[FuriousGeorge]

I'd like to do a little woodworking project, but I don't have access to a planer or jointer. Has anyone tried using a facemill or flycutter to plane wood?

[SomeWhatLost]

I have not, But I would assume that when the flycutter went to rip across the grain it would leave a bunch of 'fuzz'/shreds/etc ?
give it a try with some scrap first maybe?
pretty sure you shouldn't use coolant though...
would be interesting to find out how it works out...

[mountaindew]

I have milled small areas or surfaces of wood. "big area is fine for a carving or something but dusty"
All these were oversized stock and required milling to a specific size of 2.0". "carbide 0.5 mill and conversational input code"
Then code is loaded and away you go, milling out 6 sides
Attachment 253906

osage orange, mahogany, acrylic.
nasty dust from osage
All of the above have no added finish work they come directly off vise
Attachment 253908

example 2x4 blocks I use for testing out large sets of operations before setting up and using on expensive material.
Attachment 253910

I get decent finishes also, even out of poor material.
Attachment 253912


And yes it threads wood very nice!
Nice rigid mill is very accurate tool for most any material "just not fast"

md

[popspipes]

I make boxes out of 2x4 and 2x10 lumber, it does dull the tools after awhile though, from what I have read its the acid and moisture in the wood causes that.
Some wood finishes nice some does not in my case, but then I dont know much about the different woods and what ones work best etc..

[CadRhino]

Having done practice parts with the fly cutter it leaves a pretty ragged surface. Drilling and milling has worked well

I have not, But I would assume that when the flycutter went to rip across the grain it would leave a bunch of 'fuzz'/shreds/etc ?
give it a try with some scrap first maybe?
pretty sure you shouldn't use coolant though...
would be interesting to find out how it works out...

[Jerry McFarland]

I have planed wood with a 1 1/8" octal mill cutter with 2 octagonal inserts. I was getting tearout with 1" square Bloodwood sticks on my Inca planer, I was very impressed when I tried planing the wood on my Tormach, no tearout. But when you think of it the cutting geometry on most wood planers is quite crude with 2 or 3 straight steel knives. So my conclusion is a milling cutter will always do better than a straight steel cutter on a thickness planer. Now wood thickness planers with a Tersa cutter head or helical cutter head should do well compared to a milling cutter.

[FuriousGeorge]

Well, from all these responses it looks like I'll give it a go. I have a 2.5" facemill with 6 inserts. I'll give it a go with some scrap this weekend! Thanks for the replies! Anyone have experience with feeds and speeds? It sounds like I can certainly get some good straight boards and worst case scenario, take off the last 1/16" of fuzz with a hand plane.

[popspipes]

Well, from all these responses it looks like I'll give it a go. I have a 2.5" facemill with 6 inserts. I'll give it a go with some scrap this weekend! Thanks for the replies! Anyone have experience with feeds and speeds? It sounds like I can certainly get some good straight boards and worst case scenario, take off the last 1/16" of fuzz with a hand plane.

Wood for the most part machines well, just make sure its good and dry, I cut some pieces to the approximate size and stored them in my pickup for a week or so, it gets hot in the summertime and drys the wood out.

[Jerry McFarland]

Wood does machine well but since it is a fibrous material you can get tear when cross cutting on the sides, so in some places it needs to be backed up. When cutting pockets, etc, in wood on the cnc mill I use the best router bits I can find Onsrud solid carbide spiral single flute.