[Fastest1]

Where is the reservoir for the fogbuster? Is it pressurized or are you using a siphon technique?

[high-side]

Hey Graham,
I know this is off subject, but I noticed it looks like you ditched the quill on your machine. Check out what this guy did to eliminate high-rpm vibration: https://www.instagram.com/p/9d4MUwRz...n-by=bens.benz
He's spinning it 10- 13,000 RPM, and it looks & sounds like it's running pretty smooth.

[gcofieldd]

Where is the reservoir for the fogbuster? Is it pressurized or are you using a siphon technique?

Hey Fastest1,

The reservoir is pressurized. Any thoughts would be appreciated

[gcofieldd]

Hey Graham,
I know this is off subject, but I noticed it looks like you ditched the quill on your machine. Check out what this guy did to eliminate high-rpm vibration: https://www.instagram.com/p/9d4MUwRz...n-by=bens.benz
He's spinning it 10- 13,000 RPM, and it looks & sounds like it's running pretty smooth.

Yeah, that is some good stuff he is doing. I will add it to the list

I bought some 2 inch tall 3 inch OD aluminum rounds to raise my mill up. I also bought some 80/20 to frame my enclosure in and make it taller. I have some machining I want to finish before I start tearing everything apart again.

I also bought some check valves for the oil points on the bottom of my mill. this will help equalize the pressure across the system because of their cracking pressure and stop the oil from running out.

[Fastest1]

Hey Fastest1,

The reservoir is pressurized. Any thoughts would be appreciated

In my case, I use a mig tip on the end of a piece of brass tubing. I use a small regulating valve for the air and the air into the coolant reservoir. By fiddling with the 2 valves I could usually get it to spray just a little coolant as a fog.

[deuce217]

Beautiful work, thanks for sharing.

[gcofieldd]

I think I have caught the linear rail bug. I have started working the design. Once I get everything designed up and make all the parts, I am sending the castings out to get machined. Now that I am switching to linear rails, I can upgrade to the larger table for the BF20. I am also going to completely redesign the machine stand and enclosure. More to come, but here is a preliminary pic of the redesign in work:



I will have to figure out what to do with the old stand.

[lcvette]

I redesigned for linear rails also, but ti did a few things different, I have the Y axis stepper in the rear behind the column and added a block of steel to the front of the base to be pinned and bolted and machined to extend the linear rails forward with support. This allows the column to bolt directly to the base and eliminate the stretch flex from extra long bolts and allows for extended Y travel, the major drawback of the G0704 as far as travels are concerned. Doing it this way, the downward cutting force remains over the cat iron base where the spindle centerline is. Whether you do a head spacer now or later its nice to have that extra Y travel n hand for it.

Also, hiwin makes a 15mm pin roller type, its their RGH line of linear rails, I would suggest using them. They cost a few dollars more but add alot of rigidity and will last a lot longer. If no where else, I would definitely use them for the z axis.

Chris

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[gcofieldd]

I redesigned for linear rails also, but ti did a few things different, I have the Y axis stepper in the rear behind the column and added a block of steel to the front of the base to be pinned and bolted and machined to extend the linear rails forward with support. This allows the column to bolt directly to the base and eliminate the stretch flex from extra long bolts and allows for extended Y travel, the major drawback of the G0704 as far as travels are concerned. Doing it this way, the downward cutting force remains over the cat iron base where the spindle centerline is. Whether you do a head spacer now or later its nice to have that extra Y travel n hand for it.

Also, hiwin makes a 15mm pin roller type, its their RGH line of linear rails, I would suggest using them. They cost a few dollars more but add alot of rigidity and will last a lot longer. If no where else, I would definitely use them for the z axis.

Chris

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Good stuff man. I wish you would post a pic of some of that work

I was planning on adding support to the front rails, I just have not worked that part out yet.
I am going to machine a new z-axis carriage that will incorporate enough width to act as a spacer for the head. That will let me upgrade to a 1.5 HP 3 phase motor and keep my pneumatic draw bar.
I am currently planning on keeping the motor in the front—not sure I want to mod the column and base like that.

Graham

[lcvette]

Good stuff man. I wish you would post a pic of some of that work

I was planning on adding support to the front rails, I just have not worked that part out yet.
I am going to machine a new z-axis carriage that will incorporate enough width to act as a spacer for the head. That will let me upgrade to a 1.5 HP 3 phase motor and keep my pneumatic draw bar.
I am currently planning on keeping the motor in the front—not sure I want to mod the column and base like that.

