A lower helix tool would be less prone to pullout. Or, are there quality "up cutting" tools available?
A lower helix tool would be less prone to pullout. Or, are there quality "up cutting" tools available?
The pull out appears to be related to how much tool flex is going on based on chip load, if I do the same cut at say 8-10k the chip load would go down, thus the flex would go down but this MMR would stay the same. going to a .5" endmill might let me get the higher chip load with less flex and no pull out.
Much experimentation to be done still.
If I really want to max it out I will have to go to BT30 and a pull stud, which I was expecting as mentioned by tmarks11.
jh
Sweet!
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I wouldn't worry too much about material removal rate on your Tormach. You only have 1 1/2 HP. If you really feel the need for more power, maybe you should be looking at something like a Haas VF 1 or a VF 2 with 30 horsepower and 10,000 RPM.
I have been running my Tormach for close to 4 1/2 years and I have yet to find any ending it won't it can't do. It just takes a little longer.
But hey, I'm supposed to be retired so what do I have besides time?
You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.
I think you missed the bulk of the thread Steve.
Mine now has 5hp and 6400 rpm, soon close to 10k rpm, it is more than doubling what it could with the stock motor, and the cutters a re liking it better too.
I make money with mine so time is important!! lol
got to go, my Torzilla just got done and needs more stock!
jh
was Attachment 298634
is Attachment 298636
and I'll drop the ET even more when my "blower" pulleys arrive!
jh
John, be careful. The PCNC1100 spindle assembly is not balance like the PCNC770 is. Thus you may have vibration and/or bearing life issues at 10,000rpm.
RAD. Yes those are my initials. Idea, design, build, use. It never ends.
PCNC1100 Series II, w/S3 upgrade, PDB, ATC & 4th's, PCNC1100 Series II, 4th
As cartographers used to say: "Beyond here, there be dragons!" ;-)
I looked up the specs on the PCNC1100 spindle bearings a while back, and as I recall they are rated for around 8,000 RPM.
As RAD pointed out, the spindle may not be balanced well enough for higher speeds, but then again, it may happen to be balanced enough for higher speeds. I think it's awesome that johnh is exploring "uncharted" territory here, and I'm looking forward to hearing more about the results. I would love to increase my spindle speed up to 8K or so - this would help a lot with aluminum and small cutters.
[QUOTE=johnh;1791342]I think you missed the bulk of the thread Steve.
Mine now has 5hp and 6400 rpm, soon close to 10k rpm, it is more than doubling what it could with the stock motor, and the cutters a re liking it better too.
I make money with mine so time is important!! lol
got to go, my Torzilla just got done and needs more stock!
jh[/QUOTE
I'm gonna be interested in how long your spindle lasts and what you're using for tool holders.
You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.
What I find interesting so far after the recent spindle rebuild using Kluber grease is the lack of heat build up in the spindle.
Yes, balance is important, 6400 right now is relatively very smooth. If you think about it, there are roller bearings out there turning much higher rpm in much more severe environments. IE motorcycle / snowmobile engine crank shafts. sizing is one thing, good lubrication is the other. And a spindle rebuild is cheap and quick. If it does shorten the life some I'll upgrade the bearings.
On this particular "general grade" motor the bearings just have dust covers, the same "inverter grade" motor has double sealed ones. first is rated at 3510 rpm, the second at 7200 rpm. (continuous duty) Right now I'm running mine at 6400, with 1:1.5 gearing I'll get 9600. A little bump up to 6670 rpm I'll be at 10k.
LOL, "There be Dragons out there" were the delusions of fearful superstitious people that thought they would loose their life going beyond the norm established by someone else before them, and in that vein, yes I stood a ways back as the spindle ramped up to 6400 rpm for the first 10 minutes!! lol
jh
or breast implants? I don't know why I wrote that lol!
And thus illuminates the need for experience gained from others or your own to look down the path of the desired modifications ahead of time and anticipate the potentialities and provided for them before hand if actually needed (more than likely). My only unanticipated issues so far have been some electrical noise ones, ( the place where I lack the most understanding) solved now.
jh
A little teaser for everyone. Simple test, still not pushing it to the max yet.
johnh
That plexiglas window you put in the control so you can see the VFD screen is a great idea!
Tim
Tormach 1100-3, Grizzly G0709 lathe, Clausing 8520 mill, SolidWorks, HSMWorks.
Yes, balance is important, 6400 right now is relatively very smooth.
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I balanced my spindle and drive shortly after I got my machine, does wonders for the finish of the parts.
I dont know if you have a power drawbar or not, when I installed mine the large spindle nut was way out of balance, this may have been corrected in later units, I made eccentric rings to correct that, I am wondering what the vibration would be like at 6400 rpm or higher?
Sounds like a fun project though............nice work.
mike sr
yes, balance is the next issue to deal with. I'm sure it could be better now but it seems to be at a manageable level. Did you static or dynamically balance yours popspipes? I have had my own PDB for years before they came out, never live without it. To use all this HP I'm going to have to order Tornmachs BT30 spindle and modify it for a pull stud affair..
Thanks on the window, the read out on top is the PTO bearing temp on the motor. after running at load for 20 min it will climb to 125f where I have it set to kick the fan on, once the fan kicks on in 10 minutes its back down to 100f, low temps for the motor. It's nice to see what its doing and the amps and any fault codes.
Static balance first to get it close, then run the machine and adjust until I got it very close, to get it any better I would have to send it out and have it done on a machine.
Part finishes are much better too.
mike sr