[diyengineer]

Hello everyone.

Just bought a very slightly used cnc KX3 little machine shop mill from a Texan, and getting it freighted to me. Claimed to be used for light R&D less than 20 hours from a reputable business in the cnc community who makes, and retails a quality product.

Only thing wrong with it was some slight sheet metal damage on the chip collector tray (from shipping), which is going to be removed any ways!

I've rat holed some cash away for tooling, mostly tormach quick change tooling. When they say your going to spend as much on tooling, as the mill costs, its true, but it will be so sweet! Will be working lots of overtime to grow the tooling collection and capabilities of this little mill for sure.

The mill doesn't include a stand, so i will be keeping my eyes open for one. I've found a few, specifically grizzly but ill address that in the next post.

Just kicking this off as a new thread, and long term build with mods to come.

If any other KX3 owners or X3 owners are out there, feel free to say hello!

[diyengineer]

I've seen Many amazing enclosures, specifically from the cnc cook book site.

CNCCookbook: The Enclosure Zoo

Enclosure ideas include:
-Run of the mill Grizzly machine stand. $350 shipped. I can add on the rolling caster kit also making it roll (huge plus), but it really lacks overall size to store tools, jigs, vises, a computer, and the many other things that come with the trade. I've had a couple grizzly stands, and they were decent, but not really something i would spend money on again.

-Used pallet racking. Epic in size, room, and weight capacity, plus i can obtain surplus for cheap. Downside, it doesn't roll. Although some welding and larger wheels would get it there quick, i think a load capacity of 5000 pounds per shelf is a hair overkill for a 480 pound mill. Usually I'm not one to turn down overkill, I welcome it but I've learned over time sometimes its just not needed. Also the sizes i can get usually average up to 16' tall, so it would need to be chopped down and further modified.

-Steel modified scaffolding. I was walking through home depot and saw this "gem". 1000# capacity steel scaffolding. It has awesome reviews online, and was very well made. It has a huge work area, and adjustable table height. @ $219 dollars its less than a grizzly mill stand. The 5/8" top would be removed and a pair of 1 1/8" flooring ply wood epoxied together with a stainless steel sheet top (already have) would be bolted to the underlying frame and steel cross beams. at 2 1/4" thick it would be solid and more rigid. If needed, i could easily close in the lower sides, or add simple bracing. Underneath, i could roll beneath a large tool box to house all the tooling, and mill accessories. I'd repaint the frame, cause i'm not to hot about the yellow. I would add a circuit disconnect also, since it would have supplied power to the entire rolling center with shop air. Off the verticals i could build my touch screen holder, and id build doors on the L and R side in case i have a large part that needed to pass through. I'd box the top in also to stiffen it up and to allow for bulk storage, and lights to be installed. I think it has some serious potential if done correctly, and would be very functional and flexible.

Holding off until i can get correct measurements from the mill. It should show up later next week.

[diyengineer]

Amazing! So glad i went with this setup. I'm going to buy some slightly shorter wheels so i can access the top drawer of the tool box. I could always notch the drawer, but id rather not. 2/4 wheels are swivel and the others are fixed. I'll replace all 4 with swivels that are shorter.

The table top with be 2 1/4" and bolted to the cross beams, and utilize the original steel cross members built in under the 5/8" board (which the 5/8" board is coming out).

The pins will all get pulled, and will be bolts in with 1/2" grade 8 bolts to pull everything together tight.

I can french the front in around the tool box, install a LED light above the box but under the table for lighting of the tools. Another will illuminate the enclosure. Ill install a top also. The sides and back will be boxed in as much as possible. The left and the right sides will have doors level with the machine bed incase i have to insert a long object. Havent decided on what type of doors yet. Off to the right ill install the computer with bench and the left ill isntall a small bench also rolling, probably used for inspection, etc.

Should be a blast. A LOT more to come. stay tune. Should look like a VMC after its all done!

[diyengineer]

Further thinking and I'm changing my mind about leaving the tool box below. That's a lot of surface space lost that I could use on the tool box. I Will move it around back. That way my surface plate and measurement tools will be out of harms way. Also it would be impossible to bolt or remove the mill with the limited access underneath. Also I wouldn't have to worry about buying shorter wheels or notching the drawer for the top drawer to be used. I could lower the center of gravity down a lot since the tool box isn't there any more, by 8" or more. Everything will still roll just fine and be even more functional.

[diyengineer]

I used the existing table top as a pattern for the new 2.25" plywood top. Cutout the new pattern, and liquid nailed the patterns together. Used a squeegee to properly spread the glue, and weighted down. According to the manufacturer it takes 7 full days for liquid nails to reach full strength. I will leave it under weight for that long to make sure its fully cured.