Graham

Do you have flood coolant? My main reason is getting the motor out of the inside of the machine area. There is very little modding to be done to the column and base except drilling a through hole for the 16mm screw to pass through and a couple motor mount drilled and tapped holes for the motor out back. Could even have the mounting pad machined parallel to the front mating surface of the column where it meets the base. I have thoroughly enjoyed the freedom having the motor in the back gives for cleaning chips out of the enclosure, having a washdown and not worrying with the motor, I'm on motor number 3 on the X axis because it's in the enclosure and the koolmist didn't play well with it.

I will see if I can dig up those models, been a while since I was messing with it, i ended up designing a whole custom mill half way through, then a little larger one, then found the big machine I ultimately bought instead alot got left by the way side. But I plan on modding the g0704 to linear rails once the big machine arrives and is up and running.

Will post what I can find, but here is a shot of the column I happened to post on Instagram..



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[gcofieldd]

I am still poking at upgrading my mill to linear rails and have made some progress with the design, so I thought I would post up a quick pick of what I am planning. I am going to replace the head of the mill with a chunk of aluminum and use the 10K Tormach spindle. I am also going to use a 1.5 HP spindle motor. It should be a good combination. I got a quote for $1050.00 for the new stand. The quote includes everything in the pic, i.e. the stand and drip pan, so planning on that regardless.

Here is the pic:

[atomarc]

Do you have flood coolant? My main reason is getting the motor out of the inside of the machine area. There is very little modding to be done to the column and base except drilling a through hole for the 16mm screw to pass through and a couple motor mount drilled and tapped holes for the motor out back. Could even have the mounting pad machined parallel to the front mating surface of the column where it meets the base. I have thoroughly enjoyed the freedom having the motor in the back gives for cleaning chips out of the enclosure, having a washdown and not worrying with the motor, I'm on motor number 3 on the X axis because it's in the enclosure and the koolmist didn't play well with it.

I will see if I can dig up those models, been a while since I was messing with it, i ended up designing a whole custom mill half way through, then a little larger one, then found the big machine I ultimately bought instead alot got left by the way side. But I plan on modding the g0704 to linear rails once the big machine arrives and is up and running.

Will post what I can find, but here is a shot of the column I happened to post on Instagram..



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That draw bar pneumatic cylinder is pretty slick looking...but it's a CAD drawing. With your 56C motor, have you actually figured out how that cylinder will supply the 2500 lbs of oink for your draw bar. I see 6 little holes in the side of the cylinder...are these tapped holes for air..and are there 6 more on the other side we can't see. I'm building a cylinder for my G0704 right now and would love to get one as small and sleek as yours...but sure can't get the math to add up to such a short, compact cylinder.

I'm using a IEC motor and even with a 2" spindle to column spacer I only have room for a 3 1/2", 4 stage cylinder. That means the cylinder is just about the same height as the motor. Yours looks compact...how did you do it?

Thanks,
Stuart

[gcofieldd]

That draw bar pneumatic cylinder is pretty slick looking...but it's a CAD drawing. With your 56C motor, have you actually figured out how that cylinder will supply the 2500 lbs of oink for your draw bar. I see 6 little holes in the side of the cylinder...are these tapped holes for air..and are there 6 more on the other side we can't see. I'm building a cylinder for my G0704 right now and would love to get one as small and sleek as yours...but sure can't get the math to add up to such a short, compact cylinder.

I'm using a IEC motor and even with a 2" spindle to column spacer I only have room for a 3 1/2", 4 stage cylinder. That means the cylinder is just about the same height as the motor. Yours looks compact...how did you do it?

Thanks,
Stuart

Hey Stuart, that is lcvette's setup. It looks like he is using the same/similar air cylinder as Tormach, so you could probably look there for more information.

[neilw20]

With only 1KW spindle power, 1200 lbs should be enough for the drawbar.
Now calculate how much air pressure you need, and consider using a pressure booster.

I made enough pressure, but used 3 cylinders in parallel to achieve 1200 lbs.
Attachment 347456 Attachment 347458 Attachment 347460

Booster not required for 3 cylinder version, but it was for the earlier 2 cylinder version. Top arms unlinked just for photo.
Attachment 347462

https://www.festo.com/wiki/en/Pressure_boosters
I fabricated one from small cylinders, and a collection of tees, and one way valves.

