Remember when you set yours up the first time?
Attachment 213498
Some assembly required!
Any hints and or thoughts on final assembly, cleaning and prep not well covered in manual?
Or if I could I would have done .... ?
md
Remember when you set yours up the first time?
Attachment 213498
Some assembly required!
Any hints and or thoughts on final assembly, cleaning and prep not well covered in manual?
Or if I could I would have done .... ?
md
Look like you have a 1100, not sure if it's much different than my 770 when it's running.. but put some soft foamy tape around the edge of the stand door. Mine rattle quite a bit when it run.
Look nice and clean now..
Good idea on stand doors!
I will put some rubber stops on the jambs of each door.
Sounds easy enough.
Thanks for idea and comment
Yes, I remember when I first set-up my new mill.
It was exactly one month ago, November 15th.
I'm still learning the ins-and-outs, and enjoying making chips without cranking handles.
Congrats on your new toy =)
Interesting location right in front of the door. Sure will make it easy to get behind it!
I have rafters above I was able to just slap together a frame out of 4 pieces of conduit and 4 90s for shower curtains just like on my x3, but you can very easily (thought about this recently) make a cage out of aluminum angle (cheap) that rests on the sides and is self supporting but very easily removable.
If you have time, and the need, a nice enclosure is, well, nicer.
Brian
WOT Designs
Located it there for couple reasons,
I am somewhat handicapped and need lots of room to work on, service or upgrade the machine.
Decent level spot on garage floor .... older home and they didn't do compaction back then I guess so concrete floor is bad in places.
And of course the rest of the garage is full of stuff.
A problem I do see is during colder months the oil system might clog or not work correctly.
50 year old wood garage doors leak cold air.
I run mine down in the 40's, and the oil is slower but still works fine. Congrats for getting one!
One suggestion if you anticipate having to move the mill periodically and don't have a pallet jack: install a set of leveling casters like these:
McMaster-Carr
They let you lower the mill and use the casters or raise it for a stable mount on rubber pads. I bought a set from another company that mounts with a single stud, the same size as the stud on the pads for the Tormach stand.
Adding an enclosure, at least around the enclosure is also a very good idea. I've got chips on the floor all over the area around my mill.
Mike
Michael Henry is spot on. (just Google leveling casters since McMaster-Carr links never work right)
I made them on my 12x37 lathe and my x3 table (36x48 with steel top) and I can drop them both off the levelers and push them around in about 10 minutes each.
Brian
WOT Designs
Hi Brian and Mike
Great idea, even better if mill was still on lift.
Was not hard to set mill on stand but then again it was not real easy.
It would take me a solid day or more to do it now... need to sleep on that.....setting this up myself "no help"
Thanks for great input and ideas.
md
Sorry about that - here is a link to the ones I bought:
Foot Master® GDR-80S Medium Duty Threaded Stem Leveling Casters
They are overkill at 1100 lbs/caster but I'd rather be safe than sorry and the company rates them for a 2200-lb load for 4 casters. I opted for the ones with a ratchet lever that can be extended to gain a bit more leverage while raising or lowering the mill. I've seen much less expensive casters, but these seem very well made and I'm happy with them.
Mike
Mike
Good find Michael! I would pay the difference today to have the ratcheting action! It's tough at some angles to get the wrench in and I always think "I wish I could use my ratcheting box wrenches.
MD - though definitely easier without the mill above, it should be pretty easy to jack the whole thing up on some blocks and adapt the screws to ate right to the screw on the Tormach. May need to have one of us lathe owners turn a bolt for each corner though. I don't remember the bolt size on the Tormach, but let's say it's 12mm and the caster is threaded 3/8. All you need is a 12mm bolt with the head cut off and 3/8 threads turned with a 0.25 recess between and then you an just bolt the casters on to the corners where the leveling feet from the Tormach go.
Brian
WOT Designs
I like the concept and it would appear to be easier to level and has a built in isolation pad.
The McMaster units are lower capacity at 600# per unit for the 12mm stud. In any four point support or lifting with four chains you must assume that the load could balance on two of the supports or chains and these two points could assume the total load. With that said, I would want the higher capacity of the units that you found at 1,100# each.
Where were you able to purchase these and what was the cost?
nitewatchman
Brian/MD: The ones I linked to have a 12 mm threaded hole and come with set screw studs that fit the holes for the standard feet in the Tormach base. The studs that came with the casters were a bit short so I'd recommend buying some longer studs if you get those casters. I used a HF 3,000-lb racing jack to elevate each corner enouch so that it could be blocked up while the caster was installed. AIR, (3) blocks of 2x6 wood were enough to get the new casters installed. The HF jack I used has a low profile so it easy to get under mill base and HF used to have it on sale frequently for $80.
Nite: I got mine (GDR-80S) from Hoists, Benches, Cranes, Chairs, Conveyors, Lift Tables, Pallet Trucks, Stackers and it looks like they ran me $420 with shipping. Apparently Footmaster follows the same guidelines you recommend - they rate the caster capacity at 1,100 lbs/caster and recommend a maximum load of 2,200 lbs for 4 casters.
Mike
Ebay auction 161046262736 has four GDR-80S for ~$300 + shipping.
Perfect and in Ivory color
That's good price, I looked on McMaster and 110$ each was normal for 1100 pound units
I will look around for a low profile jack also to make install easy.
Like you pointed out these will just screw right onto base.
Great idea for future mod.
Thanks again for all the help
Lane
You only need to lift a few inches to insert the wheels. I've lifted machines heavier than a Tormach using just a pry bar with fulcrum and supporting it on a stack of wooden blocks as its lifted. Work your way around the machine inserting a short piece of 1x6 at each corner as you go. It's really pretty easy and doesn't take long. BE CAREFUL!
On their way, ordered black ones from eBay!!!
I have to take the 1100 down after it finishes the current job anyway and realign the ATC. We had a tool stick in the spindle and not release during tool change, raises hell with the ATC alignment.
Also I am going to reattach the second tool tray arm to the ATC bracket that was removed when the ATC was added. Will either cut down the original bracket or fab a new one.
A good time to add the leveling casters.
nitewatchman
Another Setup Question!
Why do these machines with all the advance electronics and controls NOT have a 4 wire power cord?
And or has anyone changed this?
Is this not code?
Does it effect the drivers or something?
Any help would be great
Lane