586,900 active members*
2,655 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > What spray for MDF to make it non-porus?
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    205

    What spray for MDF to make it non-porus?

    I want to make a "one of" vacuum clamp made from MDF. I don't want to use any of my HDPE material for this up coming job

    I read somewhere that some type of spray or coating can be used on the MDF to make it non-porus.

    It's different from simply painting both sides with latex paint.

    Anybody know what I'm talking about?

    Thanks in advance,
    Rod
    San Francisco

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1806
    Over on the "My newest desktop" thread, Microcarve recommends

    Zinsser B-I-N Shellac White Interior and Spot Exterior Primer and Sealer

    for sealing his MDF framed routers. Haven't tried it myself, but worth a shot and can be had at places like Home Depot
    Art
    AKA Country Bubba (Older Than Dirt)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663
    Thin yellow wood glue with a little water, 3 parts glue 1 part water.

    Brush on a thin coat; wipe off any runs and recoat.

    If possible apply at end of the day and let it dry overnight. Do it in warm, not hot, space. No fans.

    You might have to apply another coat, or as an alternative a coat of primer [not latex or water based primer].

    Lightly
    sand with a very very fine grit or a piece of worn out sandpaper. I have heard of people using burlap.

    Then paint, better several VERY light coats..mist on rather than trying to cover the MDF.

    Be sure to finish both sides and pay very close attention to where the sides and top/bottom meet. Maybe even round them over so there are no sharp edges.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    29
    I'd use an outdoor enamel like Rustoleum.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    65
    Your better off to use a double sided laminated MDF, and just seal the ends the last vacuum clamp table I made took so much paint to seal it for vacuum , it was ridiculas.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    My preference would be epoxy, and even that would require at least two coats.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    313

    Lightbulb Instead of a spray

    I suggest using epoxy, just brush it on and wait for it to dry. It will not have much flex but it will add strenght and it will make things waterproof.
    Just make sure to use lots of the epoxy.

    Cheers,

    rob from what is a cnc

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    663

    This is brilliant

    Quote Originally Posted by Markwind View Post
    Your better off to use a double sided laminated MDF, and just seal the ends the last vacuum clamp table I made took so much paint to seal it for vacuum , it was ridiculas.
    This is an absolutely brilliant idea.

    You could seal the edges with the pre-glued iron-on edge tape made especially for melamine [which is the name I know double sided laminated MDF by].

    PS

    If you'd like a bunch of large cut-offs of melamine .. come on over .. I got lots I have been saving .. for some reason that escapes me!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    313
    you can find a contact cement that will seal it, and it comes in a can. :rainfro:
    The only problem I see is it curing, it needs another face to mate with. It is a latex material.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    205
    Thanks to everybody who chimed in so far. Lots of great ideas. I will give all of them a try a make a attempt to report back.

    Rod

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    735
    I coat mine with Polyurathane but that is more to give it some abrasion protection then anything else. Probably end up coating 4-5 times but it soakes in big time.

    I also don't really do vacume hold downs so not sure if it makes it non porus enough.

    b.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    I brush on two coats of polyurethane, letting each coat dry overnight. Then the spray polyurethane will not soak in so much. It takes 5 to 6 coats of spray to equal 3 coats of polyurethane from the brush-on cans, which is less expensive.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    176
    Yeah, MDF is like a sponge. I've had good results with epoxy laminating resin (west system) You can brush it on , squeegee or use cotton waste/cloth as long as its clean. A couple of coats with a sand inbetween seems to work well. I roll the edges with a convex cutter on the router table. The top and bottom of MDF is much more compressed than the core and that makes the edge brittle if it's just a 90deg cut.

Similar Threads

  1. CNC Spray painting
    By ynneb in forum Hobby Discussion
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 04-05-2023, 11:52 AM
  2. SPRAY GREASE
    By nobby46 in forum DIY CNC Router Table Machines
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-31-2011, 09:14 AM
  3. diy spray etcher
    By copper3416 in forum Uncategorised MetalWorking Machines
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-22-2009, 12:40 PM
  4. metallizing - arc spray or d-gun DIY
    By jonz in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-28-2008, 02:50 AM
  5. Laser Spray
    By PaioX in forum Laser Engraving / Cutting Machine General Topics
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-01-2007, 03:33 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •