[CROSSHATCH]

Good afternoon Gents,

I have an unusual problem regarding my Proximity sensors (stock set-up, I didn't add new limits or any other switches). I don't typically home my machine since I move around with fixtures.

My point regarding limited use is that from the beginning, I have homed the machined very rarely and never altered settings in Mach3. Having said that, all of my sensors are activated at present time when they shouldn't be. Again, I have not altered settings as to induce this problem.

I blew off any chips that I though might be activating the switches but all three (3) are activated with the RED LED indicating this. I cannot home them because I get a message saying they are activated. If I unplug them from the BOB, LED goes off but instantly goes back on once plugged in again.


PS. My safety latch on my Spindle housing never triggered the E-Stop or stopped the Spindle from day one, I sort of had other fish to fry at the time. Anyone experience this before?...connections look good.

Regards,

-Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Jason,

Could be one of the sensors has simply died, or coolant got into the connector. Disconnect all the sensors, then plug them in one at a time. You will probably find two of them are working, and one is not. Once you figure out which one it is, disconnect the sensor from the cable (there is a connector screwed on at the base of the sensor). If disconnecting the sensor eliminates the problem, then the sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. If not, then either coolant got into the connector, or the cable has a short.

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

I do run flood coolant. I will have to check this, thanks for posting up.

-Jason

[CROSSHATCH]

Must have been some weird Mach3 glitches. Worked fine today....

What causes Mach3 and the machine to not be in sync? I cannot stand when I am pressing the keyboard the Dros move and the machine does not move other than pulse...? This loses position and does not give me confidence when doing some serious machining.

Thanks Ray for posting before,

-Jason

[AUSTINMACHINING]

I had a similar issue. Turned out to be a very thin steel sliver (no idea where it came from) on the limit switch so they must be pretty sensitive.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

That's also what I'd expect if coolant got into it - after a day, it would dry out and work fine again.

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

/Rant
Attachment 235102

[Novakon]

Hi Jason,

You have a lot of conflicting indications as I read this and it is a little unclear in some areas. Please send us an e-mail when it would be a good time for us to call and go over each point in detail.

Regards,
Novakon Team

[CROSSHATCH]

Sorry, my post was a bit of rant...I would have to say it seems that in terms of hardware, the relay was not seated properly or a loose connection was present. I blame this on my odd power problems as of late.

The Charge Pump though, I would like to disable. Why is it losing the signal has yet to be determined; I'd like to figure this out but If I can remedy the problem with a simple Hi/LO on the BOB PIN for the Charge Pump and bypass it, I will.

It just causes me too many headaches.

I will clear up my thoughts and contact you.

Anyone on the forums deal with Charge Pump issues?


Thanks all,

-Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Jason,

Disabling the charge pimp is a bad idea, for several reasons. It is there for a good reason, and should work properly. I've never had a problem with mine. Find the actual problem, and fix, it. I'm sure Novakon can help you get that sorted out in short order.

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

Ray, you are right..

I do need to fix it. I did rant above, I do apologize it just bugs the heck out of me on most days.


Thanks,

Jason

[SCzEngrgGroup]

What would be helpful would be to write down the state of all the LEDs on the BOB the next time it weirds out on you. That should tell what's really going on. After noting the LEDs states, try hitting the reset button on the BOB, and see if that restores proper operation. The CHARGE PUMP LED on the BOB should be blinking fairly fast if all is well, and will blink about once/second it the charge pump signal from Mach3 is lost.

Also, there is micro-processor on the BOB a socketed DIP. Make sure it is securely seated in it's socket, and no pins are bent and not seated properly in the socket. Also make sure the PP cable is fully installed, and screwed down at both the PC and the BOB.

Regards,
Ray L.

[bill south]

I think the BOB is a Novakon product. Is there a manual on that particular board or is there a different BOB we can purchase? I'm working with John and crew on a problem with my machine but I sure do miss having a decent (or not decent) manual to help with the troubleshooting.
SpeedsCustom, I apologize for jumping into your thread but I did think it was on subject!
Many thanks to Novakon for the great support and to the rest of you guys for posting. To me, the posts are all tiny little lessons to be learned.

Bill

[keithmcelhinney]

The bob is definitely a Novakon product. Just got my replacement last week and cured a lot of the weird problems I was having. From what I understand there is a new version of the bob coming in the near future...

-Keith

[kvom]

I recently had to replace the BOB in my series 1 NM200 (C11G), and had to order it from CNC4PC.com as he no longer stocked it. It would surprise me a lot of John manufactured the current BOB himself, as they are commodity items these days. But any printing on the board should tell for sure.

[keithmcelhinney]

It says novakon on it and he told me he had to solder one up for me...

[CROSSHATCH]

Interesting...

Mine seems to be ok now, been machining for about a week (not extensively, I wish though...)

I sometimes do lose the signal over extended periods of down time; ex: If I leave and go to my office to get some new G-Code...come back and I can't move the machine.


It always gets fixed when I unplug the 12 volts to the BOB from the PSU, I plug it back in and it always works. Always...

So that still happens.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Interesting...

Mine seems to be ok now, been machining for about a week (not extensively, I wish though...)

I sometimes do lose the signal over extended periods of down time; ex: If I leave and go to my office to get some new G-Code...come back and I can't move the machine.


It always gets fixed when I unplug the 12 volts to the BOB from the PSU, I plug it back in and it always works. Always...

So that still happens.

Have you tried simple pressing the reset button on the BOB?

Regards,
Ray L.

[CROSSHATCH]

Sorry for the late response, no I have not. Reason being, I only see CPU Reset which resets everything including the computer.

[bill south]

There is a button on the BOB itself for resetting the board microprocessor. I have to play with mine to get the servos to lock up and run normally. I've been led to believe that there is a new BOB design coming fairly soon. I'll change mine when the new one is available.
Hope this helps.
Bill