[lcvette]

That draw bar pneumatic cylinder is pretty slick looking...but it's a CAD drawing. With your 56C motor, have you actually figured out how that cylinder will supply the 2500 lbs of oink for your draw bar. I see 6 little holes in the side of the cylinder...are these tapped holes for air..and are there 6 more on the other side we can't see. I'm building a cylinder for my G0704 right now and would love to get one as small and sleek as yours...but sure can't get the math to add up to such a short, compact cylinder.

I'm using a IEC motor and even with a 2" spindle to column spacer I only have room for a 3 1/2", 4 stage cylinder. That means the cylinder is just about the same height as the motor. Yours looks compact...how did you do it?

Thanks,
Stuart

It's a triple piston 80mm cylinder with a combined piston surface area of 22.5 in², multiply that time your air pressure supply to see total pressure generated. In my case I have a 150psi air system giving me 3375lbs to compress the bellville stack.

And this system is being used I just Incorporated it into the solidworks drawing for proper clearances.

Chris





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[neilw20]

Ah! Chris,
A triple cylinder. That will work just fine.
By 3 cylinder build was just stuff from my (I am a magpie) junk box.
Neil

This disk spring calculator works very well, and allows correct selection so that the fatigue life of disks are not exceeded.
I have seen and repaired other systems, with broken washers, and decided to solve the broken washer problem, properly (IMHO)

Attachment 347784

[lcvette]

Ah! Chris,
A triple cylinder. That will work just fine.
By 3 cylinder build was just stuff from my (I am a magpie) junk box.
Neil

This disk spring calculator works very well, and allows correct selection so that the fatigue life of disks are not exceeded.
I have seen and repaired other systems, with broken washers, and decided to solve the broken washer problem, properly (IMHO)

Attachment 347784

Yup it's been working fine for 5 years..Lol I get tool pull out if I'm too aggressive with higher helix endmills but it is from deflection I think occurring in the mill which starts the tool bouncing. Usually if I hear a slight bit of chatter I know that the tool will be pulled down slightly directly following said chatter. Mind you this is most frequent with 3/4" doc and 20% stepover with 3/8" or larger endmills with a high helix angle ~40°+.



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[gcofieldd]

So, I had started to talk myself out of upgrading to linear rails and just enjoying the machine as is, but over the weekend I sent an email to Precision Matthews to see if they would sell me a PM-25MV table and lo and behold they had one of the old-style tables laying around…damn it.

I was going with the PM-25MV table because ArizonaVideo99 had mentioned in one of his YouTube videos that they were nicer/thicker than the Grizzly tables. The Grizzly tables are thin enough that I was worried about machining off the dovetail ways and didn’t want to spend the money to make one from scratch.

Looks like things are back on…here is the table (new in the box):



I am going to start by making mounts for my new motor (the same one russtuff is using). I am anticipating my bldc motor will burn up soon. After the motor mounts, I will start making the parts for the linear rail upgrade. While I am at it I am going to make a few conversion kits for the G0704/BF20 to help cover some of the cost. I am just going to make the stepper and ball screw mounts and sell the kits on ebay. I am not going to get into providing ball screws. I like the ones from automation4less, but they cost a little more. I will post some pics of everything once it is designed up. It will be based off the parts I designed for my conversion, but incorporate my lessons learned. The kits will be belt drive or coupler driven. I prefer belt drive. The belt drive axis on my machine runs smoother than the coupled axis I have. I am also going to include sheet metal stepper covers and maybe the y-axis way cover. Everything will be black anodized.

[gcofieldd]

I took some time yesterday to poke at the mill. I added check valves on all of the oil lines. They have a 0.5 psi cracking pressure, so it evened out the oil distribution across the lines. I would still recommend metering valves to anyone doing a system like mine. I also spent some time investigating the grinding sound coming from the x-axis. I thought it was the ball screw rubbing on the saddle, but it was actually the gib strip rubbing on the underside of my table. It was obvious after seeing the worn spot on top of the gib. I haven't fixed it and still thinking about what to do. here are pictures of the update to the oiling system:

Before



After

[Foreigner76]

Where did you buy these fittings with valves? I can not find them on e-Bay.