Great read on these, very interesting... +1 for that.
Great read on these, very interesting... +1 for that.
Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver
Haven't had much time to put into the machine lately plus its over 105* here in Phoenix so my motivation has been lacking on top of that. Anyways, I purchased plans from Hoss to help speed this process up a bit. Yesterday I started assembling a spreadsheet for all of the components that need ordered. That got me to my first of whats sure to be many crossroads, belt drive or direct drive the 3 axis using steppers. I like the packaging options that a belt drive offers with the drawback of added expense and complexity. From my understanding I would still keep the pulleys 1:1. I would also assume the belts stretch and wear out eventually but are there other drawbacks that I am missing? Most of the builds I see use direct drive so there has to be a obvious reason that I seam to be overlooking. Thanks
Almost a month later and I'm finally happy with the Y axis movement. I ended up just lapping it in until all the tight spots were gone. The surfaces look pretty scary but the movement is smooth and consistent over the whole travel.
Bottom of the saddle
Saddle dovetail
Y gib
Base dovetail side
Base gib side
That's it for today, I had to stop when the garage hit 105*. Next up is the X, a quick check showed that the center of the table is quite loose while the ends are very tight. So there will be some work there as well. Maybe some marking fluid to highlight the high/low points next time too. I have about decided on an electronics setup and will post it up for everyone's review. Thanks for looking...:cheers:
Good from a far but far from good My little 7x is great at making RC sized parts but not so much when you chuck up 3" stock. The pulleys have flaws but I think they will work just need to do the drilling and tapping. They are based of the Hoss plans but with a few little tweaks. Christmas started last week; all new bearings, oversized ballscrew balls, 3x 570oz steppers, 1x 906oz stepper, 3x free upgrade to 8056D, 1x 8070D, connectors and wire. Roton ballscrews and nuts will be here Monday. Still finalizing the rest of the electronics order from cnc4pc and I'll be ordering that around mid week. I have officially blown my budget.:rainfro:
Pulleys looking good especially for a 7x lathe.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Nice work on the pulleys, since i am going with the HOSS conversation as well i will need to lathe some of these pulleys as well, I don have one so my friend offered me to do it. He has a nice multi axis Mori Seiki.
If anyone need a pair please let me know, would have no problem to run multiple parts...
What modifications did you do to yours?
Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver
I have not decided yet if I should go with or without the Quill, is it good idea to keep the quill on a CNC machine, if there are no problems with leaving the Quill, then no problem in doing so... Also what material?
Only item i want to add is a ATC since it bought the tormach TTS already, can i keep the quill with that. Also i am doing the threadmill motor conversation, you have your stock motor?
Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver
I'm current have just the stock motor. Plan to go to Tormach TTS at some point. Probably manually draw bar mod till I can do a ATC and power draw bar. Not sure what material. I can look on the DVD and see what he listed.Originally Posted by hive8
I don't think there is any issue with keeping the quill, but I'll defer to Hoss's wisdom and experience.
Thanks, Connor.
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Hive (Anton), you can make a pair of pulleys for connor as he bought a set of plans but you do NOT have permission to profit from my design and make parts from my designs from anyone that asks.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
I've kept my quill and it's useful to me. Power tapping without heads or TC chucks. I also do coordinate drilling sometimes when I don't want to do MDI commands for the drilling. Even if you do a conversion that doesn't use the quill it's all still in there so if you are willing to do the work to keep the quill I can't see it hurting you in any meaningful way.
CNC: Making incorrect parts and breaking stuff, faster and with greater precision.
HOSS i will not profit from making parts this was a gesture to help here... I just ask as a favor since my friend is doing it for me i have to pay for materials, it not the same as connor would come to me and ask to produce the parts, since my friend is doing a run, its easier for my friend to produce multiples as he only needs to set the tools on the lathe once.
Since conner has the plans and i bought the plans too i hope that it is not a problem... I am posting it here official not over PMs.
Since i don't have my own lathe its hard for me to make these parts by myself i am pretty sure others are in the same boat.
Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver
Hive 8 - G0704 CNC Mill - 20 inch Telescope - High Resolution 3D Printer - Lasersaur 100W CO2 Cutter / Engraver
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Thanks guys. I decided to strip the head down to bare bones, turns out they were the easiest pulleys to make with my current tooling anyway. For starters I'll be running the stock motor with the stock speed control board integrated into the C32/ESS. That's the plan at least.
I'll start by saying that electronics are not my thing which will be pretty obvious with the following questions. So I have been killing myself trying to figure out how I will wire the stock ESC board into the C32. I have identified the role of all wires in/out on the ESC board and have it isolated from the rest of the oem G0704 electronics. When hooked up straight to 120VAC I get CCW motor rotation with the speed adjustable via the pot so no issues there. I would like to automate the F/R switching through the C32 board as well. There are two relays on the C32 that coordinate to two pins through mach. The manual for the C32 says you can control all aspects of the spindle operation RPM, CCW, CW and OFF but does not show the actual wiring. Below is a chart of pin states, relay states and operation states taken from the C32 manual. Using this chart I came up with the below wiring diagram. The only problem I see is that when relays #1 and #2 both go NC I will be shorting the ESC. That is unless mach has already turned the control voltage off. Seems pretty risky to trust in that. My other though is that I need one relay to control a DPDT relay to make the signal switching happen. Also the ESC is rated 0-90VDC 13.5ADC, so I'm not so sure the the relays are up to the task anyways. Any and all feedback will be greatly appreciated.:drowning:
The relays on the C32 and other Break out boards and speed control boards are LOGIC ONLY and are not intended to handle the load of the motor direct. You have a few options. Option 1, find a speed controller that has provisions for logic forward/brake/reverse built into it. Option 2) Find a relay that can handle the voltage and amps of the motor, keep in mind, you might need to over rate the contacts on the relay because motor start-up is way more than the sustained current on the motor, and you might need a Power Resistor for when you shunt the load for braking. Option 3) Build/Buy a H-Bridge circuit. It's basically a Solid State version of the relay. Options 2 would use the C32 relay for CW/CCW logic switching (probably 12v) Option 3 could use the relay, or be driven direct from the logic pin tied to the relay. Your choice.
Unless your planning on doing Rigid tapping, no real need to automate reverse.
Thanks, Connor
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Thanks for the info Connor. I want to stick with the stock motor/ESC for now so maybe it would be best to just stick with the stock F/R switch until I upgraded the motor. Odds are that they would require different components anyways. Tapping would also be a nice feature to have but can realistically wait for down the road as well.