[ecurb5]

Yep, that Y connector is two 4" to a 5" inlet... I have one of these DC units..

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

[rwskinner]

I finished up the stand, sandblasted it, and got a coat of primer on today. Now I remember how to make the wind blow and how to call up every bug in the county!!
How could I forget that I'll start of the first top coat tomorrow then try to get one more on it Monday evening if the weather stays nice. A wonderful 72F here today.

Richard

[rwskinner]

Ouch, that 5" galvanized spiral pipe Rockler has is high dollar stuff. $30 for each 90... Must be some good stuff.
Does the snap together HVAC duct work okay if it's taped up good.

[ger21]

I was going to recommend the HVAC stuff. It's dirt cheap at Home Depot.

I've heard people say that it can collapse with a big dust collector, but I don't think it'll be an issue with the HF. I haven't tried it, though.

[Spk64]

I have used hvac on my system but it is a smaller dust collector. One thing with hvac elbows is they generally have a tight radius, vs a nice sweeping radius.
Anyway check out Penn State Industries. Prices and selection much better.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/premium-elbows.html

Steve

[rwskinner]

My Rustoleum Safety Red seems more Orange than red but it depends on the lighting. It darkened up a little more after a couple of more coats.

Some of the brackets and Linear motion kits came in last night and I got those together, just waiting on Pro Drive Kits and extrusions. I got the rails cleaned and painted - Man, they got dinged up bad in shipping. Very hard to get any smooth motion because most of the dings are on the edges. I don't like that much. I guess I will try to sand the bumps and dings out. If they don't work out I may have to do something else with them.

Electronics are done and tested. I cheated some and stole the G540 panel off my small CNC 10x22 since I don't ever use it much. It was the first panel I did so I rewired some of it.

Not too much for pictures right now, but here is the stand before the additional coats of paint.
Attachment 219706

[rwskinner]

Extrusion made it in last night. It was well packed and looks in perfect condition. We got to it before UPS could chunk it in the floor. New driver and he tosses everything if he thinks nobody is watching.

I was to take the steel rails that had the edges dinged up and I polished out the best I could. I then used them on the gantry and put the worst edges to the center where nothing rides on them.

I adjusted each one of my bearing carriages by themselves using one of the rails I had on the table. I then mounted one of them to the bottom of my Z plate and squared the edges nice and tightened it down. The upper carriage is mounted to the z plate but left barely snug so I can adjust it. So I then take two c clamps and tighten up the assembly on the rail while I tighten the upper carriage bolts down. I remove the c clamps and my upper and lower edge bearings are loose. I repeated the process several times and they are never tight against the steel rail. Can I actually get those tight where they don't slip? Any Tricks?

[rwskinner]

I don't have my frame square and tight yet. I'll do that this evening when I get off work. My plan is to machine 4 6061 blocks to mount the frame to the stand and I can shim between the 8020 and the stand to get it all leveled up good. So basically a 4 point mounting system.

[rwskinner]

Using the all thread trick to pull the two bearing carriages together worked like a champ! Thanks to Tool Designer's thread.

Richard

[Donny M. Carter]

Table really turned out nice!

[rwskinner]

A little more done. All squared up and gantry is square.

The extrusions aren't real straight. I had a hard time getting square with a large square then noticed several extrusions had a slight bow. I ended up using the corner to corner method. I was using the square just to get it close then I planned on measuring from the corners anyways.

With the frame true and square, the gantry still lacked 1/2" from touching the stop on one side when the other side was in contact. I had to do like most others and loosen it up and get it squared.

[rwskinner]

Anyone know what the gear rack spacing should be for CRP4848 with the Pro Drive upgrade? My drives won't be in until next week and I'd like to proceed on aligning the gear racks, adding the cable trays, and doing a few other items. (I think none of that will interfere with adjusting the gear racks later)

One thing that's probably going to come back and haunt me that 8x40mm bolt that should go into the carriages for the tension bracket on the pro-drives. I wish Ahren would had thrown 3 of them in there so I could of stuck them in in the beginning. My plan is to run the gantry all the way to one end and try to remove the fixed bearing bolt and replace it next week.

[plampasso]

Looks real good, great build. How are those casters working out? Looks like they take the place of separate casters and leveling feet ?

Paul

[rwskinner]

Those are the leveling casters from accesscasters. 2F80 if I remember correctly. I have the 4" ones on my RF45 which is a 4" square tubing frame 1/4" thick topped with a 32x32x 1" thick steel plate. Heavy beast and it rolls around with no problem. The router rolls very easy with the 2" leveling casters.

Richard

Looks real good, great build. How are those casters working out? Looks like they take the place of separate casters and leveling feet ?

Paul

[rwskinner]

Here are the little aluminum spacer blocks I made for 4 point leveling. The reason for them is because after welding the rectangle tubing it's not real straight. Even though it appears to be there is some slight warping. The 4 point lifts it up and allows 4 spots to leveled to.

These have a inverted t slot to hold them in and keep them from twisting since there is only a single bolt per corner. Nothing fancy but it works.

I'm shutdown waiting on motor mounts and VFD wire.

Richard

[rwskinner]

I wanted to update this on the bowed extrusions. I had one extrusion cross member in the middle that was just barely a tad long and had a burr on it from being cut, so cleaned the burr and I moved it to the end. When I had this one in the center and used my pipe clamps to pull the ends tight it had caused a small bow in the center of the sides. Now it's all good. It wasn't enough to really hurt anything since we were talking maybe 0.030 - 0.040" or so and the rails determine the path of the gantry anyways.

Overall, this is a very nice kit and goes together very easy and seems to be very sturdy. Kudos to CRP!! There is much more work in building the table / stand and wiring than building the machine. Pro Drives will be in today.

I was bragging about it being in the 70's last weekend, Burrrr, should have kept my mouth shut. It's been pretty darn cold in the shop the last few days!

I milled out some angle brackets for the front of the machine at 5am this morning and I'm still numb from it being so cold in there. I need to start on my other shop soon so I can work in there more comfortable. The CNC Mill was even acting a little sluggish this morning.


Richard

A little more done. All squared up and gantry is square.



The extrusions aren't real straight. I had a hard time getting square with a large square then noticed several extrusions had a slight bow. I ended up using the corner to corner method. I was using the square just to get it close then I planned on measuring from the corners anyways.

With the frame true and square, the gantry still lacked 1/2" from touching the stop on one side when the other side was in contact. I had to do like most others and loosen it up and get it squared.

[cncrr]

Hey Richard,

Your machine looks like it is coming together very nicely. I started watching you thread a couple of weeks ago just before I started putting my CRP4848 machine together. I have to agree with you on its amazing how fast you can put these kits together and how easy they are. I'm glad I desided to come back and look you up, your machine looks great. I guess I need to take a few more pictures tomorrow and catch up my build log.

I'll let you know about the location of the gear racks as I just sent off an e-mail to Ahren at CNC Router Parts asking that exact question.

Chuck
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

[rwskinner]

Thanks. I can grab the gear rack positions for you in the morning if you like. My drives came in today and I have the machine under power now. I have to wire up the prox switches and 220 for the VFD tomorrow. What's the link to your build?

Richard

[cncrr]

Thanks Richard.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_ro...ene_idaho.html

[rwskinner]

1.250" on both gear racks for the X and A axis, and 0.825" for the Y. This is the spacing from end of the rack to the end of the extrusion for the tensioner side of the cars.

Richard