[Spinnetti]

Way covers trap too much coolant and are a pain to clean... when will one of you enterprising fabricators make some decent sheet metal covers like the pro machines? I'd buy some! (Mikini has em, wonder if they'd fit?)...

[WOTDesigns]

I call second set! I'm sick of having to hose chips off the Y after every single cycle.

Brian
WOT Designs

[mike sr1]

I use a "bib" on the back of the table for that very reason, the chips will also chew up those way covers.

[Spinnetti]

I use a "bib" on the back of the table for that very reason, the chips will also chew up those way covers.

That's an option, but the covers and bib feel kludgey.. I'm hoping somebody will make some so I can ditch the stock stuff and have nice neat covers that don't collect chips and coolant. I suggested it to Tormach as an extra-cost option, but they didn't seem too interested.

[twocik]

I'm 110% with you on this !!!! I've played around with a few designs, but nothing solid. The wipers are the biggest pain to fit in properly or should I say make. Next would be the Y backside clearance. I can't remember off the top of my head, but they'd need to be under 1" - 1.5" W to clear. Last, don't forget the cross scissors frames.

Here's what the scissor frames look like.


Write up found here
CNCCookbook: IH Mill Way Covers

[Jeff E.]

Tormach makes a "Chip flap" for the y Axis. I made my own and it works very well - virtually no chips collect in the way cover.

32780 - Y-axis Chip Flap Upgrade for PCNC 1100


Jeff

[mike sr1]

delete

[Spinnetti]

I've seen some that have no fancy bits on the back side, just a lip - as it extends, one piece catches the next one on the lip and pulls it along. Going the other way, it just pushes them to stack up.. Also, made like a shallow "A" frame for max coolant return.. Shouldn't bee too hard to do in sheet metal, just would rather make parts rather than modify the machine

[tbaker2500]

Telaflex® - Telescopic Steel Covers | Telescopic Covers | Gortite | A&A Family

Telescopic Steel Covers | Hennig Inc.

BUWW - New Way Covers

Just a few.

[Spinnetti]

This is the style I was looking for Only gap is $$$ - on the links you provided, I suppose if you have to ask price...... Mikini managed to do at the Tormach level of machine... Maybe I can get them there..

[adamboon]

I thought for a long time about this and came up with a solution for my problem. When I was using the fly-cutter, big curly chips would get stuck in the y-axis bellows and they even started to puncture them. So I designed some stainless steel sliding covers to mount on top of the bellows.



Adam

[bill south]

adamboon;
Can you share the construction details?
Many thanks.
Bill

[Whizbang]

I second what bill south said. Those are really slick!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many old bridgeport and other knee pill owners have been looking for a metal solution for years. I may have to make a set of these for and old Mill right vertical mill that has abrasion on the dovetails do to chips falling on them!

Awesome Idea Adamboon, Hope you can share with us

[LeeWay]

I'd be interested as well. I have another thread going where I was just trying to do a simple Z axis cover. Offsetting the screws as was done here, would have helped me out a lot I think. Very nice solution.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/novako...ml#post1463236

[Fastest1]

That is a simple design! I like simple. I could probably make those without breaking too much stuff. Maybe even attach them to the bottom of the Z.

[LeeWay]

I think Ray did some like that on his knee mill. He used hinges. Takes care of two covers at the same time. I had similar made out of rubber on my first installation on my 80/20 mill. Worked pretty well, but my mounting bolts were under the table and corroded quickly. That rubber did help keep the bellows clear, but ultimately the front bellows did fail due to abrasion from chips. I then just used a rubber curtain on the Z of that machine. Rubber curtain bellows on the front and rear of Y as well. Not that great, but doesn't pack chips like the accordion style does.

The design in the video does look simple enough. Just make the reliefs in each section large enough to catch all the screws from the lower coarses. My fasteners worked pretty well too. They just did not bypass each other like Adam's does.

[Fastest1]

I have been thru the rubber strips and its variants. Enough time wasted there though the price is right. Even tried pantyhose at 1 time over the vise to the head to contain chips. Oddly enough it worked very well but still looking for that commercial like durability. The simplicity of this is easily achievable and if oriented vertically (as in attached to the Z) chips wouldnt get pushed under the joints. I have no intention of running anything under them as in a liner.

[LeeWay]

Wipers can help with that. I used .063" thick SS on mine. It is kinda flimsy because it has no bends, but still stout enough that I don't think it would allow many chips to pass. The first image below shows the wiper on the rear of the Y on the Torus. It is a solid piece that slides into the column. The Z axis cover I came up with actually wipe that cover before it ever gets to the wiper. I do need to install a small UHMW strip on the bottom of my Z cover to prevent wear on the Y axis cover. I think that a sheet of SS might wear on that pretty quickly. Constantly rubbing or scraping back and forth. No pressure. Just gravity.

I don't think my Z axis design would be a good fit with Adam's Y cover for that reason. It would need to be held off the Y axis cover enough to clear it at the bottom and prevent binding.

The second image below shows the wipers on the front Y axis cover.

[adamboon]

I had some stainless steel laser cut and it's just offset bolts in the slots and the covers slide independently. It's worked good so far. They sometimes get a little crooked but straiten themselves out.

Adam

[rlockwood]

I've seen some that have no fancy bits on the back side, just a lip - as it extends, one piece catches the next one on the lip and pulls it along. Going the other way, it just pushes them to stack up.. Also, made like a shallow "A" frame for max coolant return.. Shouldn't bee too hard to do in sheet metal, just would rather make parts rather than modify the machine

Fadal ones work as you describe, and work quite well.. The incorporate a spring to help keep them from binding on collapse, and some hard rubber wipers to seal out coolant. Angled/sloped ones are the ticket, though..

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