[FBJR]

Well, back in 2006 just after I bought a Wabeco 1210 ready to go with onecnc I had a little issue with a garage fire.

Be Carefull!! - RC Groups

The mill along with many other things were burned, but much could be recovered with some TLC.

After a year or so of moving the mill around, some cleaning and purchasing a new head. I recently got serious about the refit.

Here is what she looked like right after the fire and stock photo of what she looked like new.

[FBJR]

Yep it is about 6 years later since the fire and here are a couple pics of her cleaned up some and painted.

The paint is from Ace Hardware, their "Rust Stop" paint that I had matched to the original color. Got a quart and 2 spray cans.

Letting it dry for a few days so I can mount the head. I doubt this will be a fast project ( I have to many) and I need to refit all the electronics and ad a DRO for some free hand milling.

[FBJR]

Her it is with the tape pulled off and a pic of the power head.

There is a little oxidation on the table and the beds, but she moves smooth as silk.

[wizard]

Sorry to hear about your fire!

Nice recovery on the mill though. What caused you to buy a new head?

[LUCKY13]

You can do a lot for the look of the metal surfaces without machining it. I cant remember the exact way to go about it but if you go to the "Practical Machinist" forum, then look under the South Bend Lathe section, and look through the many rebuilds they have documented you can find some very interesting ways to bring the metal back to a much better look without machining it or such.


Ofcourse using electrolysis will work but there are some simple ways such as Lemon juice and/or Molassis which will do a surprizing job. Infact I feel like you could get to look like nothing ever happened.


Its nice your bringing her back, they are pretty good machines and its well worth the time and effort. The fact the axis moves very smooth is a good sign that nothing got warped from the heat.

Keep us posted on the results.


Jess

[SCzEngrgGroup]

You can do a lot for the look of the metal surfaces without machining it. I cant remember the exact way to go about it but if you go to the "Practical Machinist" forum, then look under the South Bend Lathe section, and look through the many rebuilds they have documented you can find some very interesting ways to bring the metal back to a much better look without machining it or such.


Ofcourse using electrolysis will work but there are some simple ways such as Lemon juice and/or Molassis which will do a surprizing job. Infact I feel like you could get to look like nothing ever happened.


Its nice your bringing her back, they are pretty good machines and its well worth the time and effort. The fact the axis moves very smooth is a good sign that nothing got warped from the heat.

Keep us posted on the results.


Jess

Electrolytic rust removal works amazingly well, even on heavy rust, and it's dead-simple to do - a steel plate, a bucket of water, a few spoonfuls of Washing Soda, and a battery charger are all you need.

Regards,
Ray L.

[FBJR]

Sorry to hear about your fire!

Nice recovery on the mill though. What caused you to buy a new head?

The mill was on the floor during the fire. All the electronics (head-drives-wiring) and most plastic melted. Not even the thin metal warped, which is a good sign.

Hopefully the Xylotex setup with motors with motors will workout. Got a great deal on them a few years back.

Here is a pic of the power head I saved as all the hard parts are good.

I will look at the lemon juice application, sure can't hurt!! Would you have a link??

THX

[FBJR]

Finally got a little more done. A lot more cleaning, bed covers installed and some hardware replaced with stainless.

(yes, that is a Emco Maximat Super 11 in the background)

[FBJR]

I am thinking to of getting a chip/splash tray made up since it is not mount yet. I have a mist system and need to keep the stuff of the floor somewhat.

I do plan on keeping it on the chest for now. It is solid with stainless sides and a nice lip on top to keep her from sliding.

I got the head mounted up but found the center off by a couple of degree using the stock taper pin.
Not sure if I should try to use another, but would need to bore it.

[FBJR]

She is starting to look better now but still have to mount the motors and covers. Probably will need some type of cover over the front bed area to.

Thinking about a DRO too, but the ones that don't break the bank look cheap.

Also the Y screw really hangs out. Do you think I should trim it off?