Yep. I have a pair of gloves just like that. Congrats and have fun with it. Let us know if you hit a speed bump.
Yep. I have a pair of gloves just like that. Congrats and have fun with it. Let us know if you hit a speed bump.
Lee
Leeway - a couple of questions if you don't mind.
1) Upon trying to install the chip trays, it seems they shipped M6 socket head screws, but the nuts welded to the tray are mayby M5s? Wondering if anyone else has this issue?
2) The feet are too big to thread into the base, also wondering if its a common problem.
3) The pump hoses don't have anywhere to plug into, there are no barb connecters in the pump to attach them to.
4) What oil do most use in the oiler? Was thinkin of just Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil.
Since there is no owners manual, I've got lots of novice questions.
Thanks!
** I stand corrected - there is an owners manual Novakon just emailed - thanks Khai!! ****
I think all my screws were M5's. I was sent the correct ones. I had two where the nuts popped off. On those I used a couple 8/32 SS screws and lock nuts I had on hand.
The feet that came with mine worked with no trouble.
Not sure what is up with your pumps. My hoses were already attached in my coolant systems.
As for oil, I am just using some 30 W Rotela that I have had for years. It is about gone though and then I will switch probably to Mobil 1.
That manual does have some useful info in it.
Feel free to ask more questions when you have some.
Lee
I use Mobil vactra way oil on all my machines.
Where do you source that from? I see Macmaster Carr has it for $29.07 a gallon for #2 and Enco is $18 and change for the same.
Lee
Mobile 1 Vactra #2 is the standard oil for cast iron dovetail machines. I have also heard of people using chain saw bar oil, because it has an ability to "cling" to surfaces. I would just stick with the Vactra.
we use the MSM screens here and they are really nice. I would definitely recommend them.
Nate
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Thanks for all the tips from everyone! I have the mill all set up after a couple little hiccups. I have set up the wildhorse touch probe, as well as the tool change touch plate and of course using the MSM screens which are waaaaaay better than the std mach screens I was used to.
Question for any 4th/rotary axis users: How are you guys setting this up in Mach to avoid screwing up the rigid tap settings which also use the A-axis.
I have a 4in rotary table from my previous mill, 36:1 gear ratio and hooked up to the same Leadshine 860 that were in my mill driving the other 3 axes. I am just not sure what to set the leadshine to in terms of pulses per rev, and not sure what to do w/ Mach3 in terms of steps per rev.
Thanks!
Hi Brian,
Pertaining to your rotary table, because the table uses the same assets as the rigid tapping, you will need to make two versions of the profile. One will be for rigid tapping (your default profile you received with your mill) and a copy for the rotary table. Just change the name of the copy for identifying the new use for the rotary table. A number of setting are possible, but for example: set 1000 steps on the stepper driver, so that with your gear ratio of 36, you will have 1000*36/360 will give you 100 steps for the mach3 settings for the A axis. Your DRO should be calibrated into units for degrees of rotation. You will also need to change the switch setting on the BOB to "tapping off". You can program the velocity as high as you can without missing steps. With the high gear reduction of the worm gear, you should be able to run it up a little higher
You should have received the pump adapters in the mail. We upgraded the adapters from what were supplied.
I presume the threaded feet fit? We have not experienced any problem with this before.
You should be ready to go.
Regards,
Novakon Team
Thanks John!
Yes the feet fit perfectly. I didn't think of having 2 Mach profiles, makes perfect sense and is simple. Will try it this evening.
Just got the lexan for the enclosure and made my first part.
Awesome.
That should be tall enough. I think mine is about as high at the control panel and I do get a little spray at times. Not on all the parts though.
That is a fine enclosure. I like the visibility of the lexan on the whole front. I used fiberglass panels on everything but the doors and will need to install a couple of windows.
Whatever you do, do not run Koolmist in it. The polycarbonate will not last a year.
Lee
Steve it's 48" from the to of the chip tray up. No coolant ever goes over it. It is tough to waterproof the joints and I just taped the corners as I was getting drips out the ends of the 80/20. Other than the waterproofing issue I love it and it was easy to build but $$$. Prob cost >$500