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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14

    Joe's 5-axis design feedback

    Hey all, I've had a Joe's 2006 R2 machine for a bit, but want to mod it for 5 axes. I've mocked up a design that could mount onto the Z-axis plate.

    I've used bearings from VXB, mounting hubs from Pololu.com, and some standard 180oz/in NEMA 23 motors.

    This is my first attempt at Solidworks and a 5axis design, do you think this would work?

    (I can't seem to upload any files, so here's a google drive link, just DL the file(s) and open)

    EASM File
    https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bwa...kFlMnpvQ3dCMEE

    Solidworks Files
    https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bwa...VFPM2FrTzE4OVU

    -s3r4ph

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Can you just post some images?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Sure, here's some photos which may help understand the design.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5_axis_complete_assembly.jpg   5_axis_complete_assembly_front.jpg   5_axis_complete_assembly_right.jpg   5_axis_complete_assembly_back.jpg  

    5_axis_complete_assembly_bottom.jpg  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    What material do you plan on using to build it?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    I didn't really think too much about it, but had pretty much figured 3/4" HDPE would be the best, for price and because some holes need threaded.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I would think that it'll flex like crazy with those long thin sides.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    I thought about that, it's a trade off with weight and rigidity. I will probably decrease the hole size, or remove them completely. I dont really have a good feel for how heavy the sides would be (10" x 5" x 3/4")

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    Never trade rigidity for weight.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    you may find it might have to much flex in that camera gimble type design, you would need to Box it in to make it more rigid. This design is used allot in areal photography.
    Thanks,
    Joe

    www.joescnc.com
    joecnc2006 at yahoo

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Joe/Ger, thanks for the feedback. I've been messing around and refining the design a bit.

    Boxing in the router might be a good idea, I wonder if I can put an arch-type front and back panel to enhance rigidity, but still allow the router to pass through those sides.

    I've messed around with my design a bit today, I'll box in the router and post an update.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5_axis_complete_assembly_refined.jpg  

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    your router mount need to be two plates spaced or a single plate having a minimum thickness of 2" to avoid the router from having angular movement in the moumt.
    Thanks,
    Joe

    www.joescnc.com
    joecnc2006 at yahoo

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Here's a modified design with an additional router mounting clamp, and some brackets on the front and back of the vertical axis.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5_axis_complete_assembly_refine_2.jpg  

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    OK, I think I've gotten as far as I can get without building the part. I've made some adjustment to the edges, to give it better surfaces for gluing if necessary (for MDF), as well as keeping bolt holes (for HDPE).

    It's currently designed for a Bosch Router, but if anyone wants to give it a try I am more than willing to provide all files and schematics, just ask and keep me in the loop on your build.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 5_axis_complete_assembly.jpg  

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Looks like you have direct drive on the motor, What do you plan for the step down for better resolution.
    Thanks,
    Joe

    www.joescnc.com
    joecnc2006 at yahoo

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Honestly, I havent thought that far ahead. With the current design, for better resolution a gearing ratio might be the easiest thing to implement, with a small gear attached to the motor shaft, and a larger gear to the axis of rotation.

    Have a better idea? I'm not thrilled about setting up a belt/chain setup, but I've seen some designs which use it, and it might be better for CG moments.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Use a planetary gear attachment to your stepper. Then you do not need to change the design.
    Thanks,
    Joe

    www.joescnc.com
    joecnc2006 at yahoo

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Good idea , think a 5:1 would be enough? I'm planning around a 1.8deg / step motor. 5:1 puts me at a 0.36deg/step or 1000steps per rotation.

    I can also find a 10:1, both from Kelinginc.net, but for about $50 more.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    690
    Quote Originally Posted by s3r4ph View Post
    Good idea , think a 5:1 would be enough? I'm planning around a 1.8deg / step motor. 5:1 puts me at a 0.36deg/step or 1000steps per rotation.

    I can also find a 10:1, both from Kelinginc.net, but for about $50 more.
    I have absolutely no experience with rotary axes, but if I were in your place, I might as well go with even more reduction if possible. Let's talk mm instead of degrees, and suppose the router rotation in either the 4th or 5th axis makes a 200mm diameter circle (projection of the tip of the bit), then such circle diameter is ~2 x 3.14 x 100 = 628mm. For a 10:1 ratio and a 200 steps/rev motor it would be 628/2000 = 0.314mm/step along the perimeter (let's not consider microstepping as it's not absolute). I assume 400 steps/rev motors would help, too. Now, I don't know how much do cutting strategies and combined movement of all axis compensate for a certain resolution, maybe it can be enough resolution considering a 5 axis machine with a ball nose bit can attack the material in different ways?. I guess this kind of compensation's effectiveness must be proportional to the radius of the ball nose bit.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    14
    Nice math there, I haven't thought about it from that angle.

    I may go with these, they're pretty inexpensive, and a .02deg step is about as good as I have been able to find while staying under $250/motor.

    Phidgets Inc. - 3319_0 - 42BYGH40(M)-160-4A NEMA 17 Bipolar 99.51:1 Planetary Gearbox Stepper

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