[BAMCNC.COM]

Good idea, I'll dig up their links and maybe a short blurb on their channels. I just did the ALS challange on my channel, I used Dry Ice to be different.

As for Jody, I've watched him since his early days, I've supported him from buying shirts to tig fingers. He has came A LONG way since the early days.

[LRF]

Here is an idea for a video that one of you fine video people may want to consider. That would be a video about the process to setup multiple zero's. G54 is given but setting up G55, G56 and so on isn't covered anywhere on YouTube that I know of.
Got to give credit where credit is due, the idea actually came from Rory, who many of you know. I was discussing this with him because up until now I had no need to know and he told me the how (Thanks for the assistance). But a video would be nice in our opinion.

[mountaindew]

Here is an idea for a video that one of you fine video people may want to consider. That would be a video about the process to setup multiple zero's. G54 is given but setting up G55, G56 and so on isn't covered anywhere on YouTube that I know of.
Got to give credit where credit is due, the idea actually came from Rory, who many of you know. I was discussing this with him because up until now I had no need to know and he told me the how (Thanks for the assistance). But a video would be nice in our opinion.

I don't have video technology yet! when I do I will do some videos.
There are many strategy's for using coordinate systems g54 -g59 and offsets for them.
As shown on threads and video they can be used to set multiple parts in vises and infinite number of other uses.
For me everything is cam specific. I use sprutcam and posted one thread called going cagey.It shows how I draw extra lines in model then use them to set coordinates like g54-g55...for multi sided parts. I even group all my cam operations first by g5X and then name of operation.
One example in that thread shows a 6 sided cube milled with ball in center all done with different coordinates for each side, even different type of operations for each side.
All in one program with fixtures and all the details. just load material and follow directions for each operation as shown in the cam tree
One of many ways to set and use these and everyday I see and learn more ways
md

[SWATH]

Funny you mention it. I've been looking for a video explaining it as well. G54 work offsets have always confused the hell out of me for some reason. I played with them on the mill before but never really got them. Then a couple of nights ago I had a real need to use it so I fiddled until suddenly I figured it out (to some extent). I think it was just the quirkyness of Mach that kept me clueless about G54 offsets.

[hoss2006]

Artsoft made a tutorial here about Homing, Limits and Offsets.
ArtSoft USA - Video Tutorials
The offset system is basically just telling how far your parts origin is from the home switches.
G54 is the default but you can put several parts on your table and give each one it's own offset, (G55, G56 etc.) this works well for fixture plates or multiple vises for example.
Hoss

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I'm not sure why this is so confusing for so many people. The machine powers up in G54. To set the G54 offsets, simply position the machine where you want the 0,0 point to be, and zero the DROs. Or, position the machine to any known point on the part or fixture, and type in the coordinates of that point. G55 works exactly the same way, you just have to make them active first by typing "G55" in the MDI line first. G56-G59 are exactly the same. You can change fixtures in your program at any time by simply inserting G54-G59 in the g-code at the appropriate point.

Say I have two vises mounted on the table, so I can make two copies of the same part in one run. I would want G54 setup to the left front corner of the fixed jaw on the first vise, and G55 setup to the left front corner of the fixed jaw on the second vise. I would first make sure G54 is selected by typing "G54" on the MDI line, then hitting return. Next I would locate the spindle exactly over the corner of the vise (using probing, a edge finder, or any other means), then zero the X/Y DROs. I would then load a tool of known length, and touch-off on the top of the part, then set the Z DRO to the tools length. Next I would MDI "G55", and repeat the whole process for the second vise. I would then MDI "G54", and run the program to machine the first part, then MDI "G55" and run the program a second time to machine the second part. That's all there is to it.

Regards,
Ray L.

[anglin]

Here's my YouTube channel:

https://www.youtube.com/user/mc2racing7emh

I'm not nearly as advanced as a lot of the other folks posting Tormach (and non-Tormach) videos. Family and job keep me busy, but I do what I can do. I'm familiar with the other Tormach channels out there and I try to keep up with their videos. My goal with the videos is to fill in the information gaps where I can, like the video below, where I documented the installation of the Tormach Power Draw Bar. The Tormach PDB installation has been covered before, but I covered the modification that prevents the PDB from dropping the tool when the spindle is turning. That hasn't been covered anywhere else.

Tormach PCNC 1100 - Power Draw Bar Installation and ATC Spindle Interlock Modification - YouTube

Subscribe and enjoy!

[pickled]

Ok I took some time today and set up a YouTube account. I pulled out the camera and thought of a fun example to put out there for people to see how NOT to run parts :-). I would give you all the PETA like spiel about nothing being harmed in the making of this quick film, BUT I would certainly be lying. All and all it isn't pretty! After a quick swap of the EM I actually just adjusted X by -30 tho and Z by -5 and salvaged the workpiece.

Enjoy!

[pickled]

Oh yeah and BTW I was a LONG ways away from that action thanks to Gorilla tape and PVC pipe :-).

[anglin]

Nice!

[jid2]

My Youtube channel finalized the equipment upgrade.

[Hirudin]

My Youtube channel finalized the equipment upgrade.

Sweeeeeeeet!

Are you uploading a vid?

What's in the boxs in the rear? Coolant tank?

[rlockwood]

Are you going to go full wrustle over here? You never go full wrustle..

[jid2]

Haha, no. I think this is about it, threw a couple photos in my old machine build thread. Not a great place to post here without doing it in one of the machine specific areas.

Other boxes - yeah coolant tank and the 4th axis. Coolant tank is big.

[mountaindew]

Coolant pumps look like more power then my tormach mill has for the spindle.
Bet those will put out some gpms

[agurkmedia]

Nothing special, its my first Real cut on the Tormach.

Got it last tuesday, had it up and running this Saturday. Sunday was the test day.
Tested it on some 7075 T6 alu that I got from a friend that works on airplane repairs.

The clamping of the piece was not good, I am aware of that, and I took my precautions.

Today I got like 140KG of alu 6082T6, soon ready to start a small "production". See picture below

[Hirudin]

That's a hell of a first cut! I think a coolant upgrade might be in order.

[agurkmedia]

That's a hell of a first cut! I think a coolant upgrade might be in order.

Yeah it was a bit heavy First cut, but I was confident that the machine could deliver. Altough the facing cut was abit hard (not really, just the piece not clamped good) the endmill cut was really nice.

I used 12mm stepdown with a 2.5mm stepover on the 6.35mm endmill 3flute.

As you can see in the vid on 4:53 the Mach3 stopped...since it was on line 500.. so I had to rerun the part (left it out on the video) after I installed the license that came with the machine

You are trying to prepare every cut with gwizard and all that...but you forget to install the license file for the controller? i lol'd abit when I found out why it stopped.

Anyhow I am very pleased with the performance of the machine!

[agurkmedia]

And yes, the coolant pump did not handle deep pockets very well, hopefully I will not have any order with pockets deeper than 10mm, but if so, you have any recommondations?

[Hirudin]

I wish I could give you some advice based on experience, but all I've used on my Novakon mill is a FogBuster. Anything that would get those chips off the top (a steady spray of compressed air?) would probably be a big help.