Purchased new 1/2" hard ware to bolt the steel frame together. The quick pins will be removed and the frame will be bolted. Purchased extra long bolts, so when i box the sides in the bolts will go through the sides also, pulling everything together.

I had some left over 2"x2'" 90 degree aluminum bracket left over from another project that im going to use to support the table, and keep the table from spreading apart. The wood top sits on a strong 3/4" steel lip, but i will install a 90 degree flange and bolt it to the steel, and lag bolt the top to the 90. This should make the entire machine very rigid.

I left a 14" extension on the left and right of the table top. This way i can use this for additional storage, or i can install mini doors on both sides and use it to support extra long parts if need be. These extensions will not need any support below, since the wood is 2.25" thick.

I have to swing by and pickup more 1.125" plywood for all the sides.

When this is all done, what is the best way to fill all the gaps, cracks, and crevices and seal it? I'd like to paint it, and when its done, hopefully not tell that its made from wood at all. I've heard everything from fiberglass epoxy, to concrete epoxy.. I'd like to be able to get it at lowes, home depot, or a local hardware store if possible. I'd like all the screw heads filled it, and the grain filled and sanded nice and flat for some gloss paint possibly.

Any ideas?

[diyengineer]

Coating:
Epoxy Resin Black Coating Gel Coat Repair 1 5 Gal Kit | eBay

Looking into epoxy resins for wood surfaces. I could bondo, sand, and paint, but thats a ton of work and isn't as durable as epoxy resin coating. I prefer black, possibly red. further research shows the listing saying that i have to bake at 120C multiple times through the listing for best adhesion. Kinda weary about that. Might go the old fashioned bondo and line sander route..

Lighting:
Found the lights we use @ work. I think one should be enough.
http://www.creativelightings.com/ShoppingCart.asp

Monitor:
Was looking at the ELO touchscreen also.

Window:
1/2" x 36" x 24" Lexan window.

[Crevice Reamer]

Looking good Diye. The scaffold idea is brilliant!

You might want to consider using a plastic tub and mounting the mill above it like I did:


In this pic, you can't see the slant to the far right corner. You could slant it to the front right corner.

http://www.newpig.com/pig/US/pig-uti...nt-tray-pak919

CR.

[diyengineer]

Thanks for the link! They have some really cool products, like that automatic tramp oil skimmer is pretty slick. I'm going with a 32 gallon coolant sump, something deep that i can drop my pump in. I plan on making a stainless steel interior pan that will slant to one side. If i didn't have a full sheet of stainless left over, i'd go with that plastic pan for sure!

Looking good Diye. The scaffold idea is brilliant!

You might want to consider using a plastic tub and mounting the mill above it like I did:


In this pic, you can't see the slant to the far right corner. You could slant it to the front right corner.

PIG® Utility Containment Tray - PAK919 | New Pig

CR.

[diyengineer]

Touch screen:
Did some more research and found out that i won't be going the touch screen route just yet. I use one everyday at our production shop but i don't have to change to many settings since its the same ole button pushing programs everyday. Starting out this machine will need a lot of input so ill just stick to the mouse and keyboard for now. I'll use a mount that attaches to the machine.

ebay epoxy:
I think i'm gonna steer clear of also. Sounds like without baking it, might be garbage or lift which would be a massive pain in the ass to chance that over.
I'll be doing some adhesion lift tests, cracking tests, and surface finish tests on 2x4's and plywood. I bought resin Jelly, Resin, bondo, and hardener. I'll see which gives me the best results to smooth out wood grain, with the best adhesion and surface finish.

Coolant sump:
The brute trash can is 32 Gallons, and i will use that on rolling surface for my coolant sump. extremely durable, it it fits nicely under the machine. Also deep enough that i can drop my pump in. Can anyone recommend a sump pump/booster pump? Gotta have enough pressure to also use a screw on garden hose sprayer.

Router:
Also pulled out my new vintage sears router, hope to get some good use out of it!

Ring cooling:
Loc-line makes a cool ring coolant attachment. I will probably have one of those, and a extra long loc-line single for operations that require something larger or flexible.

More to come stay tuned.

[diyengineer]

Picked up a pump! 1/6HP Flotec, 1200 gallons per minute. The plumbing guy said to go with this one cause it can be piped all the way down to 3/8" pipe without burning up the motor. The larger ones had a 2" pipe minimum since they all flowed over 3000 gallons per minute and when you pipe them down apparently they run hot?

