[LeeWay]

The issues are resolved now. I was initially hesitant to get into the servo drives parameter settings. I have screwed stuff up before trying to see how it works. Sure none of you guys have had that kind of issue.
It is actually very easy to manipulate. There are 4 buttons on the front of the drive. Once you do it, you will see just how to cycle through the options easily. I did have the drive manual which has information overload. That makes it difficult to ferret out the data needed for the drive on the Pulsar. The Pulsar does have a manual though and there is a section in it about the pertinent parameters on the Pulsar. That keeps it nice and simple.

I did check the tram and it is very close. I was going to tweak it some anyway, but ran into an issue. You need a 12 MM hex key or allen wrench to use on the column bolts. My largest metric size is 10 mm. I do have a hex wrench socket set, but the 12 mm is too tall to get it under the casting into the hole. So, ordered a stand alone wrench in advance of wanting to tram the machine. Luckily it is trammed well as is. I ordered a high torque version from McMaster Carr for under $5. McMaster-Carr

On an unrelated note, I noticed a posting here at the Zone about Solid Works for Vets. It seems a Vet can order the Student copy for $20.00. I have drooled over SW for years now and even considered going back to night school in order to be able to afford it. A simple copy of one of my DD214's is all that was needed. The $20.00 is for shipping and handling. Mine is in the mail.
I take back all the bad things I might have said about them in the past. Looking forward to playing with some new software.
Thanks to the OP (Terry) of that thread for posting. I'll post a link here as well for anyone qualified and interested.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/tormac...rks-offer.html

[hayes]

Lee,
there's no looking back now! Thank you for serving, and congrats on scoring the SW deal. SW is by far the best 3D modeling software I've found (been using it for over 10 years). I'm pretty happy with HSM Works for the CAM side as well.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

There is no better CAM than HSMXpress/HSMWorks. The way I look at it, I paid $4K for SW, just so I could use HSMXpress, and it was worth every penny. I wish I could afford HSMWorks, but that will have to wait.

Regards,
Ray L.

[LeeWay]

Thanks, Guys.
After seeing what you can do with HSMXpress, I intend to see what it is all about.

I did finally order all the tool holders and collets to hold the drills for the rest of my taps. That should speed things up as well.

[LeeWay]

The allen wrench I mentioned is made in the US, BTW. Nice quality.

Well,, I had to cut 1/4" off the short side of the wrench with a grinder to get it to fit in there. Tight spot.
If the Torus would have needed any tramming, I would have already had a special tool.

[LeeWay]

I finally managed to true up the tramming some more on this Pulsar.
It wasn't too bad to start with, but now it is within .001" variance all the way around. I chucked up a big allen wrench and used my digital height gauge. With the LDB, this works nicely. It has an ever so slight nod forward now and the left side is still down a bit. All the shims were added to the left side where john already had one in there. I think I can certainly live with that. I'll have to see how well my face mill does.

I always cut steps in my vise jaws ( Monster) as well. That helps true it up to the spindle some. It was cutting pretty well before I trammed it. Should see glass smooth cuts now.

[LeeWay]

If anyone is hesitating putting these inexpensive LED lights over a machine, do yourself a favor. The sooner the better. They work a lot better than I anticipated. One on each side is perfect. They nullify each others shadows well and puts the light right where you need it. I will be using similar again on my 80/20 mill. It uses a CFL on each side, but they are not direct lighting like these LED's. Pictures will follow at some point.

[LeeWay]

What method do you guys like for tramming? I used the allen wrench about 5" long. I was able to tram without removing the vise.
I have seen the dual dial indicator holders, but not sure that they would be any better. Just curious.

[engnerdan]

I use one of these, this one sold by SPI but there is another company that makes them that are identical.



They can easily be made like this one.


To use it I bring it down until one of the indicators have about 0.100 compression on it. I zero that indicator, then rotate it 180 and set the other indicator to zero (when it is at the same position the first one was). Then I spin it back to face me, the first indicator should read zero again and the other indicator will show how far off you are.

[kvom]

I do something similar but with only one DI. Before using that I do a preliminary alignment of the spindle nose and table with a machinist square. That gets me to within a couple of thou deviation on the two DI positions.

