
I have found the boundary proportions over the years by the 'overloading test' outlined in the video. maybe I didn't explain it very well. You test a stressed assembly in a safe position - eg lift the machine a few mm... just above support level with a higher load. If things start to sag or flex too much you are on the boundary and need to increase support or strength. Then you make the lift etc without the additional load. After a few years of that you get a 'feel' for proportions. I have never had an accident using this method.
A good example of this was a Tormach lifting bar I made- I attach a rather fuzzy pic - I only had a light piece of angle iron handy - 5 x 40 x 40 mm so I did the safe overload test and it started to bend. So welded on a support strip which by proportion would add another 40% or so strength. (you can see the bend in the pic)
Cheers - Keen
how did you go with floods ????
Hi John - We are up on the hill ...so the water was just passing through! - a small river in the workshop - but it soon drained away. Sadly not so for folk lower down. cheers...Keen
Thanks for doing the moving video ! I know the feeling of having a machine tool 4 feet in the esp in a close
quarters area.
And its esp unnerving
to have to use a manual HF chain hoist and have to get up close the hanging thing to pull the hoistchain
Guess the ultimate would be a stepper motor driving the hoistpull chain.(driven from the 4th axis driver)
I have a HFelectric hoist but it gives me the creeps, Its been real nice for 100 to 300 ld loads real convenient
and immense time saver. Another way would be to have multple pully blocks and greatly
derate the electric hoist.
Thanks again for making the video, turning on the youtube auto text captions helped me to hear it better,
It was informative and inspirational, you have a lovely shop
Dave
.
Thanks Dave. I really appreciate the feedback. Glad to hear the text captions helped...is that because of my NZ accent or your hearing? Cheers, Keen