Anyways, 1200 gallons per minute is a TON of flow. My 32 gallon sump would be cycled over 37 times per minute in a perfect situation (no lift, and unrestricted flow). I think it should work out well even with the other factors considered.

Also i plan on using my little 5 gallon pail vacuum. Works REALLY well for random cleanup.

[Crevice Reamer]

Looking good! Now go to Lowes, in the well pump dept. and get this spin filter for trapping fines:



Lowes item #25699.

CR.

[diyengineer]

75 micron top filter for 32 gallon sump.

Photo of the Pump.

I will make a stainless drip pan that will funnel the coolant back from the machine into the top sump. This way all the chips can also go down the same chute and can be removed all at once by removing the top filter. Should make for a quick cleanup. 75 microns should do the trick when it comes to just about everything. Nothing of concern should be able to get past the filter. I don't think i will be making a sight glass, since that is just another opportunity for a leak to occur if the seal fails over time or gets bumped then creates a big mess. The pump will exit out of the top side of the container, above the waterline with a quick disconnect hose fitting. this will go to a flex fitting, and after its on the machine i will use PVC to route both air and liquid, and grey conduit for a exterior rated electrical plug inside the machine envelope, along with the lighting.

Waiting to remove the bricks off the top of the table, that will happen this friday. It's hardened up a lot. Good thing i didn't wait 24 hours, its just not long enough.

[diyengineer]

Machine should be arriving in the morning!

Spoke with the painter at work (paints airplanes) it was his opinion to go with fiberglass resin only to remove the wood grain. Bondo might have longterm adhesion issues, he was uncertain but he said that it wouldn't be worth chancing. Looks like Resin it is!

Table top should also be to full strength by tomorrow night. I will weigh it, must be close to 100 pounds? It used 3 contractor size liquid nails tubes 90 ounces in total haha!

[diyengineer]

2 1/4" top screwed and glued! The glue reached full cure (really does take a week). Extremely solid! Its resting on the original steel supports. I installed 90 degree 2" aluminum angles, 66" on each side and they bolt to the steel and lag bolt to the top (3/8" hardware), into both sheets of ply. This will hold everything together even more. I replaced a few pins with 1/2" bolts. Need to knock out the quick release pins, and i will install more 1/2" bolts. So far its a solid as a rock, really impressed. I also lowered the top almost a foot, so the mills table is at the proper height. Next will be adding the sides, lots of work to come.

[diyengineer]

Damn its bigger than expected. After owning a couple G0704's i was suprised at how large it was! The table is not as large, but overall size is almost identical. Super beefy little mill. I took off the splash guard since it originally had some sheet metal damage. Also noticed the E-stop button was slightly damaged, and the sheet metal behind it is slightly bent. Other than that, looks good!! Buying a 1 ton gantry crane this sunday for another project, but ill be able to use that to lift it on the table for a test fit and some more design work.

More to come!

[diyengineer]

Here is the 1 TON crane im picking up this weekend. 10' tall 11' wide with chain hoist. I'm moving another cnc machine from another location into my shop and i want to pulll the trailer in my shop, push the crane over the 105" wide trailer, and lift it up, then drive the trailer away while i lower it down. That's the plan anyways..

Crane needs a couple coats of paint and some TLC, but ill clean it up.

[diyengineer]

Tested out the new pump. Flows a lot of water! Drained the sump in a few minutes. When i put my finger over the hose it sprayed pretty dang good! So it should be more than enough pressure and flow. I really don't know how much i will be using flood coolant, probably only in production mode but i wanna be ready.

Hope everyone has a good weekend!

DiyE

[diyengineer]

New gantry crane, and picked up 3 sheets of Sanded 3/4" hardwood ply. Should save me a lot of prep time. Crane is really high quality. A little rough on the eyes, but ill fix it up shiny. Looking into a Soda blaster kit, so i can blast the old paint off and rust in a non toxic way outside. Have a few other rusty projects that i could also use it on.

[diyengineer]

Been wanting to add a dehumidifier to the shop for the past few months. If i leave paper out, in a matter of hours it seems like it sucks up all the moisture in the air (not good). I'll be on the hunt for a 70Pint dehumidifier today. Whatever i get, im getting the warranty incase the sucker burns out. Need a dry shop!

[diyengineer]

Found a 65 pint unit for a decent deal. Trying to find the best place to put it. I can only imagine the center of my shop would give it the best chance. I have a 300 gallon tank I'm going to modify and use it as the new holding tank. Eventually if I find that it works, ill pipe it outside directly no tank needed.

*update heres a few photos.