[engnerdan]

I picked up the same mini pallet jack last week and immediately took the leveling casters off my Torus Pro. Much to my disappointment there is not much extra headroom built into these from the factory. I thought the Torus Pro being a couple hundred pounds over the rating of 1100lbs of the pallet jack would not be a problem. But from the store the pallet jack would not life my mill. Be advised there is a pressure relief adjustment on the right side of the hydraulic jack, it has a screw with a rubber sealing washer covering it. Remove the screw and washer and down inside is a slotted screw, clockwise increases the lifting capacity and counter clockwise lowers it. I found it to be very unstable lifting from the front of the cabinet, from the side with the pallet jack pushed towards the back it moves it quit well.

A mini pallet jack like this but with forks a foot longer, and a capacity of 1500lbs or more would be ideal.

-Dan

I contacted John about the missing gas struts. He mentioned that they are not needed and actually detract from performance. He also mentioned that this is the standard on all the Pulsars now, so if you receive one and they ain't there, now you know why. They are a necessity on my 80/20 mill. They were on the Torus as well, but I never removed them to see how it would work without them. Fewer parts is always a plus.

I am waiting for the servo drive to arrive. I think he upgraded that part. This one has the smooth stepper installed. It still has the old BOB like the Torus had, but John said he would send me one of the new Arduino BOB's when he gets those ready. That should be very nice.

I ordered a Mini Pallet Jack last week and it showed up yesterday. I chose not to buy casters for this one and I think it was a good choice. The pallet jack is sweet. Rolls much better than the casters I used on the Torus. All for close to the same money. Northern Tools.
It is a mini pallet Jack, but very nice quality. I bought it on sale as well. $30.00 off.
It is small enough to stay stored under the Pulsar.

[LeeWay]

As was mentioned earlier in the thread, my machine is a little guy. I do move it from the side. Under the wing. Good to know about that adjustment. I haven't needed it, but may in the future.

[LeeWay]

Any of you guys ever sheared the alignment pin in an R8 spindle?
This happened to me yesterday.
It sheared the pin off somehow.
Is it safe enough to run without it?
I hope so, because we are.
Thoughts?

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Lee,

It will work just fine without the pin.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Kenny Duval]

I don't have a pin in mine. I just use the spindle lock hole to make sure I am putting the collet back on the same way. I face it forward and align the pin slot in the collet with it.

[LeeWay]

Thanks Guys.

[LeeWay]

Guys, I just ordered the Shars 4" double vise. My original is still working with the modification I made for it using an aluminum soft jaw as the center, but I think it is time to upgrade.
I am going to try using parallels with this one instead of soft jaws to start with. I don't think I will like it as well as the soft jaws, but we will see.
The new vise is 18" long.
I know one of the guys here cut the tail off of his and I will need to do the same. I don't recall who that was, but if any of you do or remember the thread, I would appreciate it. I have a big band saw, so that isn't an issue. I would just like to see how much and how it was cut.
Thanks, Guys.

[AiR_GuNNeR]

Any of you guys ever sheared the alignment pin in an R8 spindle?
This happened to me yesterday.
It sheared the pin off somehow.
Is it safe enough to run without it?
I hope so, because we are.
Thoughts?

I'm probably going to have the same problem. I'm setup to use the TTS system and my collet sticks. I normally have to give the tool a rap with a rubber hammer. Looking at the pin, it's wore half way through. My thought on if I need the pin or not is if the collet is putting enough pressure on the pin to slowly shear it, then without the pin, the collet would be creeping wouldn't i?

[LeeWay]

That may be possible, but I am not sure about it. I imagine that the pin is very soft material anyway. Just the pressure against it from repeated tightening and loosening would be enough to wear it away and I imagine that is what happened in my case.
We change a lot of tools in it.
Once tight, I seriously doubt the collet could move at all.
The TTS might move before the collet I would think.
Lee

[AiR_GuNNeR]

That may be possible, but I am not sure about it. I imagine that the pin is very soft material anyway. Just the pressure against it from repeated tightening and loosening would be enough to wear it away and I imagine that is what happened in my case.
We change a lot of tools in it.
Once tight, I seriously doubt the collet could move at all.
The TTS might move before the collet I would think.
Lee

In may case I build a pneumatic over hydraulic pressure booster so there is no torque to speak of from tightening . I'm waiting for the pin to shear away eventually and I guess I